piloti Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 'Calling all cars. Calling all cars... I have a 2001 P38 and am about to find homes for about 60 'O' Rings in the valve block ass'y. Here are one or two links people might find useful if you are considering doing this, too: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/valveblock/photos.html http://glenhendry.blogspot.com/2010/12/range-rover-eas-valve-block-rebuild.htmlhttp://www.p38spares.co.uk/commerce/?page=item&itemnumber=1023 (pump rebuild)http://www.falconworks.net/EAS/ Q. Has anyone had a go at this job and has any useful tips to offer before springs disappear over my shoulder I can never find again? Ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Take you time, and do it in a clean area. You'll need a couple of hours. No hokus pokus involved, just be carefull and make sure things go back together properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piloti Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Take you time, and do it in a clean area. You'll need a couple of hours. No hokus pokus involved, just be carefull and make sure things go back together properly. Thanks Old Hand. I suspect I will take longer, but have half a day laid aside for it. We'll see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piloti Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 q-rover I have done the deed and it is probably worse now than before. The pump seal went okay (I managed to do it in situ as I didn't have the right Allen key for the screw on the crank) but I wasn't over-impressed with the replacement diaghragm seal in the Valve Block repair kit, so I put the other one back in. Cearly there is still an internal leak, so I guess that leaves the NRVs as chief suspect. All the air pipes seal well. I have checked heights with the free software, but as it pumps up (about 12 mins) the heights are all over the place. Front high, one minute and then on the stops with the back high a few minutes later. After half an hour or so it's down on the bump stops with no Christmas Tree beeping to suggest the ECU knows why. 'Elp! I have to do a 1000mile trip across Tanzania in 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piloti Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 q-rover I have done the deed and it is probably worse now than before. The pump seal went okay (I managed to do it in situ as I didn't have the right Allen key for the screw on the crank) but I wasn't over-impressed with the replacement diaghragm seal in the Valve Block repair kit, so I put the other one back in. Cearly there is still an internal leak, so I guess that leaves the NRVs as chief suspect. All the air pipes seal well. I have checked heights with the free software, but as it pumps up (about 12 mins) the heights are all over the place. Front high, one minute and then on the stops with the back high a few minutes later. After half an hour or so it's down on the bump stops with no Christmas Tree beeping to suggest the ECU knows why. 'Elp! I have to do a 1000mile trip across Tanzania in 2 weeks. On the software it shows the faults as: F8 0 F9 128 FB 0 FC 0 INITIALISATION No 4 = PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piloti Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Have added a backup system which has lifted the back enough to drive okay, (44cm from hub to wheel arch) but the from only about 2cm (41cm) despite the same pressure as the rear (60psi). Any ideas folks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piloti Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 Hi, The latest: I contacted Dennis Altman of Rover Ronovations. Very helpful. Ex-USA submariner in pneumatics. He said it was possible the NRVs. So after taking the valve block assembly out three times and checking the work I hd done, Lurch, the garage queen now sits up after 30sec - 2min and seems fine after that. It does lose about 6cm overnight, so I haven't found the leak, yet, but the car bimbles along happily once it's up and the pump cuts out some of the time, so it's not getting too hot. (No it's not the thermal cut-out). As q-rover says, it's not too demanding a job. A 12mm open spanner, an allen key and an 8mm and 13mm socket is all you need. Oh and a posidrive. Quite enjoyable really. Don't go to Rover! If I can do it, you can do it. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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