bill van snorkle Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Cheers Jez,That's something i'm still pondering. trouble is, at the mo, any post relating to absolutely anything regarding axles normally ends up with 'fit portals', or long off topic replies like the last 3 pages. Portals, and axle swaps, are off the cards at least on the 90, once i've got the rr bob project on the go that might be a different story, but all i was after was some advice, or experience on which CVs to fit. how about a portals board? PS, i'm not dissing what you, Dan, Andy or anyone has done re portals, it all rocks, it's just not what i asked about! Luke Me thinks you are a bit hard to please Luke. You got the answers to your original query and alot more besides. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Andy I was having trouble justifing it to myself I must admit and its only up the road... I will be changing Axles to gain the CV,shaft and diff strength of the Nissan and Toyota shaft and diff in the rear axle if I can find them at the right price and it could be a very cheap convertion which is very easy to do .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Right. What you REALLY NEED is some portals... ...only kidding. How about this. Foot-pounds of torque per Pound Sterling? (Higher numbers is better). Some figures may be wrong / need filling in. Genuine AEU2522: Cost: ? - Torque: 4154 ft/lb - RESULT: ? lbft/GBP Cheapo, Paddock etc: Cost: 30 - Torque: 4242 ft/lb - RESULT: 141.4 lbft/GBP Genuine 32 spline: Cost: ? - Torque: 3713 ft/lb - RESULT: ? lbft/GBP Ashcroft bling: Cost: 250 - Torque: 5734 ft/lb - RESULT: 22.9 lbft/GBP It's great to have some real numbers, but bear in mind that (I GUESS???) these are one off tests, which is a slightly dodgy basis for coming up with unequivocal rating figures, but still a bloody good start. I don't know if this is an average value over several tests, but its important to look at these things in context. Of course, the above is only useful if you're not going to exceed the rating, otherwise lbft/GBP figures plummet as you buy more and more of them, add in the hassle factor, plus shipping of parts and the possibility of damaging other bits when the CVs fail and you'll rapidly end up being worse off than shelling out for bling in the first place... Just another way of looking at it. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted August 22, 2006 Author Share Posted August 22, 2006 Jez, ta. Bill, no hard feelings! Yes the question has been answered, and yes, there's been plenty more info, all of which has been interesting to read, but, it wasn't really answering the original question. That's not saying that it isn't any use to plenty of other people out there. please don't take my post as a personal dig, it was not intended. Al, ta, that's a nice way of looking at it. I know Ashcroft's are stronger, but i can't indulge ~8.3x the price, for 1.35x the strength. I know the marginal gain in strength is useful and the cost is justifiable to those who 'need' it, but when i've yet to bust a CV and the current pair, which have been in since i bought the 90 3 years ago, are starting to click after 1.5 yrs on 255/85 (33"), i'm happy to continue with non-uprated parts. simply, i don't drive the 90 in a way to break parts, because it's my daily driver and i have to keep the red mist at bay. Thanks all. Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Jez, ta. Bill, no hard feelings! Yes the question has been answered, and yes, there's been plenty more info, all of which has been interesting to read, but, it wasn't really answering the original question. That's not saying that it isn't any use to plenty of other people out there. please don't take my post as a personal dig, it was not intended. Al, ta, that's a nice way of looking at it. I know Ashcroft's are stronger, but i can't indulge ~8.3x the price, for 1.35x the strength. I know the marginal gain in strength is useful and the cost is justifiable to those who 'need' it, but when i've yet to bust a CV and the current pair, which have been in since i bought the 90 3 years ago, are starting to click after 1.5 yrs on 255/85 (33"), i'm happy to continue with non-uprated parts. simply, i don't drive the 90 in a way to break parts, because it's my daily driver and i have to keep the red mist at bay. Thanks all. Luke It's all good Luke. It may be hard to find among the BS but the information you require is within the 4 pages of this thread. May I suggest another option ? one that is still used by one of the most successful competitors in offroad competition in Australia, Malaysia and New zealand. and that is to retrofit CV's, hubs and stubs from an early RangeRover classic. Mike Smith has tried all the previously suggested options ,ie Toyota etc in his old blue 2 door Rangey, They all break. And they found that the difference between winning and losing was in how quickly they could replace broken components during competition. With the plug in stub shafts of the early Rangeys being a dime a dozen and a reliable fuse, and with the aid of a rattle gun and strong magnet they can change a broken stub shaft in around 2 minutes. It also wouldn't hurt to do as I suggested in a previous post, and that is to spend a few minutes with a die grinder, deburring and removing the sharp edges that mass produced CV's all seem to have. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted August 23, 2006 Author Share Posted August 23, 2006 Ta, i'll look into the rr setup, especially as if all goes to plan i'll have a rrc, so using the same parts is a bonus. Whatever i do, i'll certainly get the die grinder out and do as you suggested. Cheers Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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