Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us

xychix

Settled In
  • Content count

    359
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About xychix

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    France (Burgundy)

Recent Profile Visitors

469 profile views
  1. The servo on the rear brakes wasn't touched after placing the disc's How can these servo's being adjusted? (other than the adjustment nobs that determine the distance of the blocks to the drums in 'rest' state?
  2. wellll, had binding rear brakes and now it looks like this:
  3. ordered flare tools and will order a decent amount of pipe. What thickness is used on the series? 3/16" ? "CuNiFer" is likely what gazzer called cupronickel right? Also: hopw can I find out if my joints are metric or imperial (1979 SIII 109) I'd expect atleast 2 sizes of male units as the master cylinder has 2 different sizes on it. I've also found this 'brake failure warning switch' on the frame, no wires to it so the warning light would never work, is that an item I should reuse / remove / replace / refurbish??
  4. had a bad day on what ever I did today, decided to at-least replace the flex hose to the rear axle in the brake lines. Somehow that went south as well, broke the steel line just above the steel connector.... Is that repairable or do I need to strip the body again to replace the complete line??????
  5. Well, back onsite only to be finished (the bad way) in less than 30 minutes. Removed enough fluid, removed master cylinder only to find that the reservoir of the 109 master doesn't fit on my new NRC952... Other stuff I figured out. The screw in holes for the 952 are different in size, little wider on the front hole. Seems the same size as the 2 on the old master, however the other way around!!! on the 109 the wider one is closer to the firewall. As I'll be going nowhere with my new cylinder before I find a 90 reservoir I'll try something else: place the dual servo brake (came of the front) to the rear. It might be that 2*2 servo's can handle more fluid than 2*1 2-sided servo. (not sure of this can even work but I really want the 109 to be somewhat drive-able to keep the spirits up). Also replacing the flex hose is on the list.
  6. 200TDI to petrol conversion

    Well if anyone in the Netherlands has a 200/300 TDI lying around after conversion I'd be interested
  7. if an original oil filled air filter is fitted, would it be suitable to tap into that? (gives the oil fumes a new life as filter oil (just a crazy tought)
  8. 1975 LR 109 Sereis 3 ex Norway military

    interesting fuel tank placement.... where is the tank itself? oh also one in the back? maybe the front opening is to a extra (swb) tank under the seat?
  9. Oppositelock

    I had them one but as 1 was broken (never locked) I bough standard hubs. If you have them lying around fit them! If you buy new ones you'd better spend half of that money on fuel and you break even is likely years and years away. IMHO there's only 1 valid reason to buy manual hubs (or modify the ADD on a modern Toyota front axle) and that is if you need low gear on pavement (for example to reverse manouvre a loaded trailer in a tight space without burning to much clutch often)
  10. Will do, actually need that as the current one is bad. BUT as my UP28 pump was connected to the brake-light switch I already trained myself to lift the pedal back with my toes so this spring won't solve my original problem it might help my schizophrenic right foot to become normal again Other 1st thing to check is the brake-lines. As I'v worked on the rear half of the chassis I hope I didn't dent the line placing the tub back on which would restrict return flow (also unlikely but still).
  11. Did not but have these wheels still around and can give it a try. Still unsure which part to buy or how to proceed (have one week near the 109 mid-june). For now I'm considering to order a NRC9529 (early 110/90 master cilinder) and hope this is a bolt in job. (choice based on Googling... real experience is always more valuable so still open for other ideas!!!) Likely only to find: - The part's isn't matching the servo. - The brakeline connectors are sized differently - After all is fitted the problem is still there Suggestions more than welcome.
  12. Rear disc conversion

    I'll likely be in the market for a defender 90 / 110 master cilinder as well (see my topic on binding rear breakes). keep me/us posted on what you encounter of if the master is a straight fit (will the same copperpipes and their threading fit? can the old paddle be fitted without any issues? etc etc.)
  13. Gazzar will do. fitting was a breeze after I got the proper kit (first got LaRo discs + Jag calipers and pipework ) While you'r at it overhaul the hubs (so get proper seals and have a tad fluid seal at hand in case you're missing something) , don't forget to order longer studs and make sure you don't have the 'standard series' rims. I've got new Wolf rims fitted. now back to tearing it apart to do swivel bearings by now I can dismantle front hubs with my eyes closed.
  14. @gazzar I guess you are spot on. Forum member Arjan was here today. Seems to much pressure builds up in the system and pedal travel is minimal. Front system was replaced with zeus disk kit other than that nothing was altered (recently) on the brake system. Other only non default item is the electric Hella UP28 giving the vacuum instead of the intake smothering valve, this might give me a fierce vacuum but I don't see how this would shorten travel and create residual pressure in the brake lines.... Arjan opted to research conversion to a defender master cylinder. So its a 1979 SIII 109" station wagon. originally double cilinder front drum brakes and single cyl rear drums. Front was replaced by a full Zeus disc kit, rear remains original.
  15. Just lifted my landy 'cold' and the rear wheels turn freely as they should. Once I brake a bit (engine not running but I've got an UP28 hella vacuum pump so I do have pressure) the car breaks as expected. After releasing the pedal the rear brakes bind (despite adjusting the shoes). Any hints? replacing the springs that pull back the shoes (despite them being good before conversion?) fitting a (non LR) adjustable break pressure separator?
×

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy