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Woodruff key problems


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Hi all

A year ago i had a problem with the the crank pully so stripped it back to find the woodruff key was like a flat piece of metal instead of been in a half moon shape, so i looked in to it and i wasnt the only person whos had this problem with their defender. i think this problem started because when replacing the timing the big bolt on the crank pully was never torque to the right setting.

Anyway the problem has happened again, last time i bought a new crank pully wheel and new key and the top off the range plastic metal and filled the hole and put it all back together and let the plastic metal set for a week before starting, its done 4000 —5000 miles towing most days.

So has anyone out there have a better idea?? Is it a really big and expensive job to have a new replacement crank installed???

My other problem is im living ireland which has a lack off good land rover hands on mechs, all help is welcome.

Cheer

Liam

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The only thing I can think of is running some weld along the sided of the key way, use a grinder and dremel to clean up the key way. Would be a right pain of a job but if you can get a good edge to the key way I would think it would last but key would need to be tight or it will just wear and come out again.

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If you have a 200tdi engine you may find that the reason for this was because you did'nt use any threadlock on either damper pulley or the actual crankshaft bolt I had the same problem as you until I read in an autodata book when I was going to change my cam belt that you need to use threadlock on the crankshaft damper pulley(the bit where it makes contact with the crankshaft) and the crankshaft bolt and I've not had a problem since, According to the autodata book you are to use grease on a 300 tdi damper pulley-why this is different I do not know

HTH

John

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  • 4 weeks later...

finally getting around to doing this job,

thanks for the replys

i cant get my hands on a mig welder and no one rents them out in my area, just been round my local engineering hardware store and they said use my arc welder with a .6 rod on a low heat and it should do the job :unsure: im a novice at this but need to do it myself as i cant afford the garage costs :unsure:

im doing the cambelt while im at it too but having trouble removing the cam sprocket, any ideas for this??? also is it normal for it to be so sootty in there its like a chimney, maybe the belt was rubbing against something :huh:

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The only thing I can think of is running some weld along the sided of the key way, use a grinder and dremel to clean up the key way. Would be a right pain of a job but if you can get a good edge to the key way I would think it would last but key would need to be tight or it will just wear and come out again.

FWIW, a post sometime ago suggested making up a brass key of the correct dimensions, fiting it in the keyway, and welding up to it, as the

steel weld won't take with the brass. I will say it's not something I've ever tied myself though.

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