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xychix

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    France (Burgundy)

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  1. will have another look tomorrow, i needed a small success after fighing with various stuff. So i gave the air filter a permanent place. Used the disco brackets (bending and cutting involved) and some threaded bar m6. sits rock solid now. and opening is in the right direction to meet my snorkel at the entry of the just removed heater and fan (hell that was a fight as the inserted crimp nuts came loose and it's hard to reach with hacksaw or anglegrinder)
  2. pretty sure that isn't the case as this setup did work correctly for a while and got me trough french MOT with compliments on the balance in breaking.
  3. Hi David, Thanks for the clarification. I've fitted that UP28 meself after removing the 2.25di and placing a 200di (non turbo) engine. Also the defender 90 master brake cylinder should be next to equal to the series 109 only with another bias and displacement as the def90 has discs at front and drums at rear, i quite deliberately choose that over the 110 cylinder (which I believe to have brand new in stock as well.)
  4. yes original 109. yep lifting by hand works and then it stays there. Assume that if the brakes aren't dragging it should be ok ish. However for the switch to turn open in the current pedal end position i'd have to fabricate a new bracket that allows for the pedal to sit ~3mm lower. The switch is already at max setting. This feels however as solving the wrong problem.... the pedal should return. Does the Brake Servo have a task in this?
  5. My series III 109 brakes nice with a zeus front disc brake kit (original brakes at the rear) and with a new def 90 master cylinder. However the pedal doesn't nicely return which in turn means I'm driving with my brake lights on (and the vacuum Hella UP28 I've attached with a relay to that same wiring.) What would normally cause the pedal to really return? the 2 springs on the pedal? of also something in de big drum directly behind the pedal?
  6. lol really, i've got one lying around after converting to EP28 vacuum.
  7. Thanks. Don't fancy removing the sump at this moment A few shims on the mount might be enough for now.
  8. placed it the other way around and drove the car up a pile of rocks with the right wheel until i was slipping front left and rear right. Seems to touch just about... might be just good enough.
  9. 62.5 cm streched to the max (*gaitor already removed) 57 cm push al the way in to hard lock.
  10. will do, although extended length will be limited by the gaitor.
  11. yes i have. propshaft was out under 5 minutes. Also got pictures from Arjan, he seems to have no gaitor, might wear a bit quicker and need more grease.. also 'bakwards' with the inner part of the propshaft gearbox side and the outerpart axle side. Oficially both propshafts (front and rear) have the inner part, and thereby the gaitor) towards the front of the vehicle afaik.
  12. thanks gazzar, you also have the propshaft 'the other way around'. Wil go that same route. Normally the Gaiter is towards the front of the propshaft.
  13. I'll put it in the other way around and find a place to fully lift the right front wheel and drop the left front wheel. That should bring me in the 'danger zone' Likely that also where the gaiter got torn, did do some off-roading as part of my drive test trough deep holes.
  14. Had another good look. indeed the shaft van be mounted backwards. that might just be enough.....
  15. This is the hose top end, runs behind the oilfilter. The top of this can still needs to be connected to airintake.
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