CV Joint !!

[jonost24]

I think it's time to change my offside cv joint . I've the obligatory "clicking" on left full lock for some time,

and today after a trip to the tip I've got a squeel when turning right, from the ofside front........I think.

Is the squeel another sign of a knackered cv or something else ?

How do I tell which cv I have ? or is it just a case of taking it off and having a look ?

Where's the best place to get a replacement cv, quality/price wise ?

While it's apart, is it worth changing anything else ?

Any special tools required, and any awkward bits to watch out for ?

It's an '87 90, was a 2.5D but changed to a 3.5 RRC 4 spd auto, don't know if the previous owner changed

the axles as well, or would they be similar reagrding the parts I require ?

Sorry for all the Q's, but want to get it right

Thanks, Jon

[DaleGreaves]

I think it's time to change my offside cv joint . I've the obligatory "clicking" on left full lock for some time,

and today after a trip to the tip I've got a squeel when turning right, from the ofside front........I think.

Is the squeel another sign of a knackered cv or something else ?

How do I tell which cv I have ? or is it just a case of taking it off and having a look ?

Where's the best place to get a replacement cv, quality/price wise ?

While it's apart, is it worth changing anything else ?

Any special tools required, and any awkward bits to watch out for ?

It's an '87 90, was a 2.5D but changed to a 3.5 RRC 4 spd auto, don't know if the previous owner changed

the axles as well, or would they be similar reagrding the parts I require ?

Sorry for all the Q's, but want to get it right

Thanks, Jon

It should be an AEU2522 if the last owner did not change the axle,the way i did it was to find the axle number its on the left hand side on the top of the axle near the the brether pipe,I did mine the other day to say i have never done one it was walk int the park took about an hour and half

[jonost24]

Thanks Dale, that's useful info to know. Did you have to disconnect the brake caliper ?

I assume the cv comes out with the halfshaft and then you "knock" the cv joint off ?

Where's the best place for a cv joint ? MM4x4 are close to me. Would it come as a kit,

with gaskets etc ?

Sorry to be a PITA

Any tips would be useful

Cheers, Jon

[DaleGreaves]

yes the cv comes out with the 1/2 shaft then just tap it off,rcv are pritty good for parts rcvdoncaster.co.uk.It should look some thing like the picture when striped

[jonost24]

Just checking paperwork when I bought the 90, and it does make mention of the rear axle being used off the RRC.

So I decided to strip down the "clicking" front offside.

I've attached a few photos. I've got the Haynes Defender/90 & the RRC manuals, but they don't appear to tie

up with what I've got.

I've tried to put the photos in order as bits came off. There doesn't seem to be a circlip on the end of the shaft, and the

CV joint just came out leaving the halfshaft in place.

Anyone recognise what I've got ?

The bearings appear to be in pretty good order, but also the CV joint "looks" ok. Is this just a false indication and

still worth replacing ? Shall I replace the bearings as a matter of course ?

Thanks in advance, Jon

[Ex Member]

That is a CV from a Range Rover, R606665. It is actually not a bad design. The CVs are strong and the outer shaft is the weak point, which is easy to change.

See if you can find the axle serial number.

[jonost24]

Thanks for confirming that Red. I tried to find the serial number where Dale suggested but can't find anything.

Red, if you say these cv's are strong, do you think it's still that that's causing the clicking ? As I said the cv

seem to be in good shape, or doesn't that mean very much. By the way I have found that cv in my Haynes RRC book.

The housing has had one shot lube in and not EP90. Would this make a difference, although it does look pretty well lubed.

Any suggestions before I dive off and buy a cv joint. By the way, any idea how much these type of cv's cost ? and where from ?

Thank you for your comments, more welcome

Cheers, Jon

[Ex Member]

They are as strong as the AEU2522.

If it feels tight and smooth, it is OK. You'll need to check the other CV and then the diff, if you are sure it is inside the front axle.

Are you sure it is not the tyre rubbing?

[Ex Member]

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listi...oint&page=1

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/RANGE_ROVE...e/CV_joint.html

http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/productno...p?partno=606665

[jonost24]

Thanks for your input Red. I'll give the cv a good check. If it's ok I'll pop it back on.

I don't think it's the tyres, they are BF MT but they shouldn't be rubbing. I'll also

check the other cv and take it from there.

Cheers, Jon

[DaleGreaves]

when i had striped mine down the cv did not look bad at all but once replaced the clicking stopped.

[jonost24]

Okey dokey. Tonight I cleaned the cv joint and found that the ball-bearings were "slightly" pitted

but I did notice that on the outer inner cage (if you know what I mean) there were chips in the windows

where the ball sit, and also some wear on the windows. So I think I'll replace the cv joint, possibly double up

on everything, so I can do the nearside. I did also notice that the bearings looked clapped out, so I'll

change those as well.

In the Haynes RRC book it also says something about changing the spacing collar and the phosy-bronze bush

Is this something I need to do or not ?

Cheers, Jon

[Les Henson]

Clicking on full lock turning left, means that the right hand CV is worn. Vehicle weight is thrown in the opposite direction to the turn, so puts more stress/weight on the opposite side to the turn.

Les.

[jonost24]

Thanks Les. That's right it's my offside that's clicking. I'm going to order a couple of cv's and

do the nearside as well while I'm on a roll . Silly me, although the bearings are covered in

a grey gunge, I forgot to apply a sideways pressure (tapered bearings) so in fact they don't

feel too bad, no notchiness or anything, BUT is it still worth me replacing them while I'm at it ?

They are Timken bearings LM603049, with a seal on both sides of the hub, although Haynes

only show a seal on the inner side of the hub Any one know what the part No's would

be for those seals ? They both look different.

I did notice when I unbolted the stub axle from swivel there was no gasket but what appeared

to be silicon sealer or something. Is it better to use a gasket ?

Sorry about this , but one last question then I'll p!ss off.

Shall I re-fill the swivel with EP90 as per RRC Haynes or one-shot grease ?

That's it for now

That's for all input, cheers, Jon