rovernut Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I use a good quality premium grade oil 5/30 to Acea A1 as specified in the handbook. Because this liquid gold is around the £12 per litre mark, I have been reading the specs a little more carefully. Most say they are formulated to protect the exhaust treatment devices like cat or DPF. My question would be, if you no longer have EGR or Cat fitted why bother with such complicated oil? My TD5 has done over 100,000 mls now and surely needs the protection of the addatives found in the heavier oils. Any thoughts from the oil buffs would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Oil is like insurance, if you want the best insurance then pay for it, my 2.5 TDi has done over 350,000 Kilometers has never had any form of emission control fitted and I still insist on using 100% pure synthetic oil because it has better lubrication qualities over a wider range of operating temperatures than mineral oils. If your engine is breand new, or just overhauled with new bearings, rings and relined cylinders then use a mineral oil as you need the abrasive qualities that mineral oil has to bed everything in, once its run in however then use the better quality oil. In short just what price do you put on your engine ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 I'd use an ACEA E4/E6/E9 oil. Why ? An oil meeting those standards has the best, most robust additive package available ATM, even if the sulphated ash, zinc and phosphorous levels have been dropped for SCR use The ACEA 'E' oils are for HD diesel use, and so are ideal in a hard worked TD5, particularly one that's been chipped. Yes, it's formulated for EGR and DPF and those two things play merry hell with long term lubrication, so it actually gives the oil something up its sleeve if you've deleted them. An ACEA A1 oil is so basic it's pretty ordinary, and anyway, you need at the minimum an ACEA B1 oil (car diesel rated) which is still pretty ordinary, being roughly equivalent to the old, superseded API CF spec. [edit] I forgot to add either an xW-30 or xW-40 is fine in the TD5. Even though the handbook says 5W-40, a 10W-40 that meets the above specs I've mentioned will protect better than almost anything else and be fine for start ups down to around -20*C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 [snip] ....then use a mineral oil as you need the abrasive qualities that mineral oil has.... [snip] Umm, no they don't, not even close, sorry Iain. The lubricity of a well formulated mineral based premium lube (and most are blends now these days anyway) is as good as any 'synthetic' oil. The only advantage a syn or syn blend oil has these days is in low temp pumpability (I'm talking below -15*C) oxidation stability over a long drain interval and extremely high engine oil temps, levels where you've usually created other heat related problems anyway. Premium mineral oils like Caltex Delo 400 LE, Castrol RX-Super, Mobil Delvac MX Super, etc are as good as their full syn brothers on short oil chage intervals, ie. they are still good for at least 30,000km in truck use. It's only when trucks are doing 100-120,000km oil change intervals they have to use the premium syn oils to get the mileage and break even/get in front on cost. Cars are a little different, short runs and stop/start city driving are the hardest conditions on an oil and this is where the oxidation stability of syn base fluids help extend drain intervals in new vehicles but one is not 'more slippery' than another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 More on oil specs & labeling: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73665 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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