Difflock Adjustments

[Logic]

Hi Folks

I've finally got round to freeing off my difflock and setting up the dash light switch. The usual linkage was rusted so required freeing off, and I found I still need to replace the plastic bushes on the operating arm as there's too much play.

But for the difflock itself I have found the cam moves in three stages - off, on, then a further click on. Is this normal? With a front wheel lifted it will lock at the first 'click', but also stay locked when the cam is moved further by hand from underneath. The gear lever will only move the cam to the first 'click' position - should replacing the plastic bushes enable it to go to the second 'click' position?

Then since the dash light didn't illuminate I had the enjoyment of finding and freeing this off. The switch had been screwed right in but it still didn't work. I removed the locknut which gave me enough thread to get the switch working (then ground the locknut down a millimetre and refitted) but I'm concerned that something internal in the transfer box may be wrong as it surely should have activated the switch without me requiring to grind the locknut?

I have not yet done any offroad testing of it, just engaging difflock with a wheel off the ground.

Does anybody have any idea's if this is normal, or what may be wrong (assuming you can understand what I'm trying to say)?

Thanks

[101sean]

The switch will only operate when the diff lock is fully engaged. I think the first click is the splines engaging, second click the switch operating with difflock fully engaged. You can adjust the throw of the lever by screwing in or out the centre pivot post that screws into the side of the transfer box, back the locknut off first. The nylon bushes also make a big difference to the slop in the system.

[Logic]

The switch will only operate when the diff lock is fully engaged. I think the first click is the splines engaging, second click the switch operating with difflock fully engaged. You can adjust the throw of the lever by screwing in or out the centre pivot post that screws into the side of the transfer box, back the locknut off first. The nylon bushes also make a big difference to the slop in the system.

Thanks Sean

When jacking up one front wheel and rotating it, then engaging difflock (first click) it will stop the wheel - I thought this was difflcok engaged. Are you saying that difflock isn't properly engaged at this point? If so, to get it to the second click, is this done by the hand lever, or will the diff pull it on itself in the event of slip?

I now have the switch illuminating when the hand lever is pushed to the left - is this correct? Before grinding/thinning the locknut the switch never operated on the difflock first or second click position.

I thought I'd leave any pivot post adjustment until I got the nylon bushes, but as asked above should I adjust the pivot to allow the full 'second click' position?

[101sean]

As long as the actuating lever on top of the housing is fully over and the light comes on it will be fine.

Thinking about it now, don't think my switch has a locknut. Must check, been disconnected for about 9 months now as it kept failing on, on the to do list along with umpteen other things!

[Aragorn]

From memory there is three positions at the arm itself, left, middle and right. Left is in effect a dummy position. Middle is unlocked and right is locked.