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cooper

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I haven't done it, but I can only imagine that in theory, at least, it's much the same as any other gearbox...

Remove prop shafts

Remove the hi/lo linkage

Separate the T/box from the gearbox

undo the T/box mountings

Remove T/box

Undo the bolts and nuts connecting the bellhousing to the flywheel housing (you may need to remove the engine mounts and drop the back of the engine down to get access to the top ones)

Remove the selector and hi/lo selector knobs/handles

Remove the gearbox mountings

Remove gearbox.

Having experienced trying to get a gearbox and transfer box out of a 90 in one lump, I wouldn't recommend it. Definitely separate the two as not only is it lighter, it gives you more room to manouvre. You will need about 5 hands in places, but it's do-able on your own with a well positioned jack/transmission stand.

It might also be possible to remove the gearbox before removing the bellhousing to give you a bit more space to get at the bellhousing nuts/bolts, but I think you will have to put it all back in together to get everything aligned correctly...

Hope that's of some help...

Adrian

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As above, not rocket science if you have the facilities. A couple of additional points to above are (1) speedo cable, (2) for an auto box you also have a kickdown cable to disconnect and (3) before you try to remove the box, or even undo the bellhousing bolts, remove the half moon shaped aly plate where the gearbox joins the engine (behind the sump) and remove the 4 bolts holding the torque convertor to the flex plate. It is good practice to mark the flex plate and torque convertor so they join together in the same place.

Finally make sure you have undone all the bellhousing bolts as some are in tricky places. If it doesn't seperate reasonably easily check again!!

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One further point on the torque converter.

As said remove the cover and then release the four bolts which involves turning the flexplate (flywheel) to get at each of them.

The torque converter engages on a spigot in the middle of the flexplate and can be a tight fit so when the bolts are out get a screwdriver between and force the torque converter away fro the flexplate until it is free from the spigot.

Reason.

You MUST NOT let the torque converter come away from the 'box as in doing so it can damage the pump inside the 'box.

As you are changing the 'box it will have to come out later but in far more controlled conditions and held straight whilst doing so.

The TC will need to be assembled carefully to your replacement 'box before fitting it.

A question.

On what are you basing your assumption that the 'box is dead?

I only ask as there are many quirks with autos some of which can be fixed by removing the pan and making repairs or adjustments from there.

Steve

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One further point on the torque converter.

As said remove the cover and then release the four bolts which involves turning the flexplate (flywheel) to get at each of them.

The torque converter engages on a spigot in the middle of the flexplate and can be a tight fit so when the bolts are out get a screwdriver between and force the torque converter away fro the flexplate until it is free from the spigot.

Reason.

You MUST NOT let the torque converter come away from the 'box as in doing so it can damage the pump inside the 'box.

As you are changing the 'box it will have to come out later but in far more controlled conditions and held straight whilst doing so.

The TC will need to be assembled carefully to your replacement 'box before fitting it.

A question.

On what are you basing your assumption that the 'box is dead?

I only ask as there are many quirks with autos some of which can be fixed by removing the pan and making repairs or adjustments from there.

Steve

due to the fact i have no forwards or reverse gears in either hi or low range box it feels like its holding but theres no drive

any clues?

Cheers

Shaun

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