bodumatau
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Posts posted by bodumatau
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which tuning guide?
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ok so have a tuner studio light version running on a windows laptop, have calibrated my TPS, but still not revving properly on the throttle inputs.
here are some pics of the dials on tunerstudio
and here the tuner studio data log
can anyone help me with some tips?
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AARGGHH!! now my ECU is not talking to my MEGATUNE again!!! first i thought it was USB-serial adaptor related but now I am getting the same error on a laptop with a serial port..... the very same laptop was working great 2 nights ago.....
the 3 LED's on the back of the ECU, what do they mean? I get the two closest to the serial plug light up at start, then the middle one goes off, and the furthest one lights up briefly when I depress the accelerator pedal.
also... when I give throttle the engine first "hesitates" then revs, if I give a sharp throttle input it dies, it seems to "follow" only if I throttle slowly.
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fuel setting, aahm, yes, good question, I have no idea
still in the learning process what all of this fuddle duddle means, bought the kit from Nigel so assumed that all was programmed ready for a 3.5V8
I did see a strange value in a fuel "box" but can't remember if it was the fuel delivery, it was something like 1$", too scared to start changing things until I have a better grasp of what goes where.
does anyone have a basic set of parameters that a 3.5V8 should operate on? once I have these I can fiddle and if I mess it up come back to these.
@Bowie, had a look at the tunerstudio MS, but being a Mac user still struggling to installed, so chugging on with megatune at the moment.
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Bowie any idea on the huge duty cycle?
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Well my TPS is truly FUBAR now, after trying to get it out to test it and completely destroying it
Will my old TPS from the flapper plenum work? If I set it up in megatune ?
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ok, got it running,
1. the knocking sound is gone, not going to tell what it was except that I am a world class idiot.....
2. the error with Megatune was the USB-serial connection, got it working with a serial laptop from the neighbour.
running pretty nicely now, still need to sort out my pWM tubing etc, loom is coming out so that I can tape it up.
two current problems are
1. TPS only gets to a max of 13% at max throttle, and the TPS only "sees" the throttle right at the end of its travel, tried to set the TPS position in the Megatune settings and it gets to a max value of 31, supposed to be close to 255, is my TPS broken?
2. the "duty cycle" shows extremely high values, thousands of percent? what causes this?
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ok, so its running..... but not great.
1. making a "knocking sound" which doesn't sound great....
2. somehow my Megatune doesn't want to connect to my ECU, well it does "connect" but ten immediately this fault comes up and my megatune program freezes up.
any tips or ideas?
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Could you turn the plenum around?
thought about this too Quaggy, but then I have the plenum too close to the rocker cover for the heater pipes to pass
I think I am going to use the Flapper LHD throttle frame with the hotwire plenum and figure out a way to sort the tubing out.
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ok but if the stepper motor is closed then the Bosch PWM I have won't work? cause it can't feed air through the "closed" stepper motor
are there bolt on adapters with a pipe for the Bosch PWM or must I fabricate one?
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while my wiring is coming along nicely (says he who hasn't tried to start the engine yet
) .....I need some help or suggestions with my throttle linkage and PWM fitting.
Because my 110 is LHD the brake servo is on the "wrong" side, giving me a lot less space for the induction piping.
routing it to the front is also not an option cause that is full with alternator and steering pump bits.
here is my old throttle linkage and you can see it leaves no space for the PWM to be fitted.
here is the throttle linkage that came with the hotwire plenum (think it was off a disco of sorts but def a RHD cause it leaves me no space for induction piping.
and my final question, at the back of the Plenum is an original LR PWM bolted on, this has a plug with 4 terminals, and if I try blow through it it's closed, so if I hook up my Bosch PWM to this will it work? what does the PWM do anyway?
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well then I'll just have 2 spare wires in my loom, also not a bad thing
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decision time has begun.
I have decided to run a shielded wire for my PIP and SAW (Fridge Freezer I am not second guessing you but rather think that maybe we can compare graphs later and then see if the shielded PIP and SAW wires achieve anything)
but at the same time I am leaving the pink SAW and Slate/Grey PIP wire in the loom as "extras", never know ;-)
I have separated the relay and ecu wires, run each one through its own gland seal, then a third gland seal for the vacuum pipe.
next the soldering of the ECU plug and then I can start fitting it all into the Landy.
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hi Shane
I was in your shoes 4 days ago, read my post the guys have been super helpful on the forum with questions I have had, interested to read and work with you on our "parallel build"
which engine type are you converting? also a "flapper" like mine, or do you have a hotwire or thor system?
as I understand it your injector loom is going from a total of 16 wires down to 3.
1. one wire is the power feed wire to the Injectors from the Main relay (Brown/Yellow), this joins to all 8 brown yellow wires at the back of the Injector loom
2. second wire is your left Injector batch trigger wire which brings the signal from ECU to fire (by earthing the wire thru the ecu), this is Green/Slate, join 4 to 1 and then back to 2 at the ECU to spread the load through the pins.
3. third wire is the right Injector batch, same asa above, this time Slate/red, 4 wires to 1and then back to 2 at the ecu.
if you go through Nigels post you will find a section about joining several wires together.
3.
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I also found on the megatune manual a diagram showing a shielded wire for the PIP and SAW wires between the EDIS and ECU, Nigel was quite generous with his shielded wire so I think I might just replace the pink and slate/orange with shielded.
1. Fridge Freezer? is this necessary? what are the disadvantages of not shielding these wires?
2. I did see the original ford wiring was shielded ?
3. what is the little ford plug thingy on pin 3 (SAW)? a capacitor? it looks too small to be a 12V ->5V voltage reducer? do i leave it inline or take it out?
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aha, the secret of the mystery diode comes out!! now I understand....
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yes good idea, never hinge it down so actually don't need the hinge, funny how one goes blind about some things..... just because there is a hinge on there...... ....duhh -
That may be, but vaseline is the one always recommended. If you struggle to get an injector rail out then you need to grow a few muscles, frankly. Never had one stick on me, nothing that a quick yank wouldn't sort out.
haha loving it, not often people tell me to grow a few muscles
usually they telling me to stop breaking things. -
Vaseline is a handy workshop substance, great for electrical connectors too.
This is how I did my wiring on t'ambulance (if the forum software allows the image link):
thanks Fridge Freezer, looks like I need to start figuring out how to send a case of ice cold beer to the UK as thanks
your sketch is exactly what I had in mind except that I have a main relay feeding the coil and injectors so that the ignition only has to drive the main relay trigger. (as per nigels diagram, modified with your advice)
I hear you about the main FUSE, have bought myself a FAT HUGE MONSTER fuse holder which I am going to put onto my live bus bar (I have one of those scary live points on the firewall fed by a 16mm wire from the battery and starter.... all unfused..... yay..... I just imagine something touching that and my engine compartment getting free welding lessons..... so will be much happier once that fuse is in...... I bough a 40A and a 50A, hoping the 40 will be enough.
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Vaseline
Petroleum jelly, so it just dissolves
Bowie the internets argument is that the PTFE grease stays on the O-rings and therefore makes it easier to take apart in future whereas the vaseline just dissolves and disappears and then you fight to get them apart.
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on another note, I am getting my new o-rings for my injectors tomorrow so then I can put my fuel rail and injectors in, is there something with which it is best to lubricate the injector o-rings? so I don't have to fight with the fuel rail like I did taking it off?
can I use silicon spray?
WD40 I would think is oil based so might make the o-rings swell and perish?
spose I could use fuel but that evaporates too quickly
**edit - after some searching on the net it seems the best is PTFE grease (white grease) and second best seems to be Vaseline.
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thanks Maverik, Mike and Mo for the feedback.
Maveri- I know those spikes, my grinder loves them
, grind them off when I build my BIG windscreens for my game drive vehicles in Botswana.Mike & Mo - I too have been thinking about the hinge idea, I think having looked at the hinges that the bolts don't line up, they seem somehow offset so I think I will have to make my own hinge.
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Fridge Freezer your help is invaluable, thanks for taking the time
ok so then I could run the ECU feed (blue/yellow), the PWM (Orange) and the EDIS feed (blue yellow to pin 6) ALL off the white switched 12V BEFORE it gets to the relay and fuse the switched 12v with a 3A fuse. make sense?
does it then also make sense to run 2 wires for each injector loom to the ECU for the trigger/earth? will this help spread the load thru the pins? or doesn't it matter?
I am definitely running at least 4x1mm from the ECU to a nice fat earth that is directly connected to the battery.
also my EDIS and Lambda are connecting to this common earth (looks like a 16mm wire so plenty of earth there)
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so now that my megasquirt build is chugging along nicely I need to try get my head around my next project.
my V8 is a 110 and I have taken the roof off and drive it either completely open or with a little "bikini" top to keep the rain off my head. half doors, no door tops.
because I am a large chap I have fitted 30mm seat lifters and this had made a big difference to the driving comfort .... BUT..... now when I stop at the lights I need to duck down to see them!!!
so I was thinking about lifting my windscreen by 30mm or so
- I know the door tops will no longer fit - happy with this - roof won't fit either - also happy with this.
- has anyone done this?
- thinking about using the same hinge but just lifting the bottom bolt to the top one and putting a flatbar plate under to join to the bottom hole.
anyone has any ideas? suggestions?
for the "spacer" I am thinking of simply welding up a 30mm square tube to fit the profile
) .....
yes good idea, never hinge it down so actually don't need the hinge, funny how one goes blind about some things..... just because there is a hinge on there...... 
3.5 efi Flapper to Megasquirt conversion
in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt
Posted
as Fridge so eloquently put it RTFM!!
getting there, albeit slowly, I think my PWM valve that Nige sent me is not working, it doesn't ever seem to open and my engine only idles at around 400rpm unless I open one of the small spare air inlets into the Plenum, then it idles at 1100 and is stable, so I am thinking the PWM is not letting enough air through at idle
my hesitating acceleration seems to have been my injector timing that was at 1.0ms, put it up to 1,2ms and suddenly everything started happening much more smoothly.
so I continue to
and hope I can understand