bodumatau
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Posts posted by bodumatau
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are there any better rear view mirrors out there?? I can hardly see more than half a car out of mine and thats without any roof on!!
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the knob says "diff lock" on it which confuses many people.
gear lever to the REAR of the car and on the RIGHT is HIGH RANGE and NO DIFFLOCK
gear lever to the FRONT of the car and on the RIGHT is LOW RANGE and NO DIFFLOCK
gear lever to the REAR of the car and on the LEFT is HIGH RANGE and WITH DIFFLOCK
gear lever to the FRONT of the car and on the LEFT is LOW RANGE and WITH DIFFLOCK
both LEFT and RIGHT have a "NEUTRAL" position midway between front and rear which is not really neutral but not in gear either. This is one of the biggest weaknesses on the LT230, many people don't use their clutch and gear to "feel" the high or low range in resulting it slipping out when they apply power, this quickly damages gears.
DIFF LOCK is only locking the CENTRAL differential, ONLY for surfaces soft enough that your wheels can slip a little, be it gravel or grass or sand or whatever BUT NOT EVER ON TAR
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I still have 2 little problems with the start.
she starts fine, much better than before on the Flapper system, I have managed to stop the "die after start" problem.....but.....she is almost impossible to drive within the first minute as she just dies if I don't rev the carp out of it, very throttle sensitive and a little too much throttle and she dies
any tips or ideas where I should start?
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ok, well I have adjusted it and did a tuning run, it adjusted quite a few of my fuel chart parameters leaner but unfortunately didn't seem to change my performance much.
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fixed angle? you lost me there....
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ok so my spark table says I idle at 11 degrees, confirm that is 11 BTDC? so I need to adjust that trim box till my pulley is showing 11 degrees?
sorry I am a bit thick about this sort of thing. its the passive Lysdexia....
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help please, .... I did see a section of one of the posts that explained how to adjust or correct for a small timing error but I can seem to find it now.
I have checked my timing for the first time with a timing gun and found that it fires 3 "notches" on the land rover timing indicator BEFORE TDC. *edit* once warm settles at 2 notches before TDC (yes checked that the plate is correct) which is 6 degrees BTDC
1. how many degrees is this (I don't think one notch is 1 degree)? *edit* figured it out, 1 notch is 3 degrees!!
2. is this right? how do I adjust it on TS if not?
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Yep only ever seen one size rear anti roll bar and I have 15 on my 150's and another 15 on my trailers..
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6mm piping on mine
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mine also didn't start first try, I turned the VR sensor wires around and she fired first go.
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anyone have the RH latch part number for me? tried the numbers close to the above part number but don't think it was right.
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doesn't look like the low fuel light gauge is connected, lug is there but no wires inside....
maybe I need to ask this question another way around, which sensor is the right sensor for gauge PRC7313?
I suspect I might have the wrong sensor? only thing that makes sense, which would mean my old gauge is working fine just wrong sensor?
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awesome Pete, thanks for that, immediately put it on my excel list of many needed parts so it can't be lost
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yes that happens, 12V thru the gauge gives me full tank, then I plug it all in, move the sensor to full tank and get gauge saying full tank, then slowly take it down to empty and the gauge doesn't get less than half tank......
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ahh the bad earth, story of the Land Rover....
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i think it depends more on your load, in an empty defender double shocks are not pleasant, knock your teeth out of your head via the seat of your pants,.....but.... loaded....a dream.
I tried double front shocks on my 143" double cab, its a full size double cab (rear door same size as front door) and a full Hi-cap bin and ended up taking them off as it was unpleasant
but in the rear it makes all the difference. you can run a lighter spring because you don't bottom out, so you not overcompensating with your spring because of bad shocks....which is so often the case.
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I tried several different kinds of "better" shocks, started with OME and worked though the big bore options, and ended up with the same problem on all of them, tearing out the mounting on either the ring side or the bolt side.....this is for my 150" converted vehicles in Botswana btw, seriously bad roads, thick sand, heavy loads, pulling trailers, the whole hog......
then I started converting them to double rear shocks..... and what a pleasure, all chassis till now I have drilled have the tubes in place for bolting on the shock mounting rear of the axle, with the usual land rover exactness of about half and inch variance.....then I weld a second shock mounting plate onto the axle at the back, made out of 3 pieces of 50x6mm flatbar, shaped correctly. then I stick normal cheap shocks in and they work so much better than any "heavy duty" or "big bore" single shock it is like day and night.....cost very little to replace, last longer than the "big bores".
makes for a much more stable ride, bushes and bolts and bump rubbers and springs all last longer.....
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thanks Vulcan, thought there was a cleverer solution than me hitting it with a Sledge hammer....., be trying that. think I got it wrong in my rush to get my trf box back in when I replaced it.....or just stupidly copied the same position of the old trf box lever without thinking it thru..... no pills for stupid....
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hmm, can't seem to find that MUC1301 online, any tips, have checked padlock and craddock and co
@mat2495 - Jeez those strikers cost more than the latches.....anyone want to make a quick million? lets make a few of the latches and sell them.....
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yep I have the bearmach one in, any way to test the gauge?
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yes that was my plan (my plans usually involve big hammers or red hot metal) so I was wondering if there was a more.....ahm.....refined solution
before I grab the sledge hammer
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I have these on my soft top and wanted to replace them with new ones but can't seem to find the right parts.
they are quite ingenious as they don't have the classic "claw" which then tries its best to eat away at the striker post but rather a plate that slides up behind the striker post and so has a larger surface area and doesn't wear away so quickly.
the striker post knocks this little tab back (end of screwdriver)
which then allows this plate to slide up behind the striker post (under the screwdriver)
and finally the striker post is caught behind the plate like the screwdriver
anyone have a part number for me?
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the funny thing is that with ear defenders on you can actually hear what your passenger says.....
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Maybe I am just being thick or maybe this is the wrong part but my transfer box lever is so close to the gear lever that when I am in Low and select 2nd, 4th or reverse it knocks the trf box out of gear...
here is a pic of the trf box in Low and the gear lever in neutral
does anyone know what is wrong or how to fix this? (before I start tearing the bits apart)
Better Rear View mirror?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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lights and dim and electronic I don't need, just a wider field of view
i think mine was designed only to look out a small back door with a spare tyre mounted on it, and even that would be too big