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Yostumpy

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Posts posted by Yostumpy

  1. Check the fuel lift pump. If it is a delphi one, there is a small screw on the top, undo this and remove the top, and inside is a gauze filter. bet its blocked with crud. Carefully prize it out, and clean in white spirit or deisel.. Also the fuel filter could be due for a replacement.

  2. I can readily believe the 40mpg bit. Wallace's avg is a 'fraction' under 30mpg, mixed use, no real long journeys, a lot or sub 5 miles. (300tdi) and I too sit in the slow lane, behind trucks most of the time (aerodynamic, and a grat regulator of speed). A great improvement from the 26.5 avg I had been getting for the previous 4 years. I just completely changed my driving style. My best was 35 mpg on a trip back from Dorset with a side/tailwind, and having removed my roofrack, but a lot of over 30's have followed. This is with a std t/box, so with a lowered gearing i'd say this was perfectly feasible. My only doubt as to the conversion itself is the aerodynamics/power curve. Ie with a 1.2 ftted, to cruise at the optimum revs (1800rpm) one would have to be travelling 10mph faster than with a 1.4 box, but in doing so , the air pressure is increased dramaticaly, thus negating some of the gain.

  3. I always use rangemasters, but was contemplating getting some General SAG next time. Now when you looked at the reviews of these tyres, you prob read about the old 'xply' super all grip type, used on series trucks, a bit like dumper tyres, but take a look at paddocks at the 'SAG' radial. A VERY different tyre, and was standard Landrover fitment to the South African market, for 90/110, so bound to be good and 'tough as ol' boots'.

    Alternatively there is the Michelin xzl, available as new 'take off' for reasonable sums, but prob not a m/way tyre.

  4. I can remember when I were a lad (about 14) me 'ad a suzuki scramble bike, (TC 90 for the anally retentive), and my dad had an 88", we used to get it in the back no probs. We had 2 bits of wood, first was wide and thick and long, the other was wide and thick and shorter. Lay the long one up to the rear floor, with the door open, turn bike around so goes in rear end first, push bike up ramp, then when sump almost level with rear of floor, lift front forks, and place wood no. 2 across the wheel boxes under the sump plate, then wheel can hang over rear and bars twist to one side. obviously strap down as well, but obviously you cant shut the door.

  5. Had this with the n/s one a couple of years ago. I found that behind the fuse box is a large multi pin connector. Water had gotten in? via condensation from screen etc etc. and the n/s dipped light wire connection was black and burnt out. Run a + lead from battery to the light . If it it works, then don't bother buggering about, just run a new wire from the fuse. and disconnect the old one.

  6. A little OT but whilst on the supposed S*%tpart debate, I needed a new brake vacuum pump. So I started looking at prices, and found a Wabco at a very reasonable £83 +vat. BUT I had read some shocking reports of these pumps, not only from uk forums, but the more I delved, in LRZA and Aulro _(south Aff, and Aus) I found wabco pumps have a BAD name, But they are OE. So I phoned to place an order for the OE wabco, and the chap basically said they are STILL a prob. When (not if ) they are sent back, the suppliers don't really want to know. So I opted for a Britpart one at £50+vat, with a 2 year warranty NQA, and was told even if you come back after 2 years and 1 month , we'll still replace it. So long as it works, doesn't tick, doesn't leak, i'm a happy bunny. I went for a lucas TRW servo as well, as thats cracked x2. I'll let you know if's its tosh, but somehow I doubt it.

  7. Been there, done that sort of - TR7 V8 convertible, properly sorted, but those wheel nuts and sitting in diesel fumes....

    My mid life crisis led me to a NCF Sahara, using our old mechanically perfect Disco and rebuilding for longevity we should have the best of both worlds - 100" wheelbase (no IVA), Disco cabin and comfort, Defender(ish) looks. Light weight so the 300 TDi should give adequate(ish) performance with simple mechanicals, and Nick will build pretty much what you want. We'll keep the Disco and, perhaps, the 90 but that depends on how good a job I do on the Sahara!

    PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  8. This kind of thing seems to be infectious - I've just sold my passat, and seem to be buying a triumph spitfire... Still, it does mean I'll have a soft-top for that one afternoon of summer.

    We too have a Spitty, a MK 1V. was nice but its sat in the garage for prob 5 years now, needs a new spring. NOT that much fun , and quite scary on the open road, looking UP at lorry chassis as they pass you by.!

  9. Well..... what a difference! Started at 6pm, up on stands, removed shocks, removed springs, removed self leveller. Fitted RKB101111 to each side and a pair of new Armstrong shocks. Torqued everything up and put the wheels back on. This was 8pm. Its sat 2 inches higher than immediately before the spring change. Took it for a spin. Not too bouncy and handles well. It leans a bit more if I go into a corner with more vigour than I should, but that's not normal driving! So, all in all, seems like a good move at the moment. I'll have to load it up and see what its like then, but I doubt it will sink as low as it was unladen on the old springs.

    well done. Re the leaning, this is why i went for wolf springs, as NO roll, and corners as if on rails. You notice the difference when walking about on the roof rack,

    If I am allowed to say, there is a sticky on the land rover addicts forum about what people have fitted to their 110, with wheel arch dims to judge lift. (in the defender section)

  10. A regular rythmical ticking can sometimes be a slightly kinked or squashed speedo cable, open the bonnet and locate the cable and tug it a bit.

    another solution is a bit of previous windscreen or a screw stuck down twixt dash board and bulkhead, right at the front in the front crevass. i had some glass down there, took me 2 years to find the noise, only happenend on roundabouts and over 50mph where the air pressure on the front of the bulkhead effectively squashed the gap.

  11. decided to look at this another way? A mathematical way, say 190 miles tot , with 75 very localised urban driving.

    75 is APPROX 1/3 of total, therefore say....... 75 miles at 28.0mpg

    therefore 28 + 31.5 + 31.5 =91 divided by 3 ................= 30.3mpg


    so one can assume that my trip to margate netted me about 31.3mpg which brought up the lower comuting avg. Still awake!!!

  12. having reflected on this, 30mpg is not to be sniffed at, and the road down to margate is flat, 2 years ago i'd have sold my granny to get 30mpg, and now its not enough? oh dear. I think that without its extra fuelling the optimum speed on t'open road is about 62mpg, whereas with fuelling happy at 56mph. Its lovelly to drive in both modes, Oh why don't I have a proper regular job, .say 30 miles away!

    But then 75 miles of ithe tank was very urban commute, t/lights,1/ 2 mile trips to wickes etc.

  13. Ok another update. filled up at 190 miles, 75 of which were local running about, rest a trip down to margate...... Not as good as i'd have hoped, avg was only 30mpg. i think the lack of extra grunt that the turbo gives with the extra fuelling , means longer in gear getting up to speed, whereas best way is hard and quick. i shall give it one more then put the pipe back on. If I comuted a set distance,every day I could do some more acurate a-b-a testing. So ultimately it looks like a no go. Shame really.

  14. Your making me feel better and how would I find out if the previous owner had tweaked the fuel pump as it seems to pull like a train compared to other 300tdi's I've driven? Thanks

    Of course , if you put your foot to the floor , it will go well. Are you saying you want to achieve better milage? or are you saying you drive it hard , and is 24mpg about right in these circumstances? I am a bit confused.

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