bodumatau
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Posts posted by bodumatau
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Greetings All, my fun drive is a 1983 110 Hardtop with a RR mega squirted efi that I have run for the past 10 years on an ashcroft R380 and 1,667 transfer box.
has been a LOT of fun, mainly short commutes, lots of forest work, awesome having a vehicle that drives like a race car and is a working mule all in high range.
my mission profile is changing in the next few years and I would like to do some exploring around europe and hence my question to all of you..... wise V8 owners.....
should I go for the standard 1,4 transfer case or should I jump in the deep end and put a 1,2 ration transfer case in?
vehicle is relatively light, no hard top roof on and will never have much more than spare wheel, recovery gear, luggage, tent and very light camping gear and a couple days food. no big overland rig or roof rack or the like, my madame prefers staying in B&B or hotel and the camping gear will be for the odd trail night where we don't make it to the next destination (well this is the story I have told her 😉 )
got standard 235/85R16 wheels on
my excel ratio calculator tells me that with a 1,2 I will be at 2000rpm for 96kph and 2500 for 120kph which is about the max speed I would drive at.
with a 1,4 I would be at 2500 for 103kph and 3000 for 123kph
currently with the 1,667 I am at 3000 for 104kph and 3500 for 122kph
next question would be whether it is worth it putting an ATB into the transfer case? mission profile would primarily be tar road with the odd bit of off-road.
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On 9/17/2021 at 5:56 PM, Mutley said:
@bodumatau and so it begins, the list of "Where's it coming from???" and "How to STOP it???".
Those happy days of paddling in the foot well rinsing your socks and cleaning your shoes, contemplating the amount of condensation and it's flow rate to the volume of paper towels to soak it up!?! And then not forgetting mould and the debate of whether it will actually develop mushrooms or fungus!?!
Sometimes I just leave the windows open for fun in the rainy season!
Mate of mine with a 110 SWA searched himself silly for a leak at passenger side where roof joins windscreen, it turns out it came from the REAR corner of thw roof where a previous repair had caused damage and it ran ALL the way to the front leak on his wife's knee 🤣
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one IMPORTANT thing to remember @ThreePointFive, if you seal the bottom of the doors or your footwell then WHERE is the water going to get out when it leaks in through the roof? 😎
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no idea if you can run Petrol through the pump, it might be that the lubrication that diesel provides is part of what makes the pump work.
what I do know is that the TD5 fuel pump is not the most reliable fuel pump around, we have regular failures on the td5 fuel pump in our fleet.
you definitely want to have a hole in your rear floor to be able to access the pump when it does die.
perhaps try it out, pump a couple of tanks full of petrol back and forth to a drum and see if the pump lives through it....I would certainly be interested to know if it does work, got a couple of TD5 fuel tanks and chassis lying around that are asking to get a V8 thrown at them.
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also check your fuse box under the seat, the brown 12V + feed wire sometimes breaks off inside its insulation and gives intermittent results.
check all your relays, TD5's love corroding the relays and causing problems
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On 7/29/2020 at 11:52 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
If it's a Range Rover EFi pump it's entirely possible, you need to work on the loom plug orientation not the wire colours.
does anyone know the name of the loom plug that these pumps come with? can you buy the plug with wires to splice it into the loom?
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PRC8318 ordered and received in its Britpart box (Britpart is actually a bit of a lie unless "Brit" is a province in China)
modified the pump to get to the bottom of my tank, switched it on, it made a whizzing noise but the V8 did not start....
put the output through a clear tube and noticed that it was trying (badly) to suck fuel out of the fuel can when I switched it on....
turned the polarity around and it pumped like a beaut..... seems the factory in the province "brit" wired up the pumps the wrong way around...
unless now brown wires are earth and blue are positive?
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also remember to seal all holes possible in the seat boxes, if you drive with open windows then your cab is at a low pressure and you "suck" all the hot air into the cabin.
I often drive with the dash vents open and the windows closed and the seat box temp drops dramatically - one of those land rover quirks.
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pump still intermittent ..... aarrgghhh, so maybe I havent found the fault....luckily a new fuel pump on its way....albeit slowly as the couriers are Corona crippled.
another question, actually 2
MSDROID - can you adjust the whole fuelling map by a certain percentage with MSDROID PRO? with the free version you can only adjust the fuel map points one by one.
TD5 exhaust - since replacing my standard V8 exhaust (comes out the side) with the TD5 tailpipe I am getting a lot more fumes, I only drive my land without a roof on so never any cab of any sort, it is a 110 hardtop body. - is this why the V8 had its exit to the side? has anyone else experienced this problem? -
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a little update to the project..
Cummins SA is in the final stages of the installation and has taken the vehicle to the test track for some testing.
they hook it up to a truck with a gearbox retarder so they can push the engine to max power and max torque output and then check if the temperatures stabilise under constant load.
Cummins team was happy with the temps achieved and using some math will be calculating the Limiting Ambient Operating temperature (important for us in Botswana where 45 degrees in the shade happens every year)
this is what it looks like
next is to try the standard TD5 cooling pack (radiator and intercooler) and see if they can achieve the same results
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fluctuating temperature on the TD5 is often an indication of intermittent power or low voltage or poor earth - sometimes it seems to read "lower" and sometimes it will spike up into the red for a few seconds and then back to normal.
check your feed wires into the fuse box under the seat
check your earth straps
could also be the dreaded oil in the engine harness causing voltage havoc in the ECU
check whether your alternator is charging - sometimes the charge wires break off inside the insulation - causing it to work sometimes and sometimes not, very frustrating.
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got tired of waiting for parts to be delivered...... dug out my old fuel pump that sounded like a 10 year old lawn mower when it ran..... and it still made noises when I attached it to 12V...... so having an option I decided to take out the defective fuel pump out of the tank and install my old one...... at least to get back on the road.
being someone who fiddles I took a closer look at the fuel pump when it was out of the tank and I think I found the problem why the pump stopped working.......
this filter was not properly sealing onto the pump, I think I knocked it off while installing the pump or while extending the pipe to get to the bottom of my defender tank
then I found something else out.... "fuel pipe" might be fully fuel resistant at its inner core but the outer core might not be, the pipe I had used to extend the pump when installing was delaminating and the outer core was soft and swelled up.
once the pump was dried out and had no residual fuel I tested whether the supply wires had continuity, all good, then I tried the pump on 12V and suddenly it worked, it had had something jam it inside because the filter was not on properly.
then I took the time to use parts of my old fuel pump to properly extend the support frame to get the fuel pump to the correct length so that I dont run out of fuel with 5ltrs still left in the tank.
and finally carefully installed the fuel pump again hoping that I didn't knock off the fuel filter this time around.
@Hybrid_From_Hell - Nige my mumble apologies for cussing you via PM that your pump stopped working..... it still WORKS 🤩
hope this helps someone fault finding their fuel pump issues.
oh one more thing, when you have the fuel pump out of the tank and busy extending etc.... be careful....the fuel pump has a very strong magnet, so if you put the pump down on a dusty workbench it picks up a handful of iron filings you didn't know you were storing on the workbench and you then spend the next 30 min cleaning them off 🙄
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swerving wildly? tie rod broken or tie rod end broken, this joins the two wheels together cause your steering wheel only steers "one" wheel. had this happen to me on a dirt road and it was barely controllable.
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110 with steel tank
On 7/4/2020 at 1:41 PM, FridgeFreezer said:Without knowing anything about your vehicle I can't say - if you have the earlier style steel fuel tank mounted in the rear (same as Range Rover / Discovery) then yes that's the pump.
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so its the PRC8318 then "Fuel pump - high pressure - EFI to GA464553"
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its broken !!!
fuel pump as dead as a doornail
which fuel pump is better for the Megasquirt efi?
PRC7020 or PRC8318?
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thanks 8pot, I would probably buy one of the german ones made out of Stainless as my vehicle is registered in germany and I need a special paper to get the vehicle through the TÜV (german MOT)
I see most of them seem to have the outflow pipe about halfway down the tank, do they then have another smaller drain pipe that connects to the fuel tank sump? or how does one use the lower bit of fuel?
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3 hours ago, western said:
Quite possibly because no body has written a thread about fitting one of the tanks.
Wow Western, this feels like finding a new continent!!! something Land Rover related that has NOT BEEN DISCUSSED on this forum, a TRULY rare thing 😉😎
does anyone out there have one of these tanks installed?
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Greetings all, maybe I am being a bit thick and not using the right search words..... but I can't seem to find any threads on the 45ltr fender tanks that fit into the 110 in the empty space in the right rear fender.
any opinions or tips on these tanks? I am considering fitting one to my V8 110
part number seems to be DA4545 and for the later models DA4546
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On 3/28/2020 at 11:17 PM, Dr Strangeglove said:
Did you ever sort this. I like to know what is behind so I can read the road situation.
nope I didn't, but...
On 3/29/2020 at 11:28 AM, Eightpot said:Range Rover classic mirrors give a full width rear view - you can pop the mirror head off the ball mount and swap them onto a Defender mirror arm.
it seems eight pot has a solution, do you have a part number for me 8pot?
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Muts I would see the biggest challenge getting it back in carefully and gently and not damaging the new seal between ball and axle, set up some kind of overhead lift system that you can adjust without effort when the heavy lump is hanging on it.
** dont forget the big hammer, anvil and COLD beer
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22 hours ago, western said:
Transfer box off, intermediate shaft & gears out, bearings removed, No big damage to transfer case,
Only damage is the rear bearing which has broken up, front bearing is in one piece but had roller damage,
smooth the sharp edges off with some 1000grit sandpaper and they good to go again, I say put them back in....they didn't seem to be making much noise anyway 🤷♂️
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Mutley, give your chassis spring mount a good cleaning with a wire brush and check very carefully for cracks, they tend to crack on the outside corners first.
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Soutie, you can also win probably 2,5-3cm steering wheel space, if you loosen all the bolts through the firewall and push the whole contraption towards the middle of the car it makes a huge difference to not bashing your elbow on the windscreen each time you turn a corner, I am slightly bigger than the average human and it made a big difference for me.
Cummins team was happy with the temps achieved and using some math will be calculating the Limiting Ambient Operating temperature (important for us in Botswana where 45 degrees in the shade happens every year)
next is to try the standard TD5 cooling pack (radiator and intercooler) and see if they can achieve the same results
transfer case ratio for 1983, 110 V8 pickup
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
yeah sorry guys, should have put down all the facts
it has a 3,5 and a ATB ashcroft rear diff, it is VERY peppy !! 😎 through a traffic circle gunning it it will understeer and pick up the inner front wheel, lots of fun even if it isnt completely social behaviour 🤣.
I rarely tow on tar and if then something light like a glider trailer at 1,6t, any off-road work in the forest I am a happy low range user, need to let those little gears work too
oh and I rarely use 1st gear when town driving anyway so I do think my 1,667 is overgeared. remember she is very light, no body and no roof rack etc.
I think the consensus is the same as I was leaning towards which is the 1,4 transfer case, thanks to everyone who took the time to help out with info 🙏