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Tortured Discovery 300 Tdi Back on the Road - Help needed


Supercharged16v

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  • 2 weeks later...

GREAT NEWS !!!!

I FINALLY GOT RID OF THE CHECK ENGINE FAULT !!!

Flippin ECU had so many dry joints, if it wasnt for the 200 Euros to re-program a new one, I'd buy one off ebay !

Feeling quite pleased :)

Car pulls like it should? now

By the way, I've heard from a lot of people that I should get rid of the EGR valve and wash my intercooler.

What do you guys think ?

Is it worth it ?

Will it alter my consumption negatively ?

Does removing that interfere with other parts of the car ?

I heard that all I need to do, is buy a blanking plate, take it off, and put it back on with the blanking plate, and thats it

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The removal of the EGR valve does nothing to alter fuel consumption, it is an emmissions control unit, but usually best blanked off as they become more troublesome than they are worth, you can make a plate to do it with from 2 or 3mm steel.

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I guess it depends on what you're comparing it to, remember its a comparitively small capacity 2.5 litre diesel and on the road it's pulling a lot of weight. That said I was amazed at how much more acceleration mine had once I'd swapped the Ashcroft ZF4HP22/24 for the easier to maintain R380 5 speed manual, the 300TDi seems to suit the manual better, however I think the auto is far better for desert touring, my only problem with it being I simply wouldnt be able to fix it out in the bush if it broke down.

Oh, and curses to Lucas, The Prince of Darkness who designed the wiring for the Disco.

Wash the intercooler out with acetate, you will be amazed at how much oil and crud gets into it, remember to blow it dry and remove all the volitile fumes before you re-install it, I use an old vacuum cleaner. If you are getting a lot of oil in there look at the plastic oil seperator off the rocker, it's a non servicable componant that is (in my 'umble opinion) poorly designed internally. Replace it and the hoses connecting it to the engine and turbo intake if they are in poor condition.

You can try increasing fuel to the engine by turning in the regulator screw at the rear of the Fuel Injection Pump (FIP) but only by 1/4 of a turn each time, once you start getting smoke you've gone too far, also remember more fuel equalls a higher exhaust gas temperature - not so good for the turbo pump vanes, keep them below 750 degrees Centigrade and remember more fuel means poorer economy.

Have you changed the oil and filter on your auto? If not do so, its an easy job and its nice to think that the oil is fresh - an oil change every 30,000 kilometers is recomended and regular changes helps no end in preventing build up of crud in the centrifugal govener which controlls the auto gear changes, and you really dont want to be pulling that little doozy apart!

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  • 2 months later...

Oh dear, I'm sorry Boydie, I just seen that you replied here :blush:

Thanks for your input mate, what you are saying makes perfect sense.

Now, I've got some good news, and some bad news :/

I think now I know why most people say that Discoverys are a Love and Hate thing :unsure:

Well, thanks to Nigel, a new cruise control ecu sent by Nigel and a new multifunction ecu, I've managed to get:

The circulation button

The A/C

The fog lights

And all the rest of the functions WORKING !!!!!!!!!!!

....well apart from the srs and abs warning lights, but thats a different story...

Now... regarding the Cruise control, I've managed to get power to the button, and it gets all nice and green when pressed, and I can hear a relay kicking in :)

However, when I got the car, I noticed that there was a long piece of vacuum hose that was perished in the engine bay, and from what I was told, that was the cruise control hose.

I know where one end goes to on the right side, but I have no idea where the other end of that hose is supposed to be attached to !

Anyone ?

So ... bad news now ....

I thought it was about time I changed/checked the diff oils, as I never did, so I bought some good 80w140 Kendall oil and went about to change it...

Rear diff was full.... but it wasnt full of oil... :huh: ... it was full of mud water :o

So once I rinsed that up and put some proper oil in it, I went up front to do the front diff as well !

Removed the diff bolt, and .....

.

.

.

NOTHING !!!

Not a SINGLE DROP came out, and I am not exaggerating one bit !

NOTHING ! NADA !!! Not even the typical wetting around the bolt !!!

Which probably would explain some light winning noises it was making since I got it....

Fresh oil in, the winning noises didnt go away, and I've got some very good leaks from both the pinion and the surrounding gaskets.

I'm like a dog who marks his territory every where I go :wacko:

Last but not least... it turns out, that now that the weather has gotten quite hot, when the car gets warm, if you turn it off and then you wanna turn it back on in less than 10 mins, it wont turn the engine fast enough !

Now this is a real puzzle for me....

Battery is relatively new, and its the second one I've tried and its as big as I can fit !

Alternator is charging at 14.4 Volts even with lights on and radio

Grounds of the engine have been changed and I've got additional thick grounding directly from the battery to the engine

Starter motor has been refurbished...

WHAT ON EARTH IS THIS ALL ABOUT ? :(

I come to work in the morning, and if I have to go for an outside job, I need to take jump cables with me, and pray it doest pull this trick on me !

Any input would be greatly appreciated !

Also... any store which sells quality parts for a good price you know of, would be nice too :)

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Ok, but what ? And from where ? :/

And why is it only doing it SOMETIMES when the weather is hot and the engine is warm ?

Its not like its a constant thing :/

For example, it happened twice today at 30 degrees celcius but yesterday when it was 31 degrees it didnt !

The day before I was driving it for an hour, pulling my trailer with a car loaded on it, I stopped to pick something up on my way to the track, and it didnt turn on unless I used a booster ! :/

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