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daveturnbull

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daveturnbull last won the day on December 7

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About daveturnbull

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    Army recovery service

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    Bournemouth

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    Anything mechanically crude or electrically innovative.

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  1. Here's the 300Tdi one. https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-1996-300tdi/C846
  2. Given that the 300Tdi's use an econoseal connector here, I think you'll probably be alright. Oh, and half of that one looks non-standard, which is probably why it doesn't fit properly.
  3. I think the Disco 3 ones are the same as Jaguar S type, which given other shared components would make sense. Info on S type one here
  4. Thanks Chris. I guess my real question is, which cheap one that I can buy on eBay will work without a computermabob to talk to it? From what I have read elsewhere, some have the 12v 'on' pin disabled in the software, so can only be controlled by the bus interface. But nowhere does there seem to be a list of which ones these are, or how to identify them. The holy grail would be a nice list of the model numbers / cars they were fitted to / control method / any quirks.
  5. Is there a trick to telling if they are can bus controlled or not? A simple on / off would do me fine, no real need for a timer.
  6. After weighing up all of the different auxiliary heating options, I've decided that I'd quite like a Webasto Thermotop. They seem plentiful 2nd hand as they were fitted to many different cars, which are now of the age where they are being sold as parts on eBay. There seem to be a few different model designations C, Z, E, V etc... I'd be keen to hear what the differences are as I've not found a good explanation of this yet. With regards to fitting whatever model I choose, the plumbing side seems pretty simple, but I'm not sure about the control side, so I'm also keen to hear about how this is best achieved.
  7. You'll be wanting a Discovery LT230 for a 1.2 ratio. All Defender / 90 / 110 were 1.4, with the exception of the NA (Naturally exAsperated) Diesel engine 110's which were 1.6. Of course, you might find one out a 90 that used to be in a Disco
  8. Tubs - you can either do as Mudmonkey has, and use a 130 Hi-cap tub, or as I have done a re-work a standard 110 tub. The 130 Hi-cap looks like an easier option as it doesn't require any modifications to the tub, where as the 110 option there is quite a bit of work involved.
  9. Join them together and see if the reverse light comes on.
  10. Smart car seats have been done before, so obviously work. As do RX-8 seats. Access to the battery and storage boxes is the achilies heel of non-defender seats. Good to see another 100" joining the club! That chassis crossmember looks like it might need a bit of work tho.
  11. Thanks for the durite lead, they have a couple of promising options.
  12. Don't worry, they all do. I don't want any unexpected fires.
  13. Ross, I am using carling switches with the proper plugs.
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