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Alternator whoe's still...


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Hi All,

Just changed my alternator and still not charging..... Yes 2nd hand alt but from a good source..

Anything else I can check... fuses, wiring,etc...?

Or do you think I can cover 85x miles on a full battery if I don't use anything else electrical....?

and charge it up to come home.... need to work away tomorrow you see....

Cheers

Dave....

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Just changed my alternator and still not charging..... Yes 2nd hand alt but from a good source..

Absolutely sure it works? I know the odds of two not working are slim, but worth asking.

Anything else I can check... fuses, wiring,etc...?

Most things directly to do with the alternator aren't fused, and the maximum number of wires is five:

1. One or two big fat brown ones that go directly to the battery on most cars

2. One thin brown/black one which is the feed from / to the ignition warning bulb (I assume this lights up with the ign. on?)

3. One thin one (on newer alternators) which goes straight to the battery as well, for the battery voltage sensing function (don't have one so don't know the colour)

4. One thin one from the W terminal to a rev counter (could be any colour at all)

If 1. falls off nothing charges at all.

If 2. falls off (it won't self excite, so) nothing charges

If 3. falls off the alternator will assume that the voltage it puts out is the battery voltage, so it should all still work

If 4. falls off your rev counter reads zero.

Interestingly, if you don't have the charge warning light resistor AND your charge warning light bulb goes then alternator won't work.

Try taking the plug off the back of the alternator (be careful, battery feed at stonking potential current :blink: ), turn the ign. on and see what voltage readings you get (12v, 12v and more than nothing on the brown/black is good)

Or do you think I can cover 85x miles on a full battery if I don't use anything else electrical....?

You'll use the ignition system / stop solenoid, indicators and brake lights - more of a time thing than distance, but you will probably make it :ph34r:

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Thanks for reply, forgot to mention...

It's Td5 does the above still apply..?

cheers DAve..

TD5 means you should have wire 3.

Ign Light goes out when running..

Sure it isn't the battery? What kind of voltage are you getting with the ign. on and a few lights switched on?

<edit - that should be ign. on BUT ENGINE NOT RUNNING>

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You wont get far in a TD5 with no alternator.

The fuel pump alone draws at least 5A constantly add in the ECU etc and lights etc and you'll be lucky if it runs for half an hour.

Does the battery lamp come on with the ignition? if so, does it go off once its started?

If that wire or bulb is broken, the alternator may not charge at all.

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You wont get far in a TD5 with no alternator.

The fuel pump alone draws at least 5A constantly add in the ECU etc and lights etc and you'll be lucky if it runs for half an hour.

Does the battery lamp come on with the ignition? if so, does it go off once its started?

If that wire or bulb is broken, the alternator may not charge at all.

Hi Aragorn,

Ign light does come on and go out when the engine runs..?

I pulled the plug on the back of alt, no power on the white cable battery voltage on the other one....

I plan to leave in the daylight now so need to travel 85 miles.... plausable??

Dave..

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|Hi All,

Finally got to the bottem of this one, broken wire in the loom from alternator to back of clocks, white green wire, which also feeds the speedo as this is working fine too...

I ran a wire from the alternator out of the engine bay, in the door opening to the white tag on the ignition switch....

Still need to find the break in the loom but up and running again....

Thanks to all the replies to point me in the right direction...

Any thoughts on where the break might be...??

Cheers

DAve..

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