garymorris
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Posts posted by garymorris
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You want to have a sliding door track at the top and have a guide at the bottom if you fit a bottom track it will get full of $hit , complete waste of time.
Ellard sliding door gear is quite good , I use quite a bit of it on the buildings I manufacture & erect .
I'm sorry I can't explain the guide at the bottom better , I could draw it better
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The newer chassis's are definately painted inside cos they're dipped not sprayed at the factory , because a friend of mine does some maintenance on the paint plant
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I would have thought the acid tank at the Galv would remove the paint .
There's a firm in the Midlands that strips paint off car shells by dipping them in a tank , which I would have thought they'd be able to sort it for you ?
Sorry I can remember the name of the firm , there was a feature on them in one of the comics a while ago
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Got insa turbo's on modulars which came on the 110 , the modulars are pretty scabby and have always liked the look of the mach 5 .
I've just looked and the steel ones are cheaper than the alloys , so might give the steel ones a whirl
Also with the steel ones I can use my existing nuts
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Did you get yours from 4x4 tyres direct ?
Cheers
Gary
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Thanks Mat , I've read somewhere ... Maybe on here , that the welding was $hite and the spokes were flat on the back as opposed to a tube .
Hmmmm decisions decisions
Cheers
Gary
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Evening folks
Has anybody got any experience of these wheels ? http://tyresdirectuk.co.uk/shop/product-info.php?prodname=16x7-Gun-Metal-Alloy-Challenger-(Land-Rover)&id=32427
Obviously they're a mach 5 copy , has anybody seen them or got a set ?
I've heard that the steel version aren't very good quality ???
And last but not least if the offset is 10 and a boost alloy is 33 , am I correct in the thinking that the 10 offset wheel will be 23mm further out than the boost ?
Thanks in advance
Gary
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I bought a 2nd hand soft a bar and one of the brackets was rotten so I fabbed up a new one , the brackets slide under the bumper bolts and also a bolt on the side , the top of the a bar has a plastic bracket each side going from where you can bolt spotlights on the a bar back to the slam panel .
Afaik there is no difference between air con and non air con , there's a difference in the a bars between winch and non winch
If you pm me your email I can send a picture of the bracket to you
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Typical I took one of these apart to make a tow hitch , but I can't remember what I did .
Anyway there was no big explosion or bang
was expecting a kin bang and a boing bit of an anti climax really -
It's O.K , I sussed it now , I got confused
because paddocks only had 3 ball joints with the rods in the link above (which is actually for a bent drop arm) when I had a look on page 2 there is a set with 4 ball joints for the straight disco drop arm 
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I've done this mod about 5 years ago or so and it's been an absolutely brilliant one, instead as some else has said it taking me at least 1/2 a day to change over that daft drop arm ball joint It now takes me 10 minutes a side to change over, and as long as you copper slip the threads then it'll be even easier to do-I've attached a pic to show you how mine is
HTH
John
I have a defender and want to do this mod , I also have a drop arm exactly the same as the John's , are these the heavy duty arms I require ?
I'm guessing I'll need an extra balljoint (LH ?)
Cheers
Gary
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What an excellent write up:)
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When I changed the cam bearings in my 300 tdi , I machined up a bush that fitted the bearing and tapped a 12 mm thread in it and the used threaded bar , nut and heavy washer on the other end to pull them in .
I don't know if that would work for you as I don't know the layout of the tk engine .
Hth
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Did you make/bend them yourself or buy them flat pack ?
@darrenroberts , yes I'm well aware of all that but I'd like to make my own , I have a tube bender and welder so was just looking for advice how to do the front hoop .
Sooo from the replies so far , it looks like it's just a case of working out how many degrees to turn when raking it back , simples !
Can believe dirtydiesel hasn't popped in to offer some advice
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@robertspark , you're probably right ! If I don't have any luck / answers on here , i'll give it a whirl , only waste a bit of tube if i cock it up
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Evening all !
Right I'd like to make a roll cage for my 110 , I've read Rob Park write up on pirate4x4 which is all fine .
The bit I'm confused about is the windscreen hoop where it is raked back/ bent at the top of bulkhead.
Obviously the other hoops are flat which is fine but the windscreen hoop has the bend in two planes (sort of)
Has anybody got any tips about how to do the front hoop ?
Thanks in advance
Gary
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Usually they will sweepblast something that's been galvanised to help the powder coating key in.
They have to do something called degassing which stops the powder coating going funny /porous.
If you don't want to leave the Galv finish then t wash/ mordant solution and paint it like Ralph did
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If it helps I managed to get a truck cab in to a 03 plate golf ( with the back seats folded down)
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Nice bit of fabbing there ! Glad you're cracking on
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This letter was in the local paper tonight , is there anybody on here that's 'wordy' to write a reply from our point of view ?
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Usually if air is trapped, the sealed piece will blow/explode/split big time , I don't think it would cause a crack like your on about
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Could you mount the winch under the rear seats with a hole through the rear bulkhead ( you could put a brush or something similar to keep the weather out ) winch rope across floor and then the fair lead in the rear tailgate ( which you make to drop in a socket ??)
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Sorry mavFunny man
it's the process that's giving me the hump not the auditor
I can imagine , surely the only reason somebody would do it , is for the money or cos they've got small man syndrome and want to feel powerful ( apologies again Mav )Trust me, auditing is never the job you want! It is beyond tedious.
We're using LloydsRegister QA Gary , not cheap but the guy we have is quite sensible about things ....to a point , he is an
auditor .
At £500 a day I could put up with tedious ....
cheers
Steveb
That's pretty cheap ( compared to what the others charge) , hopefully will pass the second stage , got some hardness testing to do for the thermal cutting and four other small issues to iron out
Are you doing execution class 1 & 2 ?
Cheers
Gary
because paddocks only had 3 ball joints with the rods in the link above (which is actually for a bent drop arm) when I had a look on page 2 there is a set with 4 ball joints for the straight disco drop arm 
Planning new garage - sliding door tracks
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
http://www.ellard.co.uk/pages/sliding_door_gear.php?product=sdg_gear
Have a look at this and if I get a mo I'll sketch what I mean about the guides