tweetyduck Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Not the first time i've done one by a long shot but its the first time i've done this one. Just a few things i want to get confirmed as i'm going to time this from scratch as its using a bit too much fuel for my liking. am i correct in that once the locking pin is in the (correct) slot on the flywheel that the engine is always TDC? am i correct that the camshaft gear is in the correct place every time it is opposite the mark and not every second time? Also something new to me is the fact the engine "lumps" over the TDC position rather strongly and i have the spring loaded pin in the wading hole and it bounces past it every time so i need and assistant to help me. I'm not used to it being so hard to get it to stay at TDC. It seems to want to sit one side or the other. Any thoughts on that? Last one sat there like a gud un. A little knowledge is dangerous. Knowing how to do it rather that why you do it is my problem. hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Take the glow plugs out and that will make it easier to turn by hand and will stop it fighting back. The cam rotates at half crank speed, so when the crank is at TDC the cam will either be where you want it or 180 degrees out. Get the crank locked at TDC and see where everything else is in relation to where it should be, get the valve clearances checked too while you're there. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 The lumping over is probably just the effects of compression. Belt change is here - The crank and cam sprockets have a fixed position and their own timing marks in the rear timing case, so is relatively easy to set. The injector pump needs a 9mm drill bit to set the timing, and if all is set ok, then the timing will be set to factory spec. The injector pump sprocket doesn't have a woodruff key, so it's possible that someone could have moved it in order to improve performance or whatever. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 Thanks both. Les apart from the torque setting being wrong (for the belt) in that write up its not really what i'm after but i must admit i used it the first time i did one and then at least once after when I was second guessing myself. The cam does indeed rotate at half speed but if the marker on the cam pully is in the right place then it must be in the correct position for TDC surely. I cannot imagine how it could ever be 180 out which is why i asked the questions. Timing the pump up is not issue its the correct positions for the pullys and if there is ever any chance that they could be in the wrong position if the markers are lined up and the pin is in the bell housing. I cant see that they can but wanted confirmation on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Quote The cam does indeed rotate at half speed but if the marker on the cam pully is in the right place then it must be in the correct position for TDC surely. I cannot imagine how it could ever be 180 out which is why i asked the questions Because the cam is going at half crank speed it is possible to lock the crank at TDC with the cam only half way round a full turn, that's what I was referring to. Yes you are right, get the timing marks lined up and try to lock the crank at TDC assuming all is well with your timing to start with (I get the impression that you are doubting the timing of your engine) it should lock with the tool if the cam is in the right position. With the glow plugs out it will be much easier to turn by hand and won't bump around TDC. This video might be of help to you as it explains how to double check the pump just to be sure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Thanks....now a question for the parts experts. What seal is this. Its in the timing cover and looks part metal, part resin/fibre and part rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 another shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I think it is this. Part number ERR7143, crank seal in the timing cover: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/5622/ERR7143-OIL-SEAL-CRANKSHAFT.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Thanks. i was expecting a simple rubber one. seems like this is the later one so maybe the earlier one is simple rubber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Might be the difference between on that comes in a green box and one that comes in a blue box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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