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Posts posted by garymorris
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1 hour ago, western said:
TE110061L
item 2 on page 209 in 200Tdi parts flywheel housing
Nice one, thank you Ralph 👍
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Afternoon Folks,
just wondering if anybody would have a part no for the bell housing to gearbox studs on a 200tdi, I appear to either lost mine or there weren’t many in to start ?
admin, apologies if I’ve posted on the wrong forum/part
cheers
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I’ve got a lidl one, can’t fault it 👍
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Hi Jeff,
ive got the 180amp version, got it about 8 years ago, brilliant bit of kit with plenty of power.
run kemppi welders in my workshop making steel framed buildings, absolutely love em
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On 4/18/2020 at 8:48 AM, missingsid said:
The aim of the design is to narrow the axle end to end, what you tried to do was to get both sides to a common width by mixing up the parts.
One complaint is that the newer narrow hubs have the two bearing races closer together so arguably they will not work so well with wider than standard wheels and tyres or larger wheel offsets?
Yes that’s exactly what I was thinking 😳
Having tried the different drive member and then looking at the spline lengths of the different cv’s/halfshafts, have got it sussed now 😃
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On 4/13/2020 at 8:57 PM, Daan said:
they are fitted correctly in the picture; the flange is thicker and the hub is wider on early models. I much prefer the earlier version, as there is more engagement on the splines, and the bearings are further apart, which makes it better suited to large wheel offsets. Also, on the front, it will have a stronger CV. Disadvantage is that alloys don't fit, if this is your thing.
Daan
Thank you, I guess somebody has bolted on a swivel etc from a newer axle.
i’ve got my head around it all now, thank goodness.
im going to order a new drive shaft, hub and stub axle.
I’m like you prefer the older style as the wheel bearings are a bit further apart so hopefully a bit stronger.
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11 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
Yes, the thicker one is the early type and is what your 200Tdi vehicle would have had from the factory.
The hubs, drive members, stub axles and CVs (driveshaft) all changed at the switchover from early to late (1993/1994 ish) and so need to all be the same type for it to fit together.
So I’ve got the drive member and hubs the right way round then James ?
i did try the thicker drive member on the shorter hub but it was loose and the thinner drive member wouldn’t fit inside the taller hub.
If so it’s obviously the longer stub axles ?
Cheers
Gary
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Afternoon Lockdown Land Rover Buffs,
i‘m rebuilding a front axle (I think the axle was off a 200 tdi 90) and I’ve discovered I have a different type stub axle and hub on one side compared to the other.
I’m guessing one is an early and one is late,
the strange thing is that I’d imagine that the thicker driving member would fit the shorter hub ? But it won’t
can anybody help and explain the difference in hubs ?
many thanks
Gary
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I’m going to change the engine in my 52 plate disco, my question is do I need to get another engine which is the same P (ie 10P ,15P) or does it not matter and I can code the injectors using Hawkeye
thanks in advance
Gary
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@Tanuki, I wouldn’t say the fuel pump was excessively noisy, I couldn’t hear it from the drivers seat (I went to the back when it was purging and could hear It )
i’ll change the fuel filter and see if that helps
thanks
Gary
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4 minutes ago, Tanuki said:
My Defender TD5 has done this a few times.
Try doing a "fuel systerm purge cycle" on the key a couple of times [takes around six minutes per cycle] and then see if it will start.
If it does, the problem's air/combustion-gases in the fuel-rail inside the head, and the fix is replacing the injector-sealing copper-washers. To be honest I'd consider replacing the copper washers a 60,000-mile service item, if only to avoid starting problems. Running for any length of time with leaky washers can either result in diesel-in-the-sump engine-bearing damage or burned-out-electric-fuel-pump problems.
At worst, both at the same time!
Have just been out and tried that Tanuki and alas it won’t start, but I can hear the pump running.
i was thing of putting a pressure tester in the fuel regulator to see if I’ve got the right pressure ???
cheers
Gary
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22 minutes ago, bear said:
Hi Gary,
I would have thought so. If you're not already a member of the D2boys forum I suggest you join this one as well as it's soely for the D2 and there are guys with more knowledge than me. Free to join qnd search too. I'm no electricery wizard either!
As it's turning over you know it's not imobilised. Another thing to check is the emergency cut off switch mounted on the bulkhead. Just push down to re-set. I asume the injector loom connection is ok -not bent any pins?
Griff
Have joined the D2 boys forum this afternoon and getting some help which is good , no the injector loom connected up fine and did run although with misfire until it stopped yesterday afternoon.
will have a look for the emergency cut off switch.
just noticed you’re from Shropshire as well , what part of the county are you in ?
cheers
Gary
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1 hour ago, bear said:
Hi Gary, Have a look through the attached. I've got the Nanocom Evo, but I expect they are similar. Check the crank position sensor is ok and, if you haven't got it already, down load RAVE, the workshop manual.
The attached is care of a very knowlegable guy on TheD2BoysClub forum.
HTH,
Griff
Hi Griff,
thank you that, will download rave and have a look at that.
im guessing if nanocom is showing the rpm when turning engine over then the crank position sensor is working ?
thanks
Gary
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Hello,
started my td5 the other day and it had got a misfire, so had a look at the red plug and there was a little bit of oil, so I changed the injector loom and cleaned the red plug out with contact cleaner.
had the top of the emu and it all appeared dry and oil free, put it all back together and misfire still present 😰😰😰
so have bought a Hawkeye (off a friend who has sold his td5) and plugged in, whilst looking at the live data and looking at the rpm I decided to give a few revs on the third rev it emitted a large puff of smoke (engine not Hawkeye) and now will turnover but won’t start 😫😫😩.
so the question is where to start and has anybody got a link to the numbers or parameters I should be seeing with the Hawkeye ?
Thank you & apologies for the question but this is my first foray in to electrical type engines
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Ok thanks for the replies , there really isn’t much choice , will do a bit more searching
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Thanks , I was wondering about the pro comps , after doing a google search there doesn’t appear to be much choice
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Evening all ,
i’m Just about to fit GB parabolic springs to a series 3 88” that i’m rebuilding , which are the best shocks to use ?
thanks
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Thank you all for your replies 👍
looks like it’s Turner Engineering 😉
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I'm currently rebuilding a 200 tdi to install in a series and need to source head gasket , oil seals etc , can anybody recommend an online quality parts supplier .
I can't remember who I used to order parts off but there was a choice of britpart 🤢 ,bearmach and OEM
Thanks in advance
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3 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
What do the runners feel like on the new ones Gary?
they feel cheap and nasty Ross , they friction lock too , the whole toolbox feels poor imho , like you I was hoping to buy a couple of bottom boxes
I was rather hoping somebody might know who they were manufactured by
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10 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
They're the one's they're replacing?
yes I think so with the 'advanced' ones which are also black but from what I saw yesterday , the advanced ones are no where near as good as quality of the industrial ones , sad times
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I know a few people on here like the halfords Industrial range of toolboxes/chests , it looks like they're being replaced by the 'advanced' range , I looked at one of these(advanced) in store yesterday and imho they look carp and have friction draw locking
The industrial range is still on there website but I can't find a branch to click & collect and they're not available for delivery , does anybody know if these are manufactured for anybody as well as halfords and badged up different ?
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Thanks for your replies , i’ve got a 14 plate 110 utility wagon & a transit custom dciv, love the tranny for how comfortable it is , how nice to drive and it’s fuel economy but then love the defender for its ability to tow and it’s character , so thought the ranger might be a happy medium (without the character obviously)
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Excellent , what do you think you are getting mpg ?
Disco 1 axles on Series 3
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
If you have a look at YRM, they sell the brackets to convert and show you how to set the axles