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Rear crankshaft seal


roachy

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Hi guys, i'm attempting a crankshaft oil seal in a 2.25 petrol series 2 and i thought it would be the same as the one in my 90 but it's not. can you give me some pointers?

2n8yous.jpg

Any advice greatly appreciated.

the crankshaft-seal of engines which have got 3 or 5 main-bearings are different. the older 3 main-bearing crankshaft has got a "slip-over" seal (there is a cut through the oilseal) and the 5 main-bearing crankshaft is a "push-on" seal 8 (no cut), like in all later ( i think past 1980) engines... make a pic of the side of your engine, so we may identify a 3 or 5-main bearing engine!

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well the one in my defender was a pull out push in job so i assume this is the other type, 3 bearing one. do i need to drop the crank to change it? if so could anyone tell me the torque settings for the main bolts?

Thanks

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well the one in my defender was a pull out push in job so i assume this is the other type, 3 bearing one. do i need to drop the crank to change it? if so could anyone tell me the torque settings for the main bolts?

Thanks

you only have to remove the last bearing-block of the crankshaft, located next to flywheelhousing. don´t you have a workshop-handbook for series vehicles? it is available in the internet without problems and without having to pay for it... i´ll send you a pm with a link for that...

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Your rear seal is the split type. You have to remove the gearbox, clutch, flywheel, flywheel housing, sump, and crankshaft rear main bearing cap.

The split in the seal has to be fitted so that it's in the 12-o-clock position, then the tensioning spring has to go in once the seal is in place. To say that this is a pig of a job is a gross understatement - you have to work in a gap that's about 15mm. I would take the engine out, drain the oil, then turn the engine upside-down to do it.

Les.

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Your rear seal is the split type. You have to remove the gearbox, clutch, flywheel, flywheel housing, sump, and crankshaft rear main bearing cap.

The split in the seal has to be fitted so that it's in the 12-o-clock position, then the tensioning spring has to go in once the seal is in place. To say that this is a pig of a job is a gross understatement - you have to work in a gap that's about 15mm. I would take the engine out, drain the oil, then turn the engine upside-down to do it.

Les.

how do you know this? the fact that his landy is a series 2 isn´t a good hint for the engine-type (3 v 5 main-bearing)that is currently installed... it was maybe updated/changed in the past (or is the kind of flywheelhousing pictured above a hint???)...

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