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Series III new fuse box


CaptainBlue

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I am now paying the price for going for a cheap outfit restoring my series III petrol. They got the wiring all wrong. Suffered from overheating fuses and so on, I decided to try and put it right according to the 'book'.

Something baffled me from the start and I wonder if you have any ideas.

I've find the live feed, which i think should be brown. Mine is red and brown (the loom would have been extended from the rh drive conversion to lh drive). This live feed goes on T1 with a purple wire for the headlamp flash on T2.

Looking a the wiring diagram there should be one brown wire from T1 to the Sockets and one brown wire to the ignition switch. When I put the first brown on T1 it sparked and started to overheat. Same thing with the 2nd brown wire. After this the headlamp flash does not work although there is still live feed going through the fuse to T2. After finding a white wire pesumably from the ignition and attaching it to T7, the brown wires attached to T1 don't spark and overheat anymore.

What have I done or haven't done :unsure:

Mark

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry, no photos but frankly I'd say your best bet is to replace the glass fuses with a blade fuse setup - they are very cheap, much more reliable, and can handle more than 17A which means you can actually put a fuse in every circuit (LR don't fuse the headlights because the glass fuses overheat :o ).

A 6 or 8-way blade fuse holder and a handfull of spade terminals should cost you 20 euros or so.

If you get stuck I can scan the stock wiring diagram in for you.

Be aware some european car manufacturers use brown wire as ground, if the people who restored your car have done this it may explain the sparks when you connected the brown wire to 12v :o generally if something sparks when you connect it, it's a good idea to disconnect it and work out what it's doing rather than just plug it in and get the marshmallows on sticks out :rolleyes:

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Mate,

you've hit the nail on the head :P Someone has fused my headlights, that's why the fuse and holder is getting hot. I thought it was a fault somewhere with the lights wiring. I've got the wiring diagrams and sure I've seen that the lights are permanently wired in to the live feed from the battery. Just didn't think it would make the fuse hot :lol:

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