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Vogler

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Posts posted by Vogler


  1. Made a new bracket today and was quite relieved to see that it fitted through the roof channel.

    48301906591_f21499b1b5_c.jpg

    During a first attempt it rotated and almost got lodged in the curve. In the second attempt I used two pieces of string to guide it and it was in before I knew it. I'm quite relieved!

    Too much panic for what turned out to be a simple problem...

    Cheers,

    Joris

     

     


  2. I presume that the cause is the weight of the roof rack and vibrations. The sidewalls have caved in just a bit between the windows (the side windows nudge towards one another veeeerryyy slightly) and that probably pushes the corners upwards.

    A member of the belgian forum had an issue after his travels to Africa, probably it was just the screw that fell out (he gave no feedback) and it got worse, resulting in longitudinal cracks:

    dakscheur_02.jpg

    I got the pieces of the broken bracket out today:

    48293050361_9f50aa2422_c.jpg

    48293146422_f1c9015a3c_c.jpg

    After some delibration with a friend, I'll probably make a new bracket of some plain, thicker L-shaped aluminium. A block might be too strong and result in cracks elsewhere.

    Hopefully it will fit through the roof channel... Fingers crossed.

     

    As to what the bracket or screw actually hold: the whole construction in that corner seems a bit odd.

    I was amazed to see that the part in red is only fixed to the upper channel, and nowhere to the skin, the frame above the door or the broken bracket.

    48293383441_af39787c9a_z.jpg

    Actually one can wiggle the curved part a bit. So it seems like the whole corner setup is made to move and flex. But it's no news that the defender roof is quite weak...

     

    Cheers,

    Joris

     

     

     

     


  3. Had the opportunity today to go look at an unmounted roof, which helped a lot. The solution looks to be a lot simpler that I anticipated.

    Clearly the broken bracket is captive in the roof arch, and rivetted to the gutter.

    48284609422_50a9cb33c9_c.jpg

    48284510181_359aac9e80_c.jpg

    I guess first step will be drilling the rivets and try to take out the bracket through the hole higher up in the arch. 48284609222_401ed5b538_c.jpg

    Given the fact that the bracket broke, I think it's a better idea to try and make a block and bolt it to the gutter and arch through the existing riv

    48284604456_1c0ef1a334_c.jpg

    Greetings,

    Joris

     

     

     


  4. Thanks Gazzar, makes sense.

    I'll make an attempt to get more in an image tomorrow, but it's probably more interesting to know what's further up front, and behind the curved part of the windscreen, to see if there's access to slide in a backplate or a new part.

    With a bit of luck I'll be able to check an unmounted roof one of the following days, that will be even better than pics.

    Cheers,

    Joris


  5. Haha! Thanks for taking interest in my post!

    I made some more after posting, and I've added some pointers to what one sees:

    48275262042_501dc1a523_c.jpg

    48275179886_1e7837817b_c.jpg

     

    They also show the crack a bit clearer. It looks like an angled connecting piece that is riveted to the frame, and is hidden inside a channel. The PZ3 headed screw that fixes it to the windscreen frame goes though the hole at the right.

    Any idea if this piece is boxed in during construction, or if it would be possible to fit a new piece or a connecting block when the roof is off?

     

    Cheers,

     

    Joris

     

     

     

     

     


  6. Hi all,

    The roof of our 110 creaked a bit the last few weeks, and tightening the screw in the front left corner didn't help this time. So removed the lining to take a look... The fixing point turns out to have cracked 😕

    48273768752_b83fca431d_c.jpg

    Presumably the permanent presence of a roof rack with RTT and a large awning attributed to the problem.

    I'm a bit at loss about how to solve this.... We'll be leaving for Iceland in a couple of weeks, so the 110 will have to cope with long stretches of bad roads an corrugations. Any ideas or suggestions?

    Greetings,

    Joris


  7. Our Td5 made a squealing noise at high revs when its outlet manifold was warped. That particular squeal was'caused by the metal plates of the manifold gasket vibrating. I know it's a different engine, but maybe it's worth checking if all connections with gaskets are tight.

    A warped manifold is a typical Td5 issue, and could be recognised by traces of soot where the block joins the manifold. Two nuts could be turned by hand.


  8. The seller gave me permission to open the other of the two ATB's to assess its condition and to see if it would be OK. In the end I did return both of them but at least it gave me the chance to see what's inside. I suspect others are keen to see it too, so here are some pics.

    32113486187_fe9defa8ba_c.jpg

    40090278763_70573f6806_c.jpg

    The large cogs should be switched on the photo. This way they wouldn't fit.

     

    33180134818_94e8975657_c.jpg

    This is what you see once it's open. Underneath the cog one can see a broken belleville washer, which should be a bit deeper underneat a smaller cog, I probably made a mistake when I briefly put things back to make the photos. One should see a ring on top of it which is part of a smaller, sliding sprocket-like part that keeps the rings contained. They can be seen at the top of the exploded views.

     

     

    33180129698_e97d4ce03b_c.jpg

    The large cog that receives the halfshaft. I now have a new ATB waiting for installation, and when comparing the splines were indeed worn, as Snagger mentioned.

     

     

    47003255942_60e2e2f03d_c.jpg

    The worm wheels sit in the pockets without any bearings or alike.

    46141483775_f7d1ee40bc_c.jpg

    Actually I was surprised about how loosely it all fits. There were also very few unpainted machined surfaces on the inside, also on the outside 'lid' which the worm wheels push against.

    47055227611_00eb883967_c.jpg

     

    Here you can clearly see a crack in the spring. Two or three spring washers were broken.

    32113558757_9b5d6035c3_c.jpg

     

     

    Drilling a bit deeper. The middle parts and upper worm wheels are out, and you can just discern the worm wheels of the other side.

    46331410824_9df6a5cde4_c.jpg

     

    Some details of the worm wheels and sprockets. There's quite some wear and some chipping to be seen. If they were truly low mileage, than I have the impression that they have already suffered a lot 

    32113469817_d9091ab3bc_c.jpg

    33180055518_686b1cb88a_c.jpg

    40090288593_f5c4c04a89_c.jpg

    33180035988_8be2e7b152_c.jpg

    46141525415_c69463ea2d_c.jpg

     

    Hope you enjoy it.

    Greetings,

    Joris

     

     

     

     


  9. Cheers all. I mailed Dave Ashcroft, asking if he could estimate their condition based on the photo, but apart from the fact that the springs are obviously cracked, he can't say anything.

    I'll ask the seller first if he's prepared to take them back, if he doesn't I'll open them.

    Actually I'm quite curious to disassemble the ATB's and see their innards. I found absolutely nothing online about opening Ashcroft ATB's (which might be a testimony to their strength) except for the post I quoted above , but I'm not prepared to invest that much money in what might be scrap just for curiosity's sake.

    J


  10. The teeth that you see are the splines for the driveshaft. The photo has been taken from the opening where you insert the halfshaft, in the lower right of the image you posted.

    Edit: your image also shows that the cracked item is most likely one of the belleville washers. Thank you for posting it!

    Joris

     


  11. Hi all,

    Just bought a set of used Ashcroft ATB's. Low mileage but probably used intensily: seller had a Disco Td5 on extreme off road tyres and upgraded to air lockers.

    The bearings sound a bit grainy and I found some dirt in the splines. Obviously it has seen a bit more than just oil, contrary to what the seller told me. Also found some cracks in what looks like a shim (photo attached). I presume that a dirty halfshaft has been installed - one can also see some rust coloured dirt in the beginning of the splines, in the out-of-focus area.

    So I think a good clean is in order. According to a post on the South African forum, the ATB's are quite easy to open and clean:

    Quote

    Opening and inspecting the ATB is easy. Nothing springs apart and only thing you need to worry about is a pack of belleville washers in the middle- you need to note how they are placed and put them back the same

    Does anyone have to add something to that?

    Greetings,

    Joris

    ATB fractures.JPG


  12. The cooler is basically a heat exchanger between the cooling circuit and the exhaust gases. If you put the blanking plate at the end, and keep the cooler active in the circuit, then it contributes to warming up the coolant . It might help getting heating a bit quicker when it's cold.(although possibly slightly since it is now a dead-end)

    Joris


  13. When the rocker cover is off, check the rockers too. My indy told that he finds worn rollers quite regularly on Td5's (although it's mentioned very rarely on the forums) and told me to always do a quick check on them whenever the cover is off. 

    The middle one showed significant wear and had to be replaced.

     

    25949634218_e68a04910c_c.jpg

    25949567568_bb331e23cf_b.jpg

    The cam is much harder, and in his long career my indy has replaced a Td5 cam shaft for this type of wear only once when it was really bad. He deemed mine ok enough to leave in place.

    I replaced the individual rocker with a used one. Unfortunately you can't buy new ones separately. Land Rover very explicitely tells never to use 10p rockers on a 15p engine. The opposite (15p rocker shaft assembly on a 10p engine) is allowed on the other hand.

    The damage turned out to exist for a while already, since it shows on a picture I made when changing the wiring loom 35k ago. I completely missed it at the time:

    28043865639_8a31e9ccb5_b.jpg

    Here's how I kept the injectors in the right sequence. I also noted it on paper as a back-up:

    38923484655_6a90d449d8_b.jpg

    This injector seal has been replaced about 10 thousand miles ago:

    28044012339_ac330de745_b.jpg

    while these have served at least 40 thousand miles. That's when I bought the car. If they are the originals than they lived through approx 80k:

    39822420071_8d83f9c123_b.jpg

    Give the O-rings a smidge of lubrication before fitting the injector and take care that the seal doesn't fall off. You can help them to remain in place by using a tiny bit of grease to stick them to the injector.

    Hope this all helps,

    Joris

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