What tool to remove front fuel line on a TD5?

[Screwdriver]

Hello!

I was about to replace my old leaky fuel pressure regulator (3 hose, later model) when I saw that the third hose coming from the front was repaired earlier and had to be replaced. The hose is included in the FPR kit so no biggie I thought..

The removal of the FPR was nothing compared to removing the nut holding the hose in the engine block! Have any of you removed this without removing the inlet manifold? With what tool did you do this?

I am very thankful for your answers!

Its the nut marked by a yellow square, im taking the pic from the right side and you can see the EGR bypass up close:

Its a 2003 Land Rover Discovery 2, and I cannot use that fuel line, i have to replace it.

Regards,

Carl from Sweden

[IanS]

Cut the pipe & put a socket on the nut? That won't help you to get it back on though.....

[Screwdriver]

Hehe, I have managed to do that with my Dremel just now. Its the on-part Im worried about I bought 3pcs 14mm wrenches that Im about to go loose on with a cutter and flame.. Ill tell you how it goes!

/Carl

[M&S]

Leave the pipe on and just replace the FPR

If you remove the alternator could you feed a ring spanner over the pipe and get it over the nut, that's how I'd try looking at the pic.

Removing the alternator is easy enough

[Screwdriver]

I need to change the line.. Its badly repaired from a previous owner and is part of the leak. The fpr comes with a new quality one.

I have made three new tools, im about to test them now.

Ill post some pics if Im able to get the new one on

Later,

Carl

[Screwdriver]

SUCCESS!!

Everything is changed and the special tools I made did the job! Im a happy Land Rover owner again, no leaks under the car after a 30min testdrive and a longer stand still.

New FPR is going in, with front hose attached:

Tighten the nut:

Done!

Tools that made the job possible! (Forgot the gloves in the picture, no bleeding knuckles!)

The tools I made is marked with yellow. I bent one spanner 90degrees, this one made me turn the nut 1/4 at the time. I tighted the rest with the short one and the plyers. The really short one helped a litte. All of them are the "ring" type. I opened the ring up with a cutter on all of them.

I did not even cut the pipe with the Dremel, I didnt have to..

Regards and thanks,

Carl

[M&S]

Easy when you know how

Good effort. Like it.

[JamesR]

Hi did you take the alt off to do this job

[Marky mark]

In answer to JamesR's question - you don't have to take off the alternator - or the fan.

Just changed the pipe on my Disco 2 - started leaking after an alternator change - clearly just moving the pipe end a little caused the old metal/rubber pipe union to fail - diesel sprayed everywhere!

Made a tool as described by Screwdriver - 12 point 14mm ring spanner with slot cut into the side to pass over the pipe. Found it best with the spanner end bent at just over 90° and slightly turned to the right (with the cut ring end bent upwards).  

Found it better with other end of spanner cut off otherwise too long. Closed up the open end on the remaining stub piece of the spanner. Slid it over the shaft of the main spanner to get leverage and to help turn it. Once spanner adaption work was one - did the job under the bonnet in under 30 mins - just removed the engine sound proofing cover and the fan cover. Straightforward.

Picked up the pipe on ebay - thankfully now available to buy separately from the pressure regulator