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Heater matrix trouble


basquen

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Hi,

I assumed the air-con drain was blocked (again) on drivers side (97 300tdi auto) but then noticed that it's coolant and not water under my feet. Not a massive leak (header tanks down 1cm, no signs of overheating) but clearly needs sorting. Having searched the forum I can see that the full job is a 6h strip down and 4-5 hour rebuild just to get to the matrix. P38's seem to have a issue with O- rings. Is there a similar recurring fault with the 300tdi ? If it's just the hose connectors rather than the matrix itself - is there any chance of getting to the leaky culprit without taking dash out ? The 300tdi has airbags and aircon to contend with as well.

Is there anyone who has been confronted with a similar problem recently and can offer advice or point me towards tutorial/pics ? I would be really grateful !

Cheers

_________________

1994 300Tdi Manual

1997 300Tdi EDC Auto Japan import

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Hi,

I assumed the air-con drain was blocked (again) on drivers side (97 300tdi auto) but then noticed that it's coolant and not water under my feet. Not a massive leak (header tanks down 1cm, no signs of overheating) but clearly needs sorting. Having searched the forum I can see that the full job is a 6h strip down and 4-5 hour rebuild just to get to the matrix. P38's seem to have a issue with O- rings. Is there a similar recurring fault with the 300tdi ? If it's just the hose connectors rather than the matrix itself - is there any chance of getting to the leaky culprit without taking dash out ? The 300tdi has airbags and aircon to contend with as well.

Is there anyone who has been confronted with a similar problem recently and can offer advice or point me towards tutorial/pics ? I would be really grateful !

Cheers

_________________

1994 300Tdi Manual

1997 300Tdi EDC Auto Japan import

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Hi I had same problem with my 2001 Discovery Auto , I removed fuse box compartment cover by removing 8 small bolts which fix in to metal rail also on left side undo bolt that fixes ito L shaped bracket .Next remove plastic vent next to matrix (On my car there is a bracket foot rest holding lower rail up ) remove all of these then remove centre consol there are 4 screws in side cubby box and 2 at front which screw in to lower part of dash once this is done you should be able to get to Matrix easily check to see if pipes from matrix to engine bay are all metal and that ends are not damaged be careful when you undo the 2 clips which clamp on pipes near matrix if you break them or they won't tighten up you will have to buy a new connecting pipe set as this is only way to get new clamps DO NOT TAKE THEM OFF OF REPLACEMENT PIPES AS THIS DISTORTS CLIPS ).It's difficult to get a tight fit if you leave pipes connected in engine bay so i disconected them and fixed other end first then refitted them afterwards top up check for leaks and hopefully job done .

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Sorry mate but we have not found a way to remove the matrix without removing the heater box...its not a bad job but is a bit long winded....if you want any advice please feel free to ring me...numbers on the website....only have a few pics but the aircon needs to be De-gassed first then just disconnect it at the bulkhead...

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Thanks for the info and the photos. I'm going to start this weekend by removing the centre console so I can have a better look at things before taking the plunge. I'll certainly take you up on your offer and give you a call K88MUD if I decide to go ahead. Whilst looking for advice I came across this post on another forum :

Some advice fellas if you are doing this.....ignore the haynes manual!! You do not need to remove hardly any of the dash or go anywhere near the refrigerant circuit, the matrix is up in the heights of the drivers side footwell, remove the electrical cover completely (4 small bolts) and the thin carboard type cover above the pedals, remove the centre console (the gearstick one not the one in the dash) and the drivers side floor vent and you will beable to see the end of the matrix, you have to unclip a few heater control cables and cable tie the wiring loom out of the way, remove the steel panel that held the electrical panel on and that is it, the matrix will slide out (prising the dash but only slightly - its flexible now as the steel frame has been removed), if I knew this before and had the correct matrix the job would have been done in approx 1.5 hours...

Does this sound feasible to anyone ?

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I would say it does but the ends of the matrix pipes do go quiet far into the matrix so a good bit of force would be needed to remove it.

Personaly i would strip the dash for the next one we do....its a bit long winded but easy enough.

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