Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Vogler

  1. I just realised that I never updated this...

    The issue came up again during our trip through Iceland. The new bracket held up, but the rivets broke. Same on the other side where the original rivets were broken too.

    So we made a return trip to Reykjavik (300 miles) to buy a hand drill and riveting tool since I expected  quite some corrugations.

    I also put bolts through factory made holes in the inner gutter, approx. 10cm from the corners.

    It held up since. I guess the roof load was the cause (RTT and a large awning). I can't think of anything else.



  2. @Peaklander I'll keep it short not to stray off topic (or at least try...).

    Here's an overview of the earliest and latest opening dates of mountain roads on the website of the Vegagardin. During a previous trip we had to change plans because several roads were still closed half of July. (Roads can also be closed due to volcanic activity, in 2015 the F910 was closed just South of Askja because of toxic gasses emited by Barđarbunga)

    Mid-August is considered as the end of the high season. After the first week of September the rangers start to prepare the highland campsites for winter. 

    If you go early, than you can take advantage of the long daylight. On the other hand, rivers and fords tend to be lower the later you go.

    Since a couple of years there's a RoRo ferry which transports cars (so without passengers, you'll have to fly) from Rotterdam (Netherlands) to the southwest within bus range from from Keflavik/Reykjavik. This might save you a week of travel time compared with the Denmark ferry.


    • Thanks 1

  3. Made a new bracket today and was quite relieved to see that it fitted through the roof channel.


    During a first attempt it rotated and almost got lodged in the curve. In the second attempt I used two pieces of string to guide it and it was in before I knew it. I'm quite relieved!

    Too much panic for what turned out to be a simple problem...





  4. I presume that the cause is the weight of the roof rack and vibrations. The sidewalls have caved in just a bit between the windows (the side windows nudge towards one another veeeerryyy slightly) and that probably pushes the corners upwards.

    A member of the belgian forum had an issue after his travels to Africa, probably it was just the screw that fell out (he gave no feedback) and it got worse, resulting in longitudinal cracks:


    I got the pieces of the broken bracket out today:



    After some delibration with a friend, I'll probably make a new bracket of some plain, thicker L-shaped aluminium. A block might be too strong and result in cracks elsewhere.

    Hopefully it will fit through the roof channel... Fingers crossed.


    As to what the bracket or screw actually hold: the whole construction in that corner seems a bit odd.

    I was amazed to see that the part in red is only fixed to the upper channel, and nowhere to the skin, the frame above the door or the broken bracket.


    Actually one can wiggle the curved part a bit. So it seems like the whole corner setup is made to move and flex. But it's no news that the defender roof is quite weak...








  5. Had the opportunity today to go look at an unmounted roof, which helped a lot. The solution looks to be a lot simpler that I anticipated.

    Clearly the broken bracket is captive in the roof arch, and rivetted to the gutter.



    I guess first step will be drilling the rivets and try to take out the bracket through the hole higher up in the arch. 48284609222_401ed5b538_c.jpg

    Given the fact that the bracket broke, I think it's a better idea to try and make a block and bolt it to the gutter and arch through the existing riv







  6. Thanks Gazzar, makes sense.

    I'll make an attempt to get more in an image tomorrow, but it's probably more interesting to know what's further up front, and behind the curved part of the windscreen, to see if there's access to slide in a backplate or a new part.

    With a bit of luck I'll be able to check an unmounted roof one of the following days, that will be even better than pics.



  7. Haha! Thanks for taking interest in my post!

    I made some more after posting, and I've added some pointers to what one sees:




    They also show the crack a bit clearer. It looks like an angled connecting piece that is riveted to the frame, and is hidden inside a channel. The PZ3 headed screw that fixes it to the windscreen frame goes though the hole at the right.

    Any idea if this piece is boxed in during construction, or if it would be possible to fit a new piece or a connecting block when the roof is off?










  8. Hi all,

    The roof of our 110 creaked a bit the last few weeks, and tightening the screw in the front left corner didn't help this time. So removed the lining to take a look... The fixing point turns out to have cracked 😕


    Presumably the permanent presence of a roof rack with RTT and a large awning attributed to the problem.

    I'm a bit at loss about how to solve this.... We'll be leaving for Iceland in a couple of weeks, so the 110 will have to cope with long stretches of bad roads an corrugations. Any ideas or suggestions?



  9. Our Td5 made a squealing noise at high revs when its outlet manifold was warped. That particular squeal was'caused by the metal plates of the manifold gasket vibrating. I know it's a different engine, but maybe it's worth checking if all connections with gaskets are tight.

    A warped manifold is a typical Td5 issue, and could be recognised by traces of soot where the block joins the manifold. Two nuts could be turned by hand.

  10. The seller gave me permission to open the other of the two ATB's to assess its condition and to see if it would be OK. In the end I did return both of them but at least it gave me the chance to see what's inside. I suspect others are keen to see it too, so here are some pics.



    The large cogs should be switched on the photo. This way they wouldn't fit.



    This is what you see once it's open. Underneath the cog one can see a broken belleville washer, which should be a bit deeper underneat a smaller cog, I probably made a mistake when I briefly put things back to make the photos. One should see a ring on top of it which is part of a smaller, sliding sprocket-like part that keeps the rings contained. They can be seen at the top of the exploded views.




    The large cog that receives the halfshaft. I now have a new ATB waiting for installation, and when comparing the splines were indeed worn, as Snagger mentioned.




    The worm wheels sit in the pockets without any bearings or alike.


    Actually I was surprised about how loosely it all fits. There were also very few unpainted machined surfaces on the inside, also on the outside 'lid' which the worm wheels push against.



    Here you can clearly see a crack in the spring. Two or three spring washers were broken.




    Drilling a bit deeper. The middle parts and upper worm wheels are out, and you can just discern the worm wheels of the other side.



    Some details of the worm wheels and sprockets. There's quite some wear and some chipping to be seen. If they were truly low mileage, than I have the impression that they have already suffered a lot 







    Hope you enjoy it.







  11. Cheers all. I mailed Dave Ashcroft, asking if he could estimate their condition based on the photo, but apart from the fact that the springs are obviously cracked, he can't say anything.

    I'll ask the seller first if he's prepared to take them back, if he doesn't I'll open them.

    Actually I'm quite curious to disassemble the ATB's and see their innards. I found absolutely nothing online about opening Ashcroft ATB's (which might be a testimony to their strength) except for the post I quoted above , but I'm not prepared to invest that much money in what might be scrap just for curiosity's sake.


  12. The teeth that you see are the splines for the driveshaft. The photo has been taken from the opening where you insert the halfshaft, in the lower right of the image you posted.

    Edit: your image also shows that the cracked item is most likely one of the belleville washers. Thank you for posting it!



  13. Hi all,

    Just bought a set of used Ashcroft ATB's. Low mileage but probably used intensily: seller had a Disco Td5 on extreme off road tyres and upgraded to air lockers.

    The bearings sound a bit grainy and I found some dirt in the splines. Obviously it has seen a bit more than just oil, contrary to what the seller told me. Also found some cracks in what looks like a shim (photo attached). I presume that a dirty halfshaft has been installed - one can also see some rust coloured dirt in the beginning of the splines, in the out-of-focus area.

    So I think a good clean is in order. According to a post on the South African forum, the ATB's are quite easy to open and clean:


    Opening and inspecting the ATB is easy. Nothing springs apart and only thing you need to worry about is a pack of belleville washers in the middle- you need to note how they are placed and put them back the same

    Does anyone have to add something to that?



    ATB fractures.JPG

  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy