ciderman Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Morning all, Does anyone have any links or tips on fitting the kickdown cable into the gearbox end on a ZF autobox, Not after set up tips just installment . Cheers Jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 I think it is shown in RAVE though I don't have that installed on this computer. Seem to remember looking at it once and thinking it was not a 5 min job as IIRC it involves taking the valve block out of the gearbox! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88 Nick Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Morning all, Does anyone have any links or tips on fitting the kickdown cable into the gearbox end on a ZF autobox, Not after set up tips just installment . Cheers Jase Yep you've got to drop the valve block to connect the gear box end,Mr Ashcroft replied to a similar quetion from me a while back,I'll see if I can post a link. Hmm cant but here's his reply Hi is there any tension on the cable at all or has it completely flipped off the cam??. If it is off the cam you must fix it asap, the 'kickdown cable' also sets the clutch pack pressure. If you run with the cable dis-connected the clutch pack pressure will be set to minimum resulting in a burn out. The reason for the brass crimp on the cable inner is to stop the cable running back into the box and flipping off the cam, so be sure when you have fixed it to set the crimp. It is very difficult/impossible to re-fit the cable with the valve body in situe, if you do remove the valve body first mark the location front/back as the correct position is critical. Only remove the M6 bolts, ie the ones with the larger heads. DO NOT REMOVE ANY M5 BOLT. When re-fitted it is possible to move the change points a little, start point is to set the cable so you get 'forced- kickdown' as the throttle presses into the carpet. Then loosen the cable to shift earlier or tighten to shift later, no more than 2 or 3 mm each way. Good luck Ian Ashcroft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 Yep you've got to drop the valve block to connect the gear box end,Mr Ashcroft replied to a similar quetion from me a while back,I'll see if I can post a link. Hmm cant but here's his reply Hi is there any tension on the cable at all or has it completely flipped off the cam??. If it is off the cam you must fix it asap, the 'kickdown cable' also sets the clutch pack pressure. If you run with the cable dis-connected the clutch pack pressure will be set to minimum resulting in a burn out. The reason for the brass crimp on the cable inner is to stop the cable running back into the box and flipping off the cam, so be sure when you have fixed it to set the crimp. It is very difficult/impossible to re-fit the cable with the valve body in situe, if you do remove the valve body first mark the location front/back as the correct position is critical. Only remove the M6 bolts, ie the ones with the larger heads. DO NOT REMOVE ANY M5 BOLT. When re-fitted it is possible to move the change points a little, start point is to set the cable so you get 'forced- kickdown' as the throttle presses into the carpet. Then loosen the cable to shift earlier or tighten to shift later, no more than 2 or 3 mm each way. Good luck Ian Ashcroft Cheers Mate , I will give it a go later .Might even get some pics for the tech archive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88 Nick Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Cheers Mate , I will give it a go later .Might even get some pics for the tech archive It's very straight forward,the bolts in mine were the torx headed type,watch out for the face full of ATF as the block comes away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 Yep just removed the unit , 13 bolts in all . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul1 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Yep you've got to drop the valve block to connect the gear box end,Mr Ashcroft replied to a similar quetion from me a while back,I'll see if I can post a link. Hmm cant but here's his reply Hi is there any tension on the cable at all or has it completely flipped off the cam??. If it is off the cam you must fix it asap, the 'kickdown cable' also sets the clutch pack pressure. If you run with the cable dis-connected the clutch pack pressure will be set to minimum resulting in a burn out. The reason for the brass crimp on the cable inner is to stop the cable running back into the box and flipping off the cam, so be sure when you have fixed it to set the crimp. It is very difficult/impossible to re-fit the cable with the valve body in situe, if you do remove the valve body first mark the location front/back as the correct position is critical. Only remove the M6 bolts, ie the ones with the larger heads. DO NOT REMOVE ANY M5 BOLT. When re-fitted it is possible to move the change points a little, start point is to set the cable so you get 'forced- kickdown' as the throttle presses into the carpet. Then loosen the cable to shift earlier or tighten to shift later, no more than 2 or 3 mm each way. Good luck Ian Ashcroft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul1 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Yep you've got to drop the valve block to connect the gear box end,Mr Ashcroft replied to a similar quetion from me a while back,I'll see if I can post a link. Hmm cant but here's his reply Hi is there any tension on the cable at all or has it completely flipped off the cam??. If it is off the cam you must fix it asap, the 'kickdown cable' also sets the clutch pack pressure. If you run with the cable dis-connected the clutch pack pressure will be set to minimum resulting in a burn out. The reason for the brass crimp on the cable inner is to stop the cable running back into the box and flipping off the cam, so be sure when you have fixed it to set the crimp. It is very difficult/impossible to re-fit the cable with the valve body in situe, if you do remove the valve body first mark the location front/back as the correct position is critical. Only remove the M6 bolts, ie the ones with the larger heads. DO NOT REMOVE ANY M5 BOLT. When re-fitted it is possible to move the change points a little, start point is to set the cable so you get 'forced- kickdown' as the throttle presses into the carpet. Then loosen the cable to shift earlier or tighten to shift later, no more than 2 or 3 mm each way. Good luck/?????????? Hi have the same problem, kick down cable keeps flipping off the cam. I do not understand what you mean by the 'brass crimp' could you explain exactly where this is please and how to adjust it correctly. Also, should there be any slack in the throttle cable? I adjusted the throttle cable and the kick down cable flipped off in the gearbox !??????????????????????? PLEASE HELP!!! PAUL Ian Ashcroft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul1 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 I have the same problem, kick down cable keeps flipping off the cam. I do not understand what you mean by the 'brass crimp' could you explain exactly where this is please and how to adjust it correctly. Also, should there be any slack in the throttle cable? I adjusted the throttle cable and the kick down cable flipped off in the gearbox !??????????????????????? PLEASE HELP!!! PAUL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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