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xychix

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About xychix

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    France (Burgundy)

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  1. xychix

    LANDROVER 2.25 DIESEL

    WRITING LIKE THIS IS SEEN AS RUDE Writing like this, with 'normal' letters, is the better way
  2. After also changing the left front swivel pin and bearring (and figuring out 1 bolt holding axle to stubaxle was broken) the drive is waaay better at 45-45 Mph. Still like a boat but atleast I feel like the captain now..
  3. What you're saying it's 'as expected' to have a metric hole in my stub axles and imperial holes in my axle housing and the stuff being held together with imperial nuts n bolts. Thanks, I was expecting an odd repair. If I ever get to do a full axle rebuild I'll likely drill them all to M10.
  4. I've been replacing my swivelpin and bearring today. As one of the bolts holding the stub axle to the axle appear to be in place but snapped I was looking for a (temporary) replacement. Figured that the thread clearly wasn't metric, however M10 does fit the holes in the stubaxle but won't fit the holes in the axlehousing itself... may I conclude that there are 2 types of axle housings / stub axles in 109 series III ? imperial and metric, and I've found myself with a car that has mixed parts...? partnumbers: 576521 for imperial and FRC7257 for metric....
  5. xychix

    Army pup tent on SIII 109 roof ??

    Yeah, kid wanted to sleep on the roof.... So we sleep on the roof. Nothing fancy indeed but rather effective and comfy with 15 cm of caravan matrass.
  6. xychix

    Army pup tent on SIII 109 roof ??

    It appeared possible
  7. xychix

    Indicator stalk

    I've replaced it on my 109 SIII station, piece of cake. No weird rivets at all as far as I remember.
  8. As my daugther started complaining I'm always at work at home and during our holidays I'm always working on the landrover (she's got a point there) I decided messing around with the landrover should be shared fun. Asking what she wanted the response was quick. "I want to sleep on the roof". Brilliant, now how to pull that off. I've got 2 halves of a heavy cotton army pup tent lying around. If I'd cut 2 boards to make a floor, place them ~3 inch apart and an extra piece of wood in there. lock them al together with hinges and only fix the most rear board to the roofrack I'll end up with a 'fold open' floor with up to 3 inch of 'storage' in between. Unfolded I could nail down the pup-tent and set it properly. remove the poles, fold it in and it would be sort of drivable... Has anyone before attempted such a stupid idea? Did it accidentally work? I'll put the pup-tent aside to bring it to France and get you some pictures in 2 weeks. (If I don't forget the thing).
  9. Solid stop on 1 pedal, still have the feeling I'm compressing both circuits to a certain extend and then the discs (front) do the rest. However braking in reverse is much improved telling me the rear brakes are doing their fair share. I've put an infrared handheld thermometer in the car as that's a great way to measure any temperature issues on a quick stop. Attached pictures showing the springs (as promised) First is RearRight second RearLeft. Current setup (just for future readers not having to read the complete post) - zeus discs on front - normal 109 drum brakes on the back - early non abs defender 90 on front. (however I'd first give it a try with a 109 series III master, in my case I'd need to reflare OR order a more recent Delphi 109 master as the fittings have changed from 2 sized UNF to 12mm/10mm. Newer 109 Delphi masters should have 12mm/10mm as well). a 110 or 109 master with a 50/50 bias should put slightly more pressure to the back compared to the defender 90 60/40 setup. - replaced all lines and hoses.
  10. xychix

    Headlights not working

    indeed, fusing the stuff is a first thing to do!
  11. xychix

    Headlights not working

    an average multimeter wil also have a 'beep trough' function where it beeps when the 2 ends are connected. This can be used to measure switches / lines and check for broken circuits (would have to disconnect the battery first.) Also earth problem is still possible as headlights take way more power as the other lights and thereby need a solid ground.
  12. Hi Snagger and all others concerned. I'm a quite risk averse person, I won't be driving on the road without braking I really trust. The binding issue was solved after my defender 90 master cylinder was fit and my pipes and hoses where renewed. now I have brakes at the front at first pedal and brakes at 4 wheels in 2 strokes of the pedals. As I know the rear brakes are sh#t (nails, unknown slave cylinders that appear to leak a bit, wrong placed springs, pads that have seen a fair bit of axle oil......, and that's the known issues) I'll be replacing the rear pads / slaves and all springs. I'll get back here after that for further diagnoses. If the Zeus disc at the front take the same amount of fluid I might have to get my another new master cylinder (109, delphi with 12mm/10mm holes which correspond to the currently placed early def90 master), but more on that later. All the comments hints and tips for sure helped me understand how the complete braking system fits together, I might not have gotten it all right yet but once this is done I'll be quite familiar with all the quircks and frotless or a 109 braking system thanks to all of you!
  13. Hi red90. Have a week off camping with the kids. And thanks to the write-up and the video I do get how to get the leading and trailing shoes mounted in the right holes and springs on the correct side. As I'd have to replace contaminated and broken of shoes and leaking cylinders anyhows that's a standing order already. And I'll make pictures after mounting.
  14. I was so focussed on my clearly faulty / messed-up rear setup that I missed the point that when there is loads of air in the rear lines the master still should push trough and actuate the front brakes. Did an extensive amount of bleeding and if I now brake with the proper intention to stop I feel the inner part of the master hitting the next and getting on the front brakes. So at least it stops, it stops that good that I can draw black lines on the tarmac. If I do a few short pumps I can even get all 4 wheels blocking on gravel road. (especially driving backwards the difference with rear brakes after 2 short pumps and a proper pump is clear against only 1 proper stroke can be felt clearly. I assume that there’s not enough fluid for rear brakes as the master is a bore 25mm while the rear servo’s on a 109 normally are 33,2 mm bore). This basically was the result of a chat with Drew from Landypoint.fr whom made me rethink the working of a proper seperated circuit system without faulty valves or other carp in between. If 110 rear cylinders are same bore as 90 rear cylinders AND they fit a 109 backing plate that should pretty much match the master and allow for proper movement hence braking. that would basically give me a defender 90 braking characteristic (yes I understand that wouldn't be ideal for a 109 SIII station even though it will be empty in the back most of the time) I've by now also understood that 110 slave cilinders won't match a 109 backing plate.
  15. I've just held on the drum 'half' with a bright lamp next to it and have an assistant slowly press the brake. On half a stroke the shoes seem both evenly seated against the drum and I can't turn the drum by hand anymore. Will get the other rear wheel of again as well and do same sanity checks there. Also will remove the nails there and reset all springs in proper holes and on the proper side by removing the hubs. Somehow it might come back to air trapped somewhere in the system. question: is a brake pipe small enough to push bubble out while bleeding or can bubbles stay in corners on the pipes? (eg. is the fluid thick enough not to pass by an air bubble in the piping itself) (p.s. Using DOT 4) And thanks all for the support! That really helps a lot to force me to look at things again and again.
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