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P38 Brake pipe replacement


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One of the brake pipes to the rear 4 way splitter on my '95 P38 has corroded through and I'm going to replace both this weekend.

I've never tackled this job before and there's nothing about it in the workshop manual. It looks like it may be beneficial to remove the fuel tank and possibly the exhaust for access.

Has anybody got any helpful hints to ease what looks like an awkward B@$&@(* of a job? :unsure:

Thanks

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Glad I'm not the only one with a horrible job on the go ! (Freelander v6 timing belts) There are couple of things I would say is that its probably better to use Knuifer pipe - the copper nickel stuff rather than the straight copper.It may be a bit harder to bend,but its more resistant to damage than the plain stuff.Also make sure the pipes dont rub on anything and are properly clipped back as they will quickly chafe - then burst.

Taking the tank or exhaust off is up to you,but if you do you risk the broken rusted up bolts etc that come with working on a car that has been around a while.With a bit of help you can usually fiddle the pipes through quite tight areas,I'd rather that than deal with broken fuel pipes on a heavy tank etc.

Happy days......

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Cheers Ally V8 - The prospect of ruptured fuel lines and grotty clips to add to my woes had occurred to me. I might have a go at fiddling it through. The Nickle piping isn't available locally and the car doesn't off road so I'll go with the copper in the interests of getting it back on the road quickly.

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For anyone interested in this thread. The job is possible without removing the fuel tank or other components. The suspension air tank is a bit of an obstactle as there are two retaining clips behind it and pushing the new pipe into them is a bit of a test.

Total job time for two first time amateurs was 6hrs including stops for lunch, copious coffee, a couple of attempsts at bleeding the system 2 test drives and tools tidy up. Saving about €300 :)

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For anyone interested in this thread. The job is possible without removing the fuel tank or other components. The suspension air tank is a bit of an obstactle as there are two retaining clips behind it and pushing the new pipe into them is a bit of a test.

Total job time for two first time amateurs was 6hrs including stops for lunch, copious coffee, a couple of attempsts at bleeding the system 2 test drives and tools tidy up. Saving about €300 :)

Hi Will C

are you calling me an amateur ???????????????

Oilman

P.S . the coffee was good.Need to borrow the flairing tool to repipe the rear brakes on the rebuild

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Hi Will C

are you calling me an amateur ???????????????

Oilman

P.S . the coffee was good.Need to borrow the flairing tool to repipe the rear brakes on the rebuild

I can drag you down to my level!! Tool could be arranged ......cost you a coffee and a stickey bun tho :P

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  • 1 year later...

I read your topic with interest as I am now faced with the same issue of corroded rear brake pipes and have searched for replacement parts but struggled to find them. I thought about going copped but wondered why land rover used something harder, is there a reason.

What pipe and ends did you get and tools to do the job.

I have to redo all the pipes on my 1970 series 3 so might as well invest in the correct gear.

It also sounds like everyone is saying you can do this without taking anything off teh vehicle although I accept its always easier but how many times does removing other items lead to other jobs.

Can you thread the pipes through made up with the ends on, might be a silly question as I have not made brake pipes before.

Thanks

Robert

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Just to ditto the above comments, you don't need to remove anything to re run p38 rear lines. Just remember to mark which one goes to which side :lol:, and remember to make enough of a bend to allow for the suspension moving up and down :)

G

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