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Salisbury diff adjustment


Lars L

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I have recently installed a Truetrac together with new bearings in the rear axle of my 110. The old diff came out OK without the special spreader and taking all apart was no big deal. I carefully followed the instructions given in the LR repair manual and measured everything accordingly. The measuring showed that the pinion needed an extra shim which was bought and installed.

Somewhere along the line, something got wrong, so when putting the diff carrier in the axle casing, there was a free play instead of a really tight fit. Well, I pulled a bearing once more, installed all the shims I had at hand and tried again. This time the carrier was tight, but a few blows with a plastic hammer got it in place OK.

I checked the crownwheel free play - 0,17 mm, the book says 0,15 to 0,27 mm so everything was put back to test drive. All seemed to be OK, smooth and quiet. Until I let off the accelerator at speed for the first time... A rumble and vibrations that could be felt in the whole truck.

So, back indoors again, out with the oil and off with the pan. I sprayed some primer paint on the crownwheel and turned the pinion several turns in both directions. The inprints showed that the pinion was too far in... Thank you Land Rover for the exact measures!

Carrier out, pinion out, the extra shim was taken off and everything went back in again. The carrier slips in with no extra tightness but also no free play. Just like the one I took out. Paint on the cogs again and this time it left an almost perfect inprint, well centered and covering a large area. Time to test again. Nice and quiet as before but still rumble when engine breaking from speed. A whole lot less than last time at least.

So, experienced crowd, what next? Moving the crownwheel closer to the pinion, maybe? Does the carrier need to be real tight to get in place? Now I'm out of shims, and there will be more than a week before I get any, so plenty of time to think it over. :unsure:

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Why are you adjusting the pinion height? If you've just changed the diff centre then you only need to set the backlash of the crown wheel to the pinion. This is done with shims on the carrier bearings. Even if youv'e changed the bearings on the pinion (provided you've used proper Timkem bearings) you shouldn't need to mess about with the pinion height. Have you renewed the collapsible spacer? you should really and if so has it crushed down properly?. Is the pre-load correct on the pinion if youv'e altered it's height?

Steve

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Being of lesser knowledge than you Steve, I followed the manual. :) And since I also changed all bearings, the manual told me to check the pinion height. Which I did... And added a shim which now has been removed again.

Yes, bearings are all Timken. Spacer is new. Crushed down to achieve the resistance when turning according to the manual, now in the region of 45 kpcm. Measured with a fish scale on a 10 cm arm to 4,5 kgs.

I'll just have to do with the Skoda for a while, waiting to get the shims to move the carrier and crownwheel. :rolleyes:

Thank you for your input! :)

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Right... I have now taken the pan off and checked the backlash. It varies a little on different crownwheel positions, and is from 0,18 to 0,22 mm, so there is really nothing to change there. Quite OK according to different sources. I also checked if there is any runout on the crownwheel and it's well inside of the allowed 0,05 mm so that would be OK as well.

The only thing now might be that the carrier bearings need to get more preload. At the moment, the carrier is snug, but not really tight. It can be taken out with no effort and can be pushed in place by hand. Maybe I should add shims of 0,12 mm as the manual says...

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