ghost111 Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 1995 Disco Series 1 Automatic I did some work today... and took out my stuck lever for 4WD/DIFF LOCK. I know have direct access to the 13mm bolt/nut on top of the transfer case. I find that there are 3 distinct positions that the bolt/nut will lock in. After trying all three the light on my dash will not go on, and jacking up one front wheel and spinning it still works in all three positions (shouldn''''t move at all) Any ideas? I also am trying to get the solenoid out of my transfer box that keeps me from engaging 4WD while not in neutral (it has failed) and after removing the 4 bolts holding it in it is still incredibly stuck... I have sprayed it down with all I know of and there is no room to get any sort of leverage, anyone who has done this before have any helpful hints? Thanks for the responses ahead of time ALSO: does the car drive noticeably different when differentials are locked? Should I hear/feel the locking actually happen? How does the car know the diff is locked (is there a sensor in the transfer box, or is it somewhere else? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 There should be only 2 positions, locked and unlocked, nothing in between. If you are positive that difflock doesn't engage then you need to look under the 7 bolt T shaped cover on the front housing and see what going on (check page 34 of this document). Might be the selector shaft, yoke, pin .... If you didn't manage to remove the interlock solenoid yet, get back and I'll post the procedure. Is your vehicle a Jap reimport? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghost111 Posted December 8, 2008 Author Share Posted December 8, 2008 I ended up getting the cars wheels really spinning on the snow and was able to get the diff to lock, now it does it as it is supposed to normally. I haven't managed to remove the interlock solenoid yet, as the cover is so coroded that it might as well be bolted on, and I have no real way of getting to it, because of it's position on the transfer box... I know how to do it, just cannot because of the corrosion, so now i just spray with carb cleaner, panther tiddle, etc. every time i get the chance to try and free it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Interlock solenoid? As I have never seen one, please tell me how to remove it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 You've seen such a thing but fitted somewhere else. Does this pic ring any bell? The removal is simple in theory: ghost111, the only thing it doesn't say above is that the cover is 'glued' with RTV sealant. Heat up the cover with a hot air gun (you can go up to 150C) and it will come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 It's NAS and Jap spec Disco automatics that have an interlock on the transfer box. The selector must be in Neutral before the hi/lo can be moved. Also with these vehicles the selector cannot be moved from Park unless the ignition switch is in position ll and the foot brake is depressed. And you cannot remove the ignition key unless the auto selectot is in Park. RAVE has lots of info on this system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghost111 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 ghost111, the only thing it doesn't say above is that the cover is 'glued' with RTV sealant. Heat up the cover with a hot air gun (you can go up to 150C) and it will come off. thanks... i'll try that when i get home and post an update, I thought the rubbery material was a gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghost111 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 thanks... i'll try that when i get home and post an update, I thought the rubbery material was a gasket took a blowtorch to the thing, and got it off... took out the solenoid and ran twelve volts across it, works fine... tested wires going to it for 12v... no dice don't you love discoveries and their electric issues? at least now I won't have to worry about it! I really appreciate you giving me the tip of the glue, I would have never though of it, as it seems like such a stupid thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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