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426 Kph!!!


GL88

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I've been playing with my new Nanocom so now I've got a whole load of faults to worry about that I never had before. But none has returned since being cleared which has left me bothered by a 'non-fault'. According to the ABS ECU the left hand rear wheel says I'm doing 426 and a bit Kph even when I'm standing still when the others say 1.7 Kph which I assume to be minimum speed that that ABS will work at (else you'd never be able to stop). The Nanocom isn't showing any faults (!) and everything seems to work as it should (obviously it is a little difficult to provoke a locked rear left hand wheel to see but a big stand on the brakes on a wet road pulls up straight with ABS working).

I've had the sensor out and all seems fine. And I've separated the plugs to the main wiring loom and WD40'd them but no change so far. Any thoughts? When I've a bit more time I'll swap the plugs round to see if the right rear starts reading fast which will narrow things and I can bung a meter on them both to see if they are different.

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I've been playing with my new Nanocom so now I've got a whole load of faults to worry about that I never had before. But none has returned since being cleared which has left me bothered by a 'non-fault'. According to the ABS ECU the left hand rear wheel says I'm doing 426 and a bit Kph even when I'm standing still when the others say 1.7 Kph which I assume to be minimum speed that that ABS will work at (else you'd never be able to stop). The Nanocom isn't showing any faults (!) and everything seems to work as it should (obviously it is a little difficult to provoke a locked rear left hand wheel to see but a big stand on the brakes on a wet road pulls up straight with ABS working).

I've had the sensor out and all seems fine. And I've separated the plugs to the main wiring loom and WD40'd them but no change so far. Any thoughts? When I've a bit more time I'll swap the plugs round to see if the right rear starts reading fast which will narrow things and I can bung a meter on them both to see if they are different.

Hi GL88,

I have the same fault. When the car standing still Nanocom said "Rear Left Wheel Speed 4xx rpm". TC light is on all the time but the ABS is working fine (I can test it very good at the moment because we have some snow). When the weather is better I will check the sensor. Hope that he is not buggered.

cheers

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I don't understand why my TC light isn't on (or trying to stop the wheel spinning) but the TC works fine (not sure if on all 4 wheels though). I still haven't found the time to get out there and swap them from side to side but at least have the test leads I need now as they have handed plugs so can't just be swapped over.

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I have exactly the same error. My ABS is working, but the TC does not. I get no lights on the dash at all, not even when the ignition is first turned on. I get 400+kph reading on the LH rear sensor. I have sort of assumed that the ABS ECU is dead, but like you I have intended to try swapping LH and RH to see if the fault moves. So far I have not had time.....let me know!! (please)

Chris

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Yesterday I had some time to explore further.

If it is the sensors then crossing the plugs over should move the high reading to the other wheel - but it doesn't it remains the left rear. Moreover neither the dashboard lights nor the Nanocom show a fault. On turning on the ABS light comes on, goes out, comes on again and only finally goes out once I've driven over 5mph (all as per the book). The TC light comes on and goes out once started. TC kicks in if I'm lead footed and the light comes on then. ABS works if a wheel locks.

The only thing I can't check is whether the TC or ABS work on the left rear wheel. In the recent ice would have been the ideal time to check but I didn't have the time. I'll look out for a strip of wet grass 1 by 2 metres in the road.

For now I'm assuming that this is a Nanocom artifact. The only alternative seems to be the ABS ECU. I've found various similar faults on other forums (seems that the Disco 1 ABS was the same as the Defender) but no answers so I am still looking.

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Thanks for the update.

As well as testing the L vs R swap as you have done, I have tested the electrical integrity of the circuits (resistance of around 1125 ohms +/- 20 or so). As all four wheels came out as the same, I concluded that the ECU was duff. Unfortunately I do not have a 'known good' to test this theory, I am currently stuck!

Chris

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