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Jon White

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Jon White last won the day on May 21 2018

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    Hampshire

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  1. Nothing wrong with a 300Tdi, but i wouldnt fit an autobox behind one. I had a factory 300Tdi Auto Range Rover, which was awful as a result of the auto box. Drank fuel, and when you put your foot down it would kick down, make a **** load more noise but wouldnt actually go any faster. I’d go manual every time. I’ve a 200Tdi in my series with an Lt77 and Lt230 behind it.
  2. IMHO tyre size and pattern should be the limit and there is a precedent for this set in many of the competition formats. I’ve seen it first hand, where somebody with a tricked up truck with massive tyres has cut the ruts in a track so deep that anybody on anything smaller just ends up beached on the axle tubes with all four wheels spinning. This then just starts an ever increasing circle of people wanting larger and larger tyres etc. The trouble with play days is that they attract anything from a freelander on road tyres right through to full on challenge trucks. The challenge truck boys soon get bored of driving round the tame tracks and go off piste. I dont see limiting tyres as limiting development. Think of F1 - there is a huge amount of development done around a fixed set of tyres. I see little clever development done with 4x4’s - it’s all about locked up diffs, massive tyres and burying the throttle mad max style. One of the few i have seen (some years ago now) that did something different was Mitsimog which had some thought put into the suspension on it which allowed it to do all sort of different things. I’m not sure how well it worked or not, but at least it was good evidence of somebody trying something different. For those who followed ladoga years ago think about the Frogs too - how different were they to anything anybody had ever seen before? We never had any of these problems with 7.50 SAT’s were the biggest and most aggressive tyres you could get! Jon
  3. It can go anywhere in the line - so you could make up a short lead with a diode in to simply plug in between the loom and the alternator to prove that it fixes the issue without cutting anything. The factory fitted them behind the dash, but it can go anywhere in the circuit. It might be a bandaid, but a diode in line was how they fixed it from the factory! Jon
  4. I’ve said it three times now and I wont waste my breath saying it any more times. Add a diode to the warning light feed wire as it is back feeding via the warning light. That’s all it needs - a 15p diode. You probably don't need a new alternator. We see this all the time - its very, very common. There is a diode present in this wire in the later wiring looms to prevent this issue - it is hidden in the wiring loom. You just need a standard rectifier diode - a 1N4001 will do. It is all covered on this post Jon
  5. Correct - with the small lead disconnected from the alternator it wont charge, but this proves everything else is working correctly. You need to add a diode to the circuit via the warning light and it will fix the issue. It’s a very very common problem.
  6. It’s backfeeding via the warning light from the alternator. You need to add a diode.
  7. Download the manual for the carb from edelbrocks website. That will tell you all you need to know. CR is often stamped on the block adjacent to the engine number.
  8. Take the top off the carb and read the numbers off the parts. That’s the only way to know what youve got and you can check the float levels at the same time. Also check the timing and also check that the timing is advancing when the engine is revved. There is a plastic collar that can move and stop the advance weights from moving correctly.
  9. The idle mixture screws will make bugger all difference if you have running problems at high revs. They only affect mixture at idle to about 1500rpm. What jets, metering rods and springs do you have in the carb? Are the floats set to the correct height? I’m running an SD1 V8 on an edelbrock 1404 with 0.86” primaries, 0.95” secondaries, 67-55 metering rods and orange springs. It seems about right. My mixture screws are about 2 turns out from fully bottomed. Mostly these end up running far too rich as they come jetted from the factory for a 5+litre engine. Jon
  10. Yes I’m DIY shortening, modifying, changing ends over to suit differing trans etc. Have never bothered with balance. Just set up a DTI on it to make sure it’s straight. Never had a vibration. I fit my own tyres on anything classic or that i have built and again never bother with wheel balance - even on my hot rod. (Wheel weights are unsightly). I can DIY fit low profiles to the daily, but mostly cant be bothered so just let the tyre guys do their thing. IMHO its not worth it on an off roader - one big lump of mud, or one big chunk of tread chewed off on a rock and its immediately out of balance again.
  11. I rarely bother to balance tyres on any vehicle. Never find it makes any difference at all. It’s just something else the tyre places can charge you for. I certainly never bother on landrover wheels. Same with prop shafts - never bother with balancing and dont suffer from vibrations. It probably makes a difference on an F1 car, but not on a Land Rover.
  12. I got mine from rally design. I used the ones that just screw together.
  13. I bought a new steering column in the end as i was unable to source the bearing.
  14. I’ve smashed a number of the Ujs on front shafts. They aren’t that strong. I also swapped to 110Cvs with custom made shafts from GB engineering
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