101sean

Friends of mine bought a shiny 99 td5 90 off them, I went back with them to try and get it sorted. Rear xmember was rotten, one of the tyres was dangerously falling apart, back door was cracked from top to bottom etc,etc,etc. They were well and truly ripped off and there's no way it should have had a new mot (from a garage on the same estate). Got some of the defects sorted but it was a fight, they even accused my friends of damaging the tyre on a pothole! I tried to persuade them to get trading standards involved but they wouldn't.

Ouch, that looks totally fubared! I don't think it's common but Porny is your man.

Thompsons water seal was good before it got environmentally friendly. Fabsil or nikwax work but they are all a stopgap until you can afford a new canvas. I get mine from Undercover Covers, wouldn't go anywhere else.

Been following this as I went through all the same on my 101, your result was better than mine! My misfire was an exhaust lobe on the camshaft worn away Made no difference to performance, just very noisy! Engine has since been rebuilt.

Bro in laws 130 did the same, new drivers door actuator fixed it.

The gear lever on the Disco gearbox box is several inches further back.

As said, the weak point in the LT95 is the intermediate shaft bearings, I had mine let go on the M4 on a long run. The 101 club has a lot of info on the LT95 and I think it was Nick Kaye that used to do the bearing upgrade which replaced the thrust washers with axial bearings. I've heard some say this isn't the best move though. With regard to to losing reverse when the shaft shifts, this is simply stopped by swapping by one of the transfer box bottom plate bolts for a longer one, can't remember which one though! The overdrive should only be used in 3/4th, it's been known for the casing to split under high torque loads. Not happened to me but when my Tbox bearings let go it also wrecked the overdrive as they share oil, the swarf damaged all the gears. Good RR ODs are getting scarce. The recommended oil in LT95s was 20W50 engine oil which is what is in mine.

Had K&Ns on the SUs on my 101 for a short time while I sourced the correct airbox. They sounded good for ten mins then the induction roar just became tedious and I'm sure you could hear the petrol gurgle in! Sold them on for what I paid for them.

Nearside lights are fed from the offside, take off the cover plate on the OS and check the connections.

Pulses used to go for around £15000 but prices could be dropping if more are released, £7000 is cheap. There was talk of them being converted to 130 crew cabs as mortar carriers but I don't know if this was going ahead, only seen one. There's a few pre wolf ones floating around that the RAF used, usually Locomotors bodied.

Me and the bro in law rebuilt an LT77 years ago with basic tools but I wouldn't bother doing it again. Fitted an Ashcroft R380 to my Defender about 60,000 miles ago but it's thrown a layshaft bearing so is coming out again. As it's in Ireland I'll be sending it to Dixson 4x4 in Mayo for another rebuild, they have a good reputation.

Keep looking, paid £75 for mine off ebay. Fitted it and main box threw a bearing a couple of weeks later, haven't got round to fixing it yet!

You need to swap the front output flange for a defender one, fit the rear output housing off the defender (no speedo gear in a D2) and swap the high/low linkage otherwise it's a straight fit. Hell of a lot quieter with the D2 gear cut.

Had a Tmax one for ages, used it to pump up our 15m Clarke mast 3 times over the weekend at a show.

I used to have 255/85R16 on my 110 which although being larger diameter were relatively narrow.compared to 285s most fit on lifted 110s. 9.00s or 255/100R16 tend to be an almost exclusively military or large utility 4x4 size and very difficult to come by, second hand ones are often old and cracking. XZLs are hideously expensive new but Yellowsea in China are doing a good copy that you can get through ebay, fully e marked and speed rated.. Previous cheap 9.00s like Petlas or Danubiana weren't much better than agricultural tyres.

I've still got the notebook somewhere from when I did the abandoned vehicles around the Medway Towns back in the early 80s. I can't remember the act we used, Civic Amenity rings a bell. I went round usually in my Land Rover and in the rougher areas leant out the window, sprayed the screen and slapped on the self adhesive 7 day order before getting out pdq! We usually did after public complaints and did untaxed vehicles both on highway and council land. If it was taxed we consulted the police first. If they were still there a week later they went straight to the scrapper who paid us £50 per vehicle, unless it was a bit unusual when I'd tell them to hang on for a week before breaking it. I disposed of what would now be some real classics, no Land rovers though! Had one guy come in to reception claiming he'd been on holiday when I scrapped his knackered 1100, turned out he had a holiday at Her Majesty's pleasure!

Throw the AVMs in the bin, IMHO they are a waste of time. Without looking at a parts list, you'll need drive members, nuts, split pin and end cap, all fairly cheap.

Probably isn't the servo, they work or they don't although I've had a 101 servo fail in such a way it was like having air brakes, it was off or locked up, nothing in between! It could be you've got an intermittent vacuum feed, you've a di or tdi in yours haven't you? See if you've got decent suction from the pump or that the hose hasn't chafed.

Just to round this off, it seems it's quite common according to some on the Lightweight forum and most just ignore it! Not so noticeable on the original 6.50 tyres, 7.50s like I have make it look worse. I've found the cure is always to park with a bit of left lock on, then you don't notice it! Been out and about with the hood off last few days rather than driving my van, springs are looking even saggier now so I could be sacrificing my credit card to Rock Mountain soon for a set of springs and shocks

Came back from pub and despite 3 pints of 1664 there is still a definite lean to the wheel. Pulled the wheels off and and had a measure up. The RH hub definitely has more of a tilt on it but the drum runs parallel to the backplate so the stub axle can't be bent. The outside U bolt on the opposite side doesn't sit tight to the axle and it won't tighten much so it looks like I have a bent axle. The springs are in really bad shape, the 5 leaf fronts never last and the rears aren't much better, they were all fitted new with the chassis change. Now have to decide whether to fit new civvy springs all round or go for parabollics.

No, very definite lean, way more than camber and the wheel bearings are fine. Too hot and sticky to work on it now so going to pub instead!

Just had a look and standing back you can see the front right wheel isn't sticking out, it's leaning out which points to a bent axle or stub axle Will pull the wheels off in a while and have a proper measure up.

I'll have a measure up over the weekend. It's on a galvanised chassis supplied by Marsland about 18 years ago.

Bumper lines up with body. Bushes look fine, nothing's been moving. Axle pads are sitting centrally on the springs

Checked, both rims have same offset.