discodave Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Hello, it's me again, sorry. I'm on a mission to get everything sorted before I go off to work. I've got a leaky front diff seal and I've been on Microcat and got 2 part numbers FRC8220 and FTC5258 but it gives both for front AND rear. Paddocks give FTC5258 for the front with and either FRC8220 or FTC5258 for the rear depending on 3 or 4 bolt flange. Is this correct? How do I make sure I order the correct seal? Thanks. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 You can either get the axle number and see where it falls in Microcat or buy both versions and you'll sort it out when you'll get the old one out. Don't buy the seal from Paddocks. Get the OEM (Corteco) version from AllMakes or Bearmach retailers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 You can either get the axle number and see where it falls in Microcat or buy both versions and you'll sort it out when you'll get the old one out.Don't buy the seal from Paddocks. Get the OEM (Corteco) version from AllMakes or Bearmach retailers. Thanks cipx2, whereabouts might I find the axle number, I've been under and had a look but cant see anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Thanks cipx2, whereabouts might I find the axle number, I've been under and had a look but cant see anything? Cancel that , I,ve just found out on Rimmer Bros website. I'll go look again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 After removing baked on grime from the axle I found the number on the front of the passenger side upside down just below the seam, so I need FRC8220, have ordered 2 plus 2 mudshields from famous 4 coz the rear appears to be leaking as well. While I was there I cleaned the grease nipples on the props ready to give them some lube and I noticed the nipple inside the spider on the diff end of the front prop looks like it's been rubbing on something and indeed it felt loose so I'll have to get a new one and replace that as well when I drop the prop. Is that common? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 Got all my bits from Famous 4 today for my leaky diff flanges, so am just waiting on a seal removal tool to arrive and I'll tackle that job. Today I freed up my difflock lever. Looked for previous threads on the subject first and as others had found it was a bugger, had to go in through the centre console, remove the housing and attack it with some big persuaders in the garage, but got it done, greased it up to f**k and tested it offroad, result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Did my rear diff two weeks ago. Didn't need a tool to remove the old seal just a big screwdriver to lever it out. Didn't use the special tool either to fit the new seal, the tip is after it's lined up square to the hole, tap around lightly with a small hammer and once the seal is in use the old seal on top of the new seal when tapping around the seal to ensure it goes in squarely. I hope you have four bolt flanges as I believe three bolt require a tool or something made up to remove remove the flange. O and there's another tool to undo the flange/prop bolts but I just used two spanners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 Did my rear diff two weeks ago. Didn't need a tool to remove the old seal just a big screwdriver to lever it out. Didn't use the special tool either to fit the new seal, the tip is after it's lined up square to the hole, tap around lightly with a small hammer and once the seal is in use the old seal on top of the new seal when tapping around the seal to ensure it goes in squarely. I hope you have four bolt flanges as I believe three bolt require a tool or something made up to remove remove the flange. O and there's another tool to undo the flange/prop bolts but I just used two spanners. Thanks for the tip Teabag. I've got the prop tool coming as well. Have used spanners before and have a big screwdriver but I thought I'd treat myself and make the job easy as possible. Going by my axle number I've got the other seal. Hope I've got it right. The flanges are 4 bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi discodave. I had a look in my parts manual and as they say in the films "I Concur" you do have the right number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi discodave. I had a look in my parts manual and as they say in the films "I Concur" you do have the right number. Thanks Teabag, I'm aiming to get it done on Monday now as the weather here is plop today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Let us know how you get on Ok. From putting on my overalls getting the trolly jack and tools out, to washing up it took me four hours to do just one seal. Some say I went to sleep underneath the disco, but no I was busy all the time. I did take the wheel off for better access and grease the props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 Let us know how you get on Ok. From putting on my overalls getting the trolly jack and tools out, to washing up it took me four hours to do just one seal. Some say I went to sleep underneath the disco, but no I was busy all the time. I did take the wheel off for better access and grease the props. Started on my diff flange seals today and have had to stop and leave it. When I looked to see what flanges I had, I just had a quick squint at the front which is four bolt. Of course the rear is three bolt, so I had to fashion a puller from a long bolt, one large socket , three small sockets and some washers, to get the centre pin doo dah out. Then had to stick my leg in under the rear wheel arch to push on my ratchet to get the nylock nut off the end of the diff as I had no room under the truck to get any leverage on my breaker bar, Les was right about them needing explosives. I then had to virtually destroy the old seal to get it out using a big screwdriver (having realised that whilst looking at seal pullers the other day on fleabay, I'd forgotton to finish the transaction) Before doing anything else I decided to check the flange and of course the reason it's leaking is because the flange has corroded. So I've had to leave it till I can get a new drive flange. Hopefully Famous 4 will have one. So, altogether not the most successful day but I'm getting there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 My flange was held by a 14mm bolt which was/is tightend to 130Nm. I put a small trolly jack under the spanner to crack it, as you say the breaker bar is to long, ok if you u have the vehicle on ramps may. My flange had a bit of wear but my leak stoped with the new seal. Good, clear pics u must have a good camera. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodave Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 Got my flange seals done today. Got new front and rear flanges from Famous Four. Back one went on a breeze and although the old front flange was pretty much okay, I decided to fit the new front one anyway, but when I offered it up it was about 10mm too long. Wish I'd taken some photies but I was trying to crack on. Called FF and they found the part number for my older, shorter flange had been superceded by the new one. The mudshield on the new one sat about 10mm away from the diff and as it sits on a raised section I couldnt just slide it closer. FF rang me back and said they'd found a supplier for the old flange but it'd be tomorrow before I could get it. As mine wasnt too bad I decided to get the job finished today and put it back on. When changing the seal I thought there seemed quite a lot of play in the diff pinion, then when I put my old flange back in, it sat about 2mm away from it's original position. I tried various things to make it seat better but to no avail. The new seal was drifted in properly with the old seal and was clearly not the culprit so in the end I reasembled it and just tapped the mudshield in the couple of extra mm and everything seemed okay. Took it for a test drive and it was fine only I'm not sure if I'm just being paranoid but when putting it in reverse the usual clunk seems more pronounced now. The old diff oil was black and smelled kind of burnt but I didnt see any metal in it. Any ideas anyone? Ta. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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