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Range Rover Diesel P38


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#1 Black-Feather

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 10:02 PM

Range Rover P38 Diesel Lost power at the peddle?

:D Hi all I'm a new member and would like some help,

Has anyone come across this problem? I have on a few occasions lost all power at the peddle? Engine ticks over OK but when you put your foot down to accelerate there is no power, and sometimes it just comes back, I can go a couple of weeks all being well and then it goes again?

Also I have another fault that seems to be also intermittent now? The heater glow light on the dash wont come on, and when this happen the glow plug don't work making start the car nearly impossible just wonder if anyone else has come across this problem.

I have been told with regards the accelerator it might be the actuator?

Any ideas of advice would be appreciated many thanks

#2 geoffbeaumont

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 08:33 AM

I don't know if there is anything P38 specific that could cause that, but it does sound very much like you have an intermittent fault on your throttle position sensor. Could be a loose or damage wire, but it's most likely a worn track in the potentiometer (ie. new sensor needed).

#3 David Sparkes

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 09:36 AM

Bottom Line, you need a recommended local specialist who doesn't regard 38As as the devils spawn, with the owner as someone whose wallet is ripe for the picking. Just because someone is 'Land Rover' doesn't mean they like working on 38As. Approach your search with those points in mind and you will be more likely to have success.
I can't help with knowledge local to your area.

On these models the actuator or Throttle Position Switch is a substantial bit of kit that exudes quality. BMW branded IIRC.
It sits just above the pedal, so is not subject to the heat and vibration of the engine bay. These factors make it as different as it's possible to be, while sharing the same name, as the TPS on the V8 petrol engine.
With an analogue meter it can be tested for smooth and uninterrupted output.
A bit expensive to change on a whim.

When the engine dies to tickover, and won't respond, is this at speed (say 50 to 80 mph) or is it as you slow down to a roundabout, traffic lights, or other junction? Do you see the Engine light come on, if only for half a second? Depending on year, this is either a pictogram of an injector spaying fuel, or a sideways viewed outline of an engine block.

I'd say the glow plug issue is separate to the 'dies to tickover' issue. The engine ECU is thinking the coolant is warm, so it's not switching the plug timer on. While an ECU problem is not impossible, the ECU may be responding correctly to the input it's seeing from the temperature sensor. IE, it's a sensor or wiring fault, not an ECU fault. There are two sensors in the cylinder head, one reports coolant temperature to the engine ECU, the other reports to the BECM for the engine temperature gauge.

I don't recall, without checking, exactly which is which. It's been a while since I changed one of them in my car. I know which one I changed, but can't recall why :-)

Any other problems with the car, which might not be related, but give a sense of vehicle history?
Year of manufacture? Manual or Automatic gearbox?

Ignoring my initial comment, are you inclined to have a go yourself? That isn't a stupid move, but it could be an uphill climb, steep at times, and you may have to pay money for your training, by replacing parts that don't cure the problem.

Whether you DIY, or want more knowledge when talking to your specialist, you need the RAVE CD, which contains both the Electrical and the Mechanical manuals.
Google 'Green Oval, manual' and download for free the CD Image. You or someone you know, will have to convert that Image File to a working CD, which I suggest you copy complete into a new folder on your Hard Drive, then create a short cut to the file RAVE.EXE in the Folder you just created.
If you are to benefit from this work there is some time to be spent reading and familiarising yourself with the contents of RAVE.

If you don't have the time or inclination to get immersed in the car then follow my first advice, or sell it as is, while the faults are intermittent and you have the possibility of selling a vehicle that works at the time of sale (and may your sleep be continually interrupted by sudden cramps :-)).

Cheers.

#4 steve_d

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 10:23 AM

If, as above, it could be the temp sensors then a worthwhile first move is to check and clean the connections at the sensors. The sensors work on resistance so a dirty connection can cause problems.

Steve
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#5 Black-Feather

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:47 PM

Many thanks for your in-put I sepent loads on restoring my P38 and up grades, couldn't sell her so I guess I will just have to see if one of my local garages can have a look at her? there are a few around that do 4x4 landies, and to replace the car would most likey cost more then fixing her many thanks Mike


\

Bottom Line, you need a recommended local specialist who doesn't regard 38As as the devils spawn, with the owner as someone whose wallet is ripe for the picking. Just because someone is 'Land Rover' doesn't mean they like working on 38As. Approach your search with those points in mind and you will be more likely to have success.
I can't help with knowledge local to your area.

On these models the actuator or Throttle Position Switch is a substantial bit of kit that exudes quality. BMW branded IIRC.
It sits just above the pedal, so is not subject to the heat and vibration of the engine bay. These factors make it as different as it's possible to be, while sharing the same name, as the TPS on the V8 petrol engine.
With an analogue meter it can be tested for smooth and uninterrupted output.
A bit expensive to change on a whim.

When the engine dies to tickover, and won't respond, is this at speed (say 50 to 80 mph) or is it as you slow down to a roundabout, traffic lights, or other junction? Do you see the Engine light come on, if only for half a second? Depending on year, this is either a pictogram of an injector spaying fuel, or a sideways viewed outline of an engine block.

I'd say the glow plug issue is separate to the 'dies to tickover' issue. The engine ECU is thinking the coolant is warm, so it's not switching the plug timer on. While an ECU problem is not impossible, the ECU may be responding correctly to the input it's seeing from the temperature sensor. IE, it's a sensor or wiring fault, not an ECU fault. There are two sensors in the cylinder head, one reports coolant temperature to the engine ECU, the other reports to the BECM for the engine temperature gauge.

I don't recall, without checking, exactly which is which. It's been a while since I changed one of them in my car. I know which one I changed, but can't recall why :-)

Any other problems with the car, which might not be related, but give a sense of vehicle history?
Year of manufacture? Manual or Automatic gearbox?

Ignoring my initial comment, are you inclined to have a go yourself? That isn't a stupid move, but it could be an uphill climb, steep at times, and you may have to pay money for your training, by replacing parts that don't cure the problem.

Whether you DIY, or want more knowledge when talking to your specialist, you need the RAVE CD, which contains both the Electrical and the Mechanical manuals.
Google 'Green Oval, manual' and download for free the CD Image. You or someone you know, will have to convert that Image File to a working CD, which I suggest you copy complete into a new folder on your Hard Drive, then create a short cut to the file RAVE.EXE in the Folder you just created.
If you are to benefit from this work there is some time to be spent reading and familiarising yourself with the contents of RAVE.

If you don't have the time or inclination to get immersed in the car then follow my first advice, or sell it as is, while the faults are intermittent and you have the possibility of selling a vehicle that works at the time of sale (and may your sleep be continually interrupted by sudden cramps :-)).

Cheers.



#6 Black-Feather

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:48 PM

Many thanks for your reply Mike


If, as above, it could be the temp sensors then a worthwhile first move is to check and clean the connections at the sensors. The sensors work on resistance so a dirty connection can cause problems.

Steve






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