Rich_P
-
Posts
488 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Rich_P
-
-
I had an instance of oil leaking out the exhaust on a NA diesel. The engine had too much oil in (my mistake). I think oil was getting past the piston rings on the exhaust stroke.
-
I also found that the auto crawls along in 1st at a pace that you would likely be in 2nd or 3rd in a manual for. I don't know if this was down to the engine idle speed but it had the normal idle range for an EFi.
Example, first low on the Disco V8 was like second high in my 88.
-
On a big downhill slope?
I know that a friend's V8 Disco will run away downhill in 1st with poor engine braking compared to diesels. And yes the converter was engaged.
-
I'm not that experienced, but there seems plenty of engine braking if its locked in 1 or sometimes 2.
Compare it to a manual with a diesel up front, then you will notice a big difference between the two.
-
When do we get photographs?
-
Looks to me that the footwell is too high or the seatbox is too low.
Have you checked that the door mounting points are in the correct position too? Wondering if the bulkhead might have been put together incorrectly.
-
I expect the production model will loose the fancy rear seating and full length console for a more conventional arrangement, and hopefully have a bit more glass to look out of. We'll wait and see...
Citroen put dashes like the one in the concept car into their production cars... check out the current C4 for example.
-
I wouldn't have thought that putting together a system would pose a problem, if you got it right?
-
How are they failing? Are they just coming apart? Or are they melting? Or just stop working?
-
I guess this is one of the joys of electronics - when they go wrong they can really go wrong.
-
All I know is that people have run Series boxes with 3.5 engines with little trouble.
-
Ashcroft also do four speed Series gearboxes, but they aren't cheap. You'll be looking at the upper end of three figures.
It may work out cheaper to rebuild the gearbox yourself. If the vehicle is in regular use, perhaps source a second hand gearbox while you rebuild the existing one?
-
Are you saying that the bolt sits in a groove, which stops the arm coming of the top steering relay shaft?
Yes.
If you are removing the bulkhead support arm with the bulkhead, then you could disconnect the ball joint at the bottom of the steering box drop arm. The alternative is that you remove the drop arm off the steering box. These are the only two ways with the battery tray in place and without removing the steering box completely from the bulkhead.
-
The country is broke, so they need to rob the money back somehow.
-
Okay then. Has anyone got a pair of XZLs going cheap?
-
As said previously its a lifestyle thing that needs addressing
Very much so. I tried to take apart my mother's little loaf baker, only to find that two of the screws that hold it together are some sort of factory special. Standard screw drivers were of no use. All that had happened was that the central prong had stopped rotating, meaning a possible simple fix.
That's pretty good looking. I only skimmed through it, but why aren't we using tidal power? Are these wind turbines able to generate more than tide driven generators?
-
Oh well.
If it's any use I've just measured the tyres. The worn examples I'm thinking of putting on the front have 7mm worth of tread remaining in the centre. The tyres I'm wanting to put on the back have about 12mm, possibly a little more. They're all XZL.
-
I know the law states that it's 1.6mm before a tyre must be replaced, while I think the tyre ceases being effective below 3mm. When it comes to Mud Terrain tread patterns, at what stage is the tyre likely to no longer be effective? For instance, is it 5mm? Or is it 8mm? Or do they rapidly become less effective once they've lost their first couple of mm worth of tread?
To clarify my situation a little. I have a set of XZL tyres I want to fit. At the moment I've got four worn tyres and two almost brand new. If it's a case that the remaining tread on two of the worn ones is still enough for them to be effective, I'll just fit them to the front and put the new ones on the rear. What I don't want is to waste ££ on getting the tyres changed over on the rims if the worn ones will be useless off the tarmac.
-
we need electricity, i don't care how much energy it takes to build a wind turbine/water powered thingy. I'd rather have a million of them if the lternative is another 23 nuclear power stations dotted around.
Got the land for a million wind turbines?
-
£550 third party fire & theft with Footman James on their young driver Classic Car scheme. I'm 20 by the way.
Big influencing factors is where you live and where the vehicle is stored. High risk areas=fewer willing to quote. FJ are the only sensible quoting company that will do Oldham for my age. Every other company wants £2,000 or more on my standard 2A 88-inch, as they consider places like Oldham too greater risk and some just don't quote at all.
EDIT: One last thing. A late Series 3 or early Ninety/One Ten may be the way to go rather than older. I found some insurance companies refused to quote who would normally do young drivers on a Land Rover because my Land Rover was over 25-30 years old.
-
I too struggle to believe what Matt has mentioned about the wind turbines and solar panels. If someone could give some reference(s) to this I would appreciate it, as we cover matters like this in my current course.
I think I saw someone mention about power generation being moved to local authorities, or at least the suggestion of it. There are government intentions of doing this. It is claimed that they are trying to push this for environmental reasons to reduce the energy requirements throughout the country. What I reckon is the case, is that the government is merely trying to shift the blame from themselves onto local authorities for when energy problems do occur. I do not know what the current state of the national grid is, but I recall a program some years back claiming the grid would struggle to sustain the current rate of growth for the next 10 years. Couple this with the political minefield about power stations, is it any wonder that politicians may want to move responsibility down the ladder?
As for the original question in the topic, isn't the big question where the energy comes from? If we could defy the laws of physics and create energy, our problems would be solved.
Aren't turbines supposed to be quite energy efficient? I know steam turbines can be up to 80% efficient, so what about fuel based turbines? After all, Rover developed a turbine-powered vehicle didn't they? Does anyone know how a modern design of a car with a turbine would do compared to one of these hybrid designs?
-
If that's got the LT77 and LT230 in, that must have one really really short rear propshaft.
Anyway, as above, it's probably a better bet to start with something that's not been messed about with too much (or ragged to death).
And about taste... er, I guess the best description to one that's never been in one is that's it will be more like a vintage car than anything else. Just be mindful that they're all old and most will be worn out in one way or another when you go to view.
-
The points have that red piece of plastic which is the cam follower on the points. The cam lobe on the distributor (below the rotor arm - which is removable) pushes the contact points open. The contacts need to be clean from corrosion. The opened position gap should be set somewhere around 10 to 15 thou (I think, not got book to hand
).To remove them, you undo the little nut on the left. Be careful to not lose the plastic washers. To adjust, you unwind the screw slightly so that you can rotate the base plate. When you get the desired position, tighten it up again (but don't go ape on it, same for little nut).
For your future reference of parts, that's a Lucas 45D distributor.
-
I can only find modern Land Rovers or some like a Discovery posing as a 1950s Rover.
In fact, kit cars default to 1971 on the MOT too it says. Does that mean kit cars have the same test as a vehicle built in 1971? Like visual only on exhaust? Seatbelts only in front etc?
Galvanising - any alternatives?
in International Forum
Posted
Gallons of paint and then waxoil, followed by a rubber barrier between the alloy and steel?