xychix Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I've found (after cleaning my brakes) that I still need to try and kill the brake pedal in order to get brake force. after dis-connecting the brake vacuum rod with the engine running I found loads more vacuum with the lever more to the front of the car. So i set the knobs on the rod to almost maximum and reconnected it all. Braking appears better (could even have a proper 2-frontwheel slip on gravel road). 1. Is there a guide to set this? 2. how to find the optimum? 3. what happens if it's to far either end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 What vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 series III 109 (1980) with vacuum tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Ok, if you make the rod to long... it smokes black like hellll (as if you would impose on your competitors in a tractor pulling). However with some fiddling and kicking the brakes hard I did manage a wheel slip (1 wheel, the one that was cleaned.. see other topic) on paved road!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 It sounds to me as if you could have a vacuum-leak and there is no 'stored' vacuum being held in the tank to operate the brakes so you are only getting servo-assistance from the instantaneous amount of 'suck' the engine provides on a closed throttle. There should be a non-return valve of some sort in the connecting pipe between the rod-controlled flap and the tank/servo. If this is leaking it will prevent the buildup of stored vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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