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300 Tdi starter does not kick in when engine is warm


Thys

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This one has me bogged down. I had the starter overhauled, and the solenoid replaced. If I switch the engine off after a trip of more than 10 km, the solenoid just goes "click" when trying to start . Short trips, or having not started within one hour, no problem. I checked the main cables, battery condition, every thing fine. Can it be that the replaced solenoid is not rated for the high engine bay temperatures? Remember this is a 300 Tdi, so the poor solenoid is right next to the turbo, and exhaust.

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Can it be that the replaced solenoid is not rated for the high engine bay temperatures? Remember this is a 300 Tdi, so the poor solenoid is right next to the turbo, and exhaust.

It does sound like it's jamming when the engine is hot, doesn't it? Is the solenoid you have a Genuine part?

Greetings to you in Centurion, I worked down in Sandton, Jo'burg for a few weeks. How is the winter?

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It does sound like it's jamming when the engine is hot, doesn't it? Is the solenoid you have a Genuine part?

Greetings to you in Centurion, I worked down in Sandton, Jo'burg for a few weeks. How is the winter?

Hi Errol209,

We've just hit a cold rainy spell, and some hail this afternoon. Tomorrow is one of Southern Africa's biggest open air car shows, Cars-in-the-Park at Zwartkops Race Track, so every body is watching the weather. In our reference frame work, it's very cold.

I have reason to believe that the solenoid is not a Bosch unit, and I did a voltage drop test when the solenoid "clacks", the main circuit stays open.

Cheers from a cold and wet Centurion.

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I have reason to believe that the solenoid is not a Bosch unit, and I did a voltage drop test when the solenoid "clacks", the main circuit stays open.

Cheers from a cold and wet Centurion.

Not sure I can help much more, but I can cheer you up a bit - its raining and not very warm here, too!

Good luck from not-so-sunny Lancashire :)

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Buy a new starter. End of.

I've had no end of agro with starters tht work intermittantly. You can strip them, fix them, test them and they work prefectly on the bench and for a while on the car. And then for no apparent reasons they just refuse to work when its most inconvenient. By the time you get home and try and fi it it all works perfectly again!

Jon

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Buy a new starter. End of.

I've had no end of agro with starters tht work intermittantly. You can strip them, fix them, test them and they work prefectly on the bench and for a while on the car. And then for no apparent reasons they just refuse to work when its most inconvenient. By the time you get home and try and fi it it all works perfectly again!

Jon

Thanks Jon,

It seems the way to go, but here in sunny South Africa, you need to sell some organs to afford a new starter :)

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Thanks Jon,

It seems the way to go, but here in sunny South Africa, you need to sell some organs to afford a new starter :)

Well what we found this morning, when the engine is warm, the voltage drop from the battery to the wire at the solenoid is 4 Volt, but when cold the voltage drop is 1 volt. We installed a tempory relay, and now all works well.

I am told the voltage thief can be the ignition switch, or the spider, or the starter relay, or even the wire; will wait and see.

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Well what we found this morning, when the engine is warm, the voltage drop from the battery to the wire at the solenoid is 4 Volt, but when cold the voltage drop is 1 volt. We installed a tempory relay, and now all works well.

I am told the voltage thief can be the ignition switch, or the spider, or the starter relay, or even the wire; will wait and see.

Thys, would you believe I had something related-sounding on the Skoda? I think there might be a bit of the starter circuit getting hot, close to the exhaust? On the Skoda it was the VNT control pipe deforming, which meant low boost at any speed :blink:

Glad you're getting closer to finding your gemlin - keep us posted!

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