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Chassis Swap


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Gents, I'm about to undertake a chassis swap and have bagged a whole 4 days to do it :lol::rolleyes:

I've got access to a JCB digger or gantry crane for lifting the body off, so no real problems there, but where's best to lift the body from without damaging it?

I'll be replacing the clutch, possibly my crunchy R380 and the A frame ball joint. The defender recently had new trailing arm to chassis bushes and radius arm to chassis bushes so no sweat there. What about wiring? I will most probably disconnect it (assuming there are connectors) between chassis and body? Brake hoses etc again easy enough.

Anything I have missed? is it worthy fitting the chassis wiring loom on the outside of the new chassis in some armouring?

Does anyone know how much the body weighs?

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Did a chassis swap on a 110 a while back. To lift the body we put a pole through between the rear tub and chassis rails (just fits above the wheels) and chained it to the arms of a 2 post lift. The front was a bit trickier - we ended up with a ratchet strap hooked in to the bottom pillars of the bulkhead (round the bolt sleeves) on each side, then lots of blocks of wood up the wings and across the bonnet to stop it getting crushed while picking it up in the middle with a block & tackle on a gantry.

From there we just lifted it up far enough the wheel the chassis out, swapped over engine, box, axels, fuel tank etc.. then wheeled it back in and dropped the body down onto it. You can disconnect the wiring without snipping, and we put the loom back into the chassis.

Took 3 of us 2 long days to do it.

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