Rich_P
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Posts posted by Rich_P
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I believce a genuine pump has a removable top on it, these can be cleaned out easily.
That's right, on mine you can even remove the plunger mechanism without physically removing the pump from the engine.
The stock tdi pump has no filter in it, whereas a facet pump has a gauze to stop carp getting in to it, so at least you can clear it out.
I know the older pumps like on my 2.25 have a sediment filter. Do the mechanical TDi pumps lack this?
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The mechanical pump is merely a plunger driven off the cam lobe. If these are not surviving, surely an Electric Pump isn't going to fare any better at best?
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Do you know what the outcome was Paul?
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Hello again.
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NAS style 90 anyone?
You could start with a leafer too. They're rapidly becoming classic cars, all of them, rather than cheap toys. Maybe worth putting one back together if you want something which is going up in value?
tdi or V8...no old lumps
Erm, both the TDi and Rover V8 are quite old now.
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Had a good foot worth of snow here in cleared areas (like house footpaths), of course they rarely if ever mention regions like where I'm at! We were only mentioned in one news report as being the worst hit area with snow so far, and that was it.
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Those tyres are slightly on the larger side compared to what standard spec Land Rovers are fitted with.
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I really don't see what the problem is, the small step is easily driven with a reasonably prepared vehicle and a little driver skill.
Define "reasonably prepared" please.
From seeing the lane over ten years, the steps are bedrock and aren't changing except from the prevailing weather. Recently it's been cold, snowy and icy and it has caught two people out - that's all.
I think they are changing. I have noticed that material appears to be being washed away from under the step, making the step itself bigger.
Here are two video examples.
And a photograph from 2008.
I have unfortunately had to be towed up the step a couple of times being unable to maintain traction on the nearside wheels. I have witnessed one or two other vehicles suffer the same difficulties, with the same results. I do not think it is a case of the size of the step being the problem on its own, judging by how people cope with Pheasants Steps in Wales. I think the problem is the combination of polished rock and washed out material causing difficulties with traction.
Opinions may differ but those are my thoughts on it.
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Weird innit?
Yes it is. Because it's very different to what happens for me. When people learn I have a Land Rover, the immediate question that follows is "Are you a farmer?". Hmm...
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I drove the route the weekend prior, and the steps have deteriorated a lot over the past couple of years. If you get it wrong going down you will easily go onto three wheels (as I did). I have attached a photograph showing what it can be like in favourable conditions.
I think it is becoming a problem for most vehicles coming up to actually get up. It can be troublesome for some even with the use of waffle boards and piling of rocks.
Does anyone know if any of the greenlane groups (e.g. CRAG or/and GLASS) are aware of this problem and can say whether or not work is being planned?
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^ I would agree with the above individual.
According to what I have read, mostly here, it must be said, if you have modified the chassis you need to look at SVA.
And that can be interpreted in so many ways. Does just patching a chassis class as modifying a chassis? Or replacing or fitting an outrigger?
I would hope it would be sensible that it's when the chassis length or chassis suspension design is altered that it counts.
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I've driven the odd vehicle that's got hydraulic steering rather than mechanical steering that's power assisted. You get absolutely zilch feedback, and so you're reliant entirely on what you can see the wheels doing. (fortunately not a problem in a tractor, but could be in a car!)
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I must admit i was envious....
I would have loved to be in that jungle Camel Trophy style NOT BBC style
You mean like this?
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Do you have drums on the rear? They may be due adjustment. Do this before looking for an actual fault.
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That really is pants.
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I am told Chapel Gate is no longer open to traffic.
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Category B vehicles may be coupled with a trailer up to 750kgs MAM (allowing a combined weight up to 4.25 tonnes MAM) or a trailer over 750kgs MAM provided the MAM of the trailer does not exceed the unladen weight of the towing vehicle, and the combination does not exceed 3.5 tonnes MAM.
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/DriverLicensing/CaravansTrailersCommercialVehicles/DG_10013073
This means you can tow up to the unladen weight of the tow vehicle, as long as the trailer and tow vehicle combined do not exceed 3.5 tonnes. The plate on the trailer must also not exceed the unladen weight of the tow vehicle.
So to put this into context. My 88 weighs 1,500kg. That permits me to tow a trailer that is rated up to 1,500kg on the plate because:
1.) It does not exceed the unladen weight of my 88.
2.) The combined max weight of the trailer and 88 unladen equals 3,000kg.
However if the vehicle is a Discovery then if I remember rightly it is unladen at around 2,000kg. That leaves you only with 1,500kg left to play with, even though there is another 500kg before the unladen weight of tow vehicle. This is because if you had the trailer up to the Discovery unladen weight, it would put you up to 4,000kg, exceeding the limit.
If the tow vehicle weighs for instance 2,750kg to 3,500kg then you are restricted to a total maximum of 750kg (in other words a small dinky braked trailer).
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That was my thoughts... I would end up changing it to a tdi sometime in the future, so why go to the expense of buying one that I will end up changing when i can buy one already with a tdi.
At one point doing it that way could have worked out cheaper when it comes to moneys. You just paid for it in time instead. Although I think it was better with the TD > TDi conversion, as I believe the NA had a diff ratio transfer box?
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2.5 NA is a good engine. What it lacks in power and torque it more than makes up for reliability. Of course, it is the longer stroke version of an engine that powered Land Rovers for 32 years, so should be good.
I still think you should consider other Land Rovers if you have not fully worked out their costs.
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Looks reasonable on the surface. Be sure to inspect it underneath. I was very surprised to find how many 90s and 110s can look reasonable on the surface but be shot where it matters.
By the way, where did you get the far higher maintenance costs for the non-utility Land Rover products in your chart? Mechanically (and maybe electrically) they're not all that different to the utility models...
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Are your SAGs radial tyres? How much were they?
I must also say, I like the look of your Land Rover.
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Yes, but there is a way around that. If an immediate family member has business with them then you can get insurance with them. If no one in your immediate family has business with them then you must be either 21 or 25 (varies on office it appears!).
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NFU have increased their rates dramatically over the past year, almost doubling my father's car insurance yet nothing has changed in that time other than another claim free year of motoring. The quotes they have given me have almost doubled as well.
A few months back they told me that their underwriters had recently changed, so that may have something to do with it.
Whatever it may be, we won't be using them until they start giving more realistic quotes to us.
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I've witnessed the standard "flimsy" hood sticks taking a flop onto the side. They did bend quite a bit and I think it was more of the windscreen and door top stopping it going any further.
Weren't 109s fitted with a bar behind the occupants, just a simple hoop, in case of it landing on its side?
What would you buy?
in International Forum
Posted
Not me, too short if it is to have coil springs.
What about a classic Land Rover? They won't be suffering depreciation in value and aren't massively overinflated compared to Defenders in price.