chassis dimensions

[tiddler66]

My 109 has had the rear crossmember replaced once before.....and now the whole rear end is very corroded......what size should the rails be.........my replacement crossmember will accept a box section 120 X 80 mm where as the stumps sticking out of the chassis I have are 150 X 90 mm.

[Les Henson]

Chassis rails are 2 5/8" wide. Depth varies along most of it's length. I don't understand what you mean by 'stubs sticking out'

It would be very helpful if you could post a few pictures.

Les.

[kingdong2]

either someone has plated the chassis before to make the rear x member fit or you may have bought an 88" rear x member as a 109 has a larger box section. the idea is you cut the old x member off in the right place dress the ends of the chassis rails and then slide the new x member over making sure all the brackets that hold the body to the chassis all line up then weld it on.

graham

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1962 2a swb 200 tdi.

[tiddler66]

either someone has plated the chassis before to make the rear x member fit or you may have bought an 88" rear x member as a 109 has a larger box section. the idea is you cut the old x member off in the right place dress the ends of the chassis rails and then slide the new x member over making sure all the brackets that hold the body to the chassis all line up then weld it on.

graham

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1962 2a swb 200 tdi.

The chassis has had a rear crossmember with extensions fitted before. The replacement was now so rotten, that it did not need to be cut off.....it just crumbled away.....I now am going to fit another replacement....ie, its 3rd rear crossmember. The extensions are about 1" short of touching the next crossmember (the one covered by the petrol tank). My new extensions will not go over the other extensions......and I can't simply remove them, because there is virtually nothing left of the original chassis rail......I am going to cut them off flush with the second crossmember, and weld on some newly fabricated rails, which will run from the petrol tank crossmember back, so that I can simply slip on the new rear crossmember and weld it up. Unless anyone nows better, I will make the rails to fit my new replacement member. Its just nice to know what they should be.