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xychix

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    France (Burgundy)

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  1. He says now.... I think i ditched my front backing plates after tripping over them a dozen times after my zeus front disk conversion.... Knowing that they where non replaceable I would have given them to a local collector here in france (as I intend to do with my 2.25di engine)
  2. Covid didn't allow me to get here and work on this. But now I have found some time: - battery is in a cut open and cleaned out diesel tank under the driver seat (LHD) - wires of disco starterlead to starter and from there to a 100A fuse, on the other end of that fuse the alternator and a thick lead that goes trough the firewall to do the rest. - did find a permanent 12v to feed the fuel pump and connected the old starter relay wire. + it drives in and out of the garage itself, it charges! - it does seem to run in temperature way to fast, it seems to over fuel, on throttle it tends to sort of back fire (small 2.25di exhaust might nog help), engine oil measures to high. At A certain point i had the feeling it was picking up speed from my throttle position and chose to cut fuel straight away. Nevertheless, happy with the progress! It's been a while since it moved without the help of a tractor.
  3. First run, its smokey... yek, but it runs. Maybe the fuel pump has been tampered with while still in the disco...
  4. It is working! used the PAS belt. Spanner of the series to the waterpump.
  5. working on it already changed the alternator front plate, now cutting up a 40mm*80mm thick walled box section, drill holes and go look for 70mm m8 8.8 hi tensile bolts (2x) 130mm m8 8.8 hi tensile bolt (1x) Hoping that thereafter the belt that was driving the PAS pump is a match.... (or maybe the belt from the series block)
  6. Is this the spacer block with series mouning? (and rotated frontplate on 200tdi alternator? )
  7. My plan would basically look like this but with the alternator slightly more forward. http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/images/200d8.jpg
  8. yes I'm without the turbo and LHD, the heater on the right bulkhead (but considering removing that and just looping the heater waterpipes from out to in in the block. ok ok, I've got a 3mm walled box of 40*80 mm lying around. Will see if I can build a spacer with that. Hopefully can source proper length bolts somewhere near here.
  9. Engine is in for a first fitting. Last main thing to sort out is the alternator. Given that I'd love to keep the disco alternator and not have PAS pump in place I'm looking for a way to get the pullys lined up and find a suitable belt. When placing the alternator it lines up with the first pully on the crankshaft but as I need to have the waterpump inline as well I need the alternator to move forward 22 millimeter. I've been reading on several solutions using a series mount and a alu carved block and rotating the frontplate of the alternator. But looking a the first picture I tried to imagine having the alternator in this position and just move it forward 22mm.. That would mean I need a few rings at thee front of the top mount and grind of a small piece of the back (the white tape in the second picture). Now I've lost my confidence after seeing everyone using complex solutions while this seems so simple........ what have I missed? Must be something there? Don't belts that long exist?
  10. MagicMatt and others, these pumps are getting easier to source by the day! Chinese Fake https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32961883627.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=1706100219&albag=73428776544&trgt=539263010115&crea=nl32961883627&netw=u&device=c&albpg=539263010115&albpd=nl32961883627&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvbiBBhD-ARIsAGM48bysqr-4qPvmat46Tn6_rxj7h21-_B_sZum1fmbK4HgJ9G1W2WvvfvoaAmw2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds New Original: https://evshop.eu/en/vacuum-pumps/159-hella-up28.html Electrical contact between the UP28 and the ECU is made using a cable equipped with an engine compartment connector and attached to the vacuum pump. Over 17 million electric vacuum pumps have been produced since 1999.
  11. Well at the moment I made some steps, My 200di is mated to the series box and resting on it's engine supports. now I want to have the engine tick over and run before I'l invest in things like timingchain replacement and all the other bits and pieces. Slowly but steady, but hey I'm not complaining. It's the first time I've seen and engine going out and in a car..... and I did it myself and alone using make shift tools!
  12. Hahaha, a 'step out' to electric vs. ICE made totally sense in this topic. But debating the quality of Lead-Acid batteries might be double offtopic (but you're welcome, slow thread anyhows). Next week I hope to have time to make a few more baby steps - 200tdi exhaust manifold needs to come off. - brackets for the 2.25 exhaust manifold will be made - hope to be able to remove flywheel housing in order to tet fit that to the box and drill needed holes. If I get that far in the limited time I have I'm happy.
  13. I'll for sure go down the diesel route as you need to be a licensed car manufacturer to turn a car into an electric car in France. It has been on my list though.
  14. For me it was only used to replace the vacuum flap in the 2.25 diesel air intake smothering the engine. (making it smoke more) I was happy with that simple fix without understanding or diving in to more details around this topic The 109 had a vacuum, the vacuum hurts the enginge, I build a simple better vacuum. (love electric solution opposed to vacuum pumps etc). I'd assume my 1979 Series III has a servo of it's own? Ah, the error in communication: "are you running a servo as well?". Yes I do, no I didn't touch it at all so assume it's he original; Series III. My apologies. Just to be as complete as possible:
  15. nope. Just master cyl and a hella UP28 electric vacuum pump connected to the brakelight switch
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