Stambecco
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Posts posted by Stambecco
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Cancel that! It fits but only just. I will source another one and hope it:s a bit longer. Thanks.
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1990 200Tdi 110.
I have a coolant leak from a water pump hose. I ordered part number ERR1424 but when it looks a lot smaller than the existing one, photo attached. Could somebody please help me out with the correct part number? Thank you very much.
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I would check the swivel preloads, all the ball joints, steering column ujs and that everything steering related us all torqued up properly.
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I think it needs 170 nm.
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Regarding the diff lock light, hold the lever to the left and drive forward a couple of feet. The light doesn't always come on when static.
I would check all the track rod ends and drop arm ball joint.
I don't think there is any problem relocating the seat belt anchor, providing it has a heavy duty fixing with a thick front and back plate but I don't know.
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http://www.4x4overlander.com/product/wheel-carrier-pre-2002/
I have this one which is very heavy duty and sits the wheel in a position, slightly to the right, allowing the use of the tow hitch, even a NATO hitch. It has grease nipples also. The wheel is still in the way when operating the jockey wheel on a Sankey though.
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European is larger😉
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Is the cooling fan secure?
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Thanks. It was the front I was confused about.
Cheers.
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Defender 110 (H) 200Tdi (RHD)
Hello, please can someone confirm that the sequence in the Haynes is correct for my vehicle. I had always thought it started with the furthest away first, working towards the master cylinder. The order in the Haynes is slightly different.
Thank you.
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Hi, I have just fitted Old Man Emu springs and shocks to my Tdi110, to replace the exact same, older ones I fitted 14 years ago. I find them to be excellent and give good service. The old springs, when removed, were the same free height as the new ones but now the vehicle sits noticeably taller, especially at the front and the ride is much better due to the new shocks and bushes. I used rear springs 2755 and front 2751 which is medium duty and it sounds like you have a similar setup to mine. I would recommend these. The shocks were the sport ones, part numbers ending in 37&39, however, they have plastic boots but the older metal type are still available. They were from island 4x4. The ride is firm and positive without being stiff and would give the required lift over the originals. I know they're not cheap but I believe they are worth it in the long run.
I have only used this make and genuine original ones and have no experience of other makes.
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Ok, thanks for the info. The rears were ok and as you say, no difference in height, the front was sitting lower. I removed the spare from the bonnet but it didn't help much. The shocks had gone soft and that was the reason I finally got round to replacing them and went for new rears as well. They are the exact same make and model, just a different length of wire.
Thanks for your reassurance in that they will serve me well.
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I see. Why would they use less wire? I didn't realise they didn't wear out. I assumed sagging was due to the years of stress on the metal.
Cheers.
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Just an observation. Changed my 15 year old springs and shocks on my 110 today, using the same ome part numbers, 755 rear, medium duty coils. The new ones have two less coils. Same height but surely won't last as long. It seems everything is being downgraded to save money.
Could there be another reason for this? I'm just curious.
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On 11/01/2018 at 10:31 AM, Mutley said:
Cheers mmgemini...i used that thread and your info when i did mine a few years back. Works a charm and got me into having a go with electrics.
Me too!
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I fitted Cibie headlights, Osram night breaker H4 bulbs and wired through relays, it's like driving a different vehicle.
https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/headlights/cibie-7-inch-e-approved-headlight-conversions
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Does it make any whining noises? Maybe try another bleed.
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Yes, same here. I'm pretty sure these ones have never been off since the vehicle was built. It's possible that later models may have had a fibre gasket instead, I suppose. 1990 was an early 200.
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I've just put a magnet on the old plates/rings, both metal.
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I've just put it all back together and now I'm really confused. Both plates looked the same to me, not a plate and a fibre gasket. I fear I may have now done it wrongly with the wrong parts!
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Excellent, thanks very much. The stainless steel ones are nice but it's a job for another day.👍
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I don't know what to do! I think that as there have been three cases where two plates have been fitted, I will refit both of them.
Thanks Mo but I haven't got time, it has to go back together tomorrow 👍
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Ah, interesting. Thanks a lot. Good job I waited.
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Defender 110 200Tdi 1990(H)
Hi,
I am in the middle of replacing the swivel chrome ball seal, using the entire hub and half shaft removal method. After cleaning it up and unbolting the 10 mm bolts on the retaining plate, I prised it off, only to see another retaining plate behind it. They are identical.
Question is, is there supposed to be one plate or two?
I can't see why there should be two and it must have been on there since the last person changed it. I have owned the vehicle for 22 years and this is the first time I've done it. I use oil in the swivels, not grease.
I have also got the wrong gasket, I will use corn flakes box and silicone, but that's another story!
Thanks.
Water pump hose.
in Requests for Part Numbers
Posted
Thank you, sounds like a plan.