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Transferbox oil at 190000km


Thys

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I did the big oil service today, all went well until I drained the transfer box. This is the box that sterts whinning at 80 km/h. The oil that came out was black, thick and sludgy, plus the drain plug had a good collection of metal flakes, as per the attached picture. I took the sludge, metal flakes off the magnet point, and smeared it on a piece of paper, no hard solid metal, just "glitter".

Is this the beginning of the end of my Disco's transfer box?

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We change the transfer box oil on every service, it gets very hot and burnt here. The LR recommendation is 40k kms. If you are worried we do Redline fully synthetic 75w90 gear oil, but it is expensive at ~R140/l but should never need to be changed as it is very heat resistant.

I have an extension fitted to my sump, unfortunately we can't get any more. That helps by increasing the volume of oil by about a litre.

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We change the transfer box oil on every service, it gets very hot and burnt here. The LR recommendation is 40k kms. If you are worried we do Redline fully synthetic 75w90 gear oil, but it is expensive at ~R140/l but should never need to be changed as it is very heat resistant.

I have an extension fitted to my sump, unfortunately we can't get any more. That helps by increasing the volume of oil by about a litre.

Thanks Jim, Ally V8 and bobtail4x4, I will schedule the oil changes at 20 000 km, and then revert to the 40 000 km schedule.

Cheers

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Sorry Thys, I meant to say that I think that 40k kms is too long with the heat we get here. The diff oils look fine at that distance but the xfer box oil does not, as you have found out. Standard GL5 EP90 is pretty cheap as well.

Thanks Jim,

I will do the 10 000km check, and then a 20 000km stint. I use Caltex Turban GL5 EX . I do not tow or do any serious off roading/wading, so maybe the TC works a little less harder, and the autobox should also contribute to less "shocks" on the drive train?

Cheers

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It's the heat under there that kills the oil. I must say that the LT230 is a very strong box, and the only ones we have had to replace or overhaul have been those where the oil eventually leaked out or the sump plug dropped out. The problem with the sump plugs it that they mustn't be overtightened as they will break where the hole for the magnet has been drilled, or they will strip the alloy threads in the box. They should really have some form of positive locking like a lock tab or wire to be on the safe side.

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