[Front End Shake]

Steering must be adjusted with the steering straight ahead. You will have play in the steering on full lock.

I thought the reason was because when the box is centered the gears / shaft teeth are at their closest so when you adjust it at full lock the steering goes ealy stiff and binds a bit when you turn back to center?

[Front End Shake]

Steering dampers only mask problems, running no damper with a correctly set up steering and tight system would not result in the shakes

For me is normally the steering box adjuster that needs fettling, otherwise the swivels seem to be the cause for other people

[Steering box replacement]

I've just had the same problem mate, but the other way around. I had to replace my pump and pipes whilst keeping the box.

The solution I found was to chop the box-ends off the old and new PAS pipes and swap them over, fitting them together with readily available flanges from a hydraulic specialist (well...a man in a barn in deepest, darkest Warwickshire with an inexplicably large collection of brass!). Cost a fiver plus the cost of the pipe.

Worked for me, although you could probably get some flexi-hoses made up for the same money. Much prettier and easier to shoe-horn into a cramped engine bay.

I am speaking with NPS who provided the box tomorrow as they were meant to provide the correct box and at no point was I asked / informed about different union types. Paddock (who I got the box through) was useles and kept saying ther is only one 6 bolt bow and couln't seem to grasp the fact I have two boxes with the same code stamped on them but different union joints, they were very polite about it but the member of staff did say she didn't even know what a union was so not sure how sh could have helped anyway.

So are there names for these twodifferent union styles? One seems to be a bottom face sealing and the other a side hole sealing one.

The replacement box came with the correct rubber seals for my old box and union type again indicating the union is wrong????

[Defender 300TDI Alarm]

Sounds like a previous owner had an alarm problem and unplugged the sounder to me!

Doesn't the battery backed up sounder have a key on the back to turn off the sounder?

[steering joints]

Just double checked the wheel bearings and endfloat after doing the swivels - but all ok, but I am still getting some kick back through the steering when I go over a few poor surfaces on our delightfully tarmaced roads at say 50mph and it seems a bit 'light' at speed.

Based upon findings elsewhere here it seems to point to steering joints or panhard bushes (?) The upper joint 'seems' to have a tiny bit of play in it when I check it in situ with somebody rocking the steering - should there be any at all?

Thanks

Is there any play in the steering box? as that is another source of play along with the cv joints you mentioned, mine are pretty solid with very little play in them (just had them off to change the steering box out.

If the box has some play in a small turn of the top adjuster wil take it out.

[Steering box replacement]

Yes, most hydro places will have common adapters for popular threads, and will be able to identify the threads if you take them in (which could take a bit of effort admittedly). You may end up with a couple of adapters screwed together to get to and from the correct thread, or you may end up getting some shiny new pipes made up with the right ends so it all looks lovely and neat.

Hyphose are the guys I use, they're all around the place. There's also Pirtek (who I find less helpful), as well as any number of local places.

The plot thickens

Just tried the plug bolts from the new Box in the old on and they are the same thread, so it seems the shape of the union joint drilled in the box is different. The flanged pipe end with the o-ring can't go down far enough to seal on the sides. This also means that the threaded locking nut part can't reach the thread cut into the box.

Has anyone got any pictures of the steering box pipe end they could post?

Fear my MS Paint skills

[Steering box replacement]

is your old one 3 bolt?

Nope a 6 bolt

[Steering box replacement]

A trip to your local hydraulics supplier should see it sorted with a couple of adapters, I'd be surprised if it cost you more than £10-20. You could get new hoses made up to spec for a few quid more.

so I can get metric/imperial adapters that screw in?

I found some posts on here regarding pipetek that seems to be an option.

I think what has happened is that when the TDI Disco engine was dropped in they changed the TD steering box as well to give a metric to metric hose. Not knowing this I bought a Defender 6 bolt box and got an imperial Defender box.

I am assuming the disco parts being later are metric?

Does anyone know the thread types/sizes?

cheers

[Steering box replacement]

After the fun and games of removing the old box and getting the new one on, I go to do the final bit of connectign the pipes when I find the pipe sockets are totally different

The ones on the new box are shallow and rounded at the base where the old ones are deeper and narrower

It is for a 1990 Land Rover 90 and is a 6 bolt box

Any ideas before I call up Paddock and rant?

No weekend green laneing for me now

edit a quick nosey around the forum and it appears that there are metric and imperial fittings.

My 90 has had a 200 tdi from a disco fitted if that would have made a difference?

old one

new one

[Steering Box]

EPC tells me no the RR2 track rod ends only fit that model.

for a 90/110/Defender you need 2 x rtc5869 right hand thread & 1 x rtc5870 left hand thread.

Cheers for that, not a biggy as mine are ok, just have these new ones knocking about

[Steering Box]

You don't need to change any pipes if you're replacing a 6 bolt with a 4 bolt. 3-bolt PAS boxes have different fittings but 6 and 4 bolt boxes use identical ones.

ah well I have a 6 bolt coming now thanks anyway

My box is now randomly going tight than normal tight then normal, so definitely time to replace it.

Also while I am at it does anyone know it the steering drag link / rod ends from a Range Rover p38 fit as I bought some for my rangie but didn't need them so was thinking of popping them onto the Defender while I was doing the steering box?

Cheers chaps

Steve

[Insa Turbo Sahara Vs Recip Trial]

I went from some 235/85/r16 to the 31/10.5/r15 and I lost 0.7" so only 0.35" of ground clearance, I also found they rubbed at full lock where the wider tyres on the steel 8 spokes didn't.

As for asthetics it is a very personnel thing, I don't have any lift on my 90 and thought the 235s looked way to thin for their height and a bit retro, the 31/10.5 look more purposeful, fill the arches and I don't notice the minor drop in diameter.

And on the road I do think I notice a slight raise in revs on the motorway but I don't tend to hussel in her anyway (I have the Rangie for that)

At then end of the day tyres are a very personnel thing and ideally you would anet to try them on like running shoes before purchase but they don't seem to like taking them back with mub on them

[Steering Box]

Can't you fit a longer adjustment bolt?

They didn't invent threaded bar for nothing you know!!

I tried winding it in so the locking nut was only holding a couple of threads (still didn't get all teh slack out) and it came undone losing all preload on the top seal and peeing fluid out everywhere, not to mention the randome degrees of slack I was gettin in the steering

You should be able to drain them and pour in slightly bigger ball bearings

Paddock do a 6 bolt recon for £200 odd with a £100 refund on return of the old box which seems a good deal. I have used Paddock a air bit over the years and have had excellent service and part quality has never been an issue (touch wood) so was thinking of getting it from them, unless there is some where better / cheaper?

I think I will just get another 6 bolt as I can't be bothered changing pipes if I can avoid it.

[Insa Turbo Sahara Vs Recip Trial]

Another quick Question Steve - What's the average depth of your Insa Turbo's when new?

This goes for the Recip Trials if anyone knows?

The arc of the axel as it rises/twists pulls them within the arches, even with a straight axel compression doesn't seem to cause a rub, neither does turning full lock as the steel wheels have a greater offset pushing them out more than LR wheels.

Tread depth is 20mm or so, I am really impressed with them, I wouldn't have been disapointed at twice the price (but then I am no hardcore challenge event type )

As for Green lanes there are about 6-7 that we go on around lewes and Heathfield way, some are very sedate others involve really pushing through overgrown bushes without dropping into a marsh

Seems to be a vast lack of Greenlanes down south

[Steering Box]

check the column jints are in good order as they maybe at fault.

I had a look at those and they are solid, you can see the input shaft of the box turning 1/8th or so of a turn before the arm moves, the box's adjuster has been wound in all the way to take the slack out by the previous owner, leaving me with the fun of replacing it

[90 Rear Propshaft]

Just discovered that one of the yokes on my rear prop has a chunk missing out of it so I need to replace it.

Looking on Paddocks site there are numerous props listed. How do they differ? I would have thought that the LT230 stays in the same place relative to the rear axle irrespective of gearbox or engine combo?

The vehicle was originally a 1989 2.5TD with LT77 and LT230. Now it is 200TDi and ZF auto B) . However, the t-box has not moved position.

So, before I go place a wanted add, which prop do I need?

Cheers!

I had a collapsed bearing in my rear and had a bit of a mare as it tuned out someone had fitted a front prop fitted at the back!!!

Anyway I have a 90 with a 200tdi fitted and fitted a FRC8392 propshaft (a drum brake prop although not sure there is any difference between that and the disc'd axel?)

A Prop tool makes life easier when attacking the bolts if you haven't already got one.

[Steering Box]

Apart from pipe layout and the bolts on the top of the box is there any real differenct in the boxes?

The reason I ask is mine has run out of adjustment and I still have more than the normal "Land Rover Tolerance" play in the steering, so I need to get a reconned one, and mine is a 6 bolt jobbie.

If there is a benefit to a 3 or 4 bolt over the 6 bolt that is worth altering the pipes for then now would obviously the time to switch. I am not after work for the sake of it as I have enough scabby bits that need my attention without making new problems

Thanks as ever chaps.

[Insa Turbo Sahara Vs Recip Trial]

As Promised some pics

31 / 10.5 / R15 on 15x8 8 spoke wheels, They fill the arches beautifully and cause no wheel rub without even touching the steering stops.

Performance wise they just ate up the boggy old green lanes we went on at the weekend, My mate in his Disco with BFG ATs (not an apple for apples comparison) had real troubles and where I drove without even thinking about it he had to keep re-attempting and eventually had to be winched out by yours truly

Road noise was un-noticeable but then the inside of a bare Defender is hardly silent to start with, road manners were fine (didn't really much of a change) even up to 80 odd. The big tread gap did pick up and hurl some impressive sized stones about though )

I paid £395 odd for 4 wheels and Tyres which seems a bargain

Any questions give me a shout

I am also in West Sussex if you want to have a look in person and am also called Steve funnily enough

[Thinking about a 4.6 HSE]

Do it

I have a 1996 4.6 HSE with 65k on the clock, drives like a dream, it is like going to work in your front room

I have changed the bags and taken a bit of slack out of the steering box but that's it.

As has been said they have something like 11 ecus in them and can have electrical issues.

With the current economic and petrol situation you can get them for buttons!

[Prop shaft mystery]

lol I did think about that.

I need to get some new bolts to replace the captie ones on the transbox flange as I was sent 8 short diff end bolts

Will post back tomorrow once I have fitted it

Cheers chaps

[Prop shaft mystery]

Could it be the Daefender has been lifted and a front was used to give a bit more length?

[Prop shaft mystery]

I went to fit the propshaft FRC8392 (rear prop on drum brakes) and it is 1" shorter when collapsed than the one I am taking off.

After some cleaning of the old prop to get the serial I find it is a FRC8390 A front Prop????

could it be some one was saving pennies and used a to hand front on the rear and using the longitudinal prop adjustment to make up the difference (or lose the extra length shoulds I say)?

The original prop (incorrect front on the back) had very little of the top part of the prop pulled out, how much is meant to be exposed on the rear? as this prop should fit but will have more "pulled out" when in situ'

I am confused!!!

[Rear Prop]

After a read through the workshop manual it is clear that the flange shaft seals agains the rear output shaft seal and as it wasn't leaking before (and the box is a reconditioned unit not that long ago) so the seal should be fine.

[Rear Prop]

After receiving my prop spanner (makes life so easy) I set to work getting the knackered prop off (proper collapsed bearing on a CV yoke).

Bolts off diff union no probs

First 3 off the transfer box end fine

4th.......

.....Turns....

...hmmm turns a bit too freely....

carp the nut is spinning like a gooden, The nut had been over tightened on fitting and nailed the nut / bolt thread.

Luckily I had pre-empted issues and ordered some replacement bolts so I ground the blighter off.

So I just need to... Oh wait the Philips headed bolts holding the brake drum are rounded!!!!

Off with the flange nut and off with the whole lot.

As there is a seal on the transfer box around the flange shaft it is normal for the box oil to come out? or is a deeper seal meant to keep it all in?

I wanted to change all the fluids anyway

[Defender 90 A-Frame]

suppose it depends if the diffs are both the same number of splines???

True

Short of pulling the half shfts is there a way to tell?