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filthy boy

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Posts posted by filthy boy

  1. I am lucky enough to own a farm and a lot of land for which i have wanted to convert for years as a lot of it is not used..

    I am addicted without been in it from teh day of watchung this on sky whebn we first got it years and years ago..

    Feed your addiction, get yourself a birthday present, make use of all that land, cut out the first few years and just get a buggy! :P

    Just kidding. Just get out and play / compete.

    Tim

    PS easy to wash and no rust!

  2. Lara

    It is written and the text was quoted to me. It was not "the man who knows", it was the head of the policy team who writes it.

    So with all due respect **** off!

    If you read what I posted it states you have to have a SOLID (in capitals to avoid you missing it) link. I doubt you will get your mercury to freeze, likewise hydraulic fluid.

    Anyway, as I said I don't really give a stuff what people build.

    Tim

    Tim,

    With all due respect,

    This is just the total bo11ocks that I have been mentioning!!!

    "I spoke with the man who knows" This is utter Bul5hit!

    Either it is written or it is not!!!

    Metal or similar properties!

    Mercury is a metal No?

    It's got similar properties to hydraulic oil No?

    So it's OK No?

    Solid link of "material"

    Define "material" cardboard? rubber" sticky-backed plastic?

    The rubber of the pipework is solid! I can't see any hydraulic oil swilling around the steering so it seems that we have a solid rubber link, so if I change the pipes to inconel convoluted pipework, is that ok?

    Exactly, It isn't written because "it could not possibly be written"

    Think about what you are saying! you are certainly bright enough,

    Please NO BUL5HIT ........... just "written regulations"

    Conditions and Use! explain the infringement of hydraulic steering then, made for this condition and being used as such, LEGAL!!!

    I have read that also and no mention of hydraulic or / and a metal bloody link either!

    Thank you.

    Lara

    It's late and I am still office working so need to vent :P

  3. Here we go again!

    I spoke with the man from DFT who writes Con and Use regs. Rightly or wrongly, you have to have a SOLID link of material, metal or similar properties (so carbon fibre is okay) from wheel to steering wheel.

    You can argue against this all you want and produce evidence of how your solution worked fine but that is the policy / regulation / law.

    Problem is that your insurance will be void and you can be prosecuted if you are in an accident. If you want to take the risk doesn't bother me (unless you drive into me! :blink: )

    If you call DFT, ask for the Con and Use policy section and ask for a definitive answer on steering and they will tell you directly.

    Like having an agricultural reg. That only entitles you to go from your farm to your field (or forest). Not on overseas events!!

    So build whatever you want but this IS the rule.

    Tim

    PS Might be quite funny if a bored VOSA man turns up outside an event and starts impounding and crushing vehicles :P

  4. Spent months looking into this, including axle mounted racks.

    Problem with separate servo and box is that without a lot of tuning and cleverness they will fight each other giving some nasty feedback through the steering.

    Discussed this with some US suppliers who had spent a lot of time and $ trying to make this work with no luck.

    Just get a proper steering box and a high flow pump! :P

    Tim

  5. To answer the questions thus far...

    Vehicles will not need to be road taxed or road legal. (From 2009 vehicles will not need to be taxed to compete in AWDC challenges either)

    Rear steer will not be allowed but hydro steer will.

    Been done before? Maybe but I don't believe there are many new ideas under the sun, just fresh angles :P

    Kirton big enough? I think a 2-3 mile lap is possible plus if Roger hands over the keys we could be looking at a 2 day event on 2 adjacent sites :blink:

    As said before, we are in the planning stages. We have a site, manpower, insurance & enthusiasm all we need now are drivers.

    Any tyre size regulations? Please say no! <_<

    After all, any advantages gained through tyre size will be lost because the axles will keep breaking.

    Sounds like an absolutely excellent idea.

    Tim

  6. Well; as I live over here, I might as well chime in. My favorite is 4WD & Sport Utility Magazine. I believe it is a Peterson's publication. Also if you want to see what's really popular statesside these days, pick up a copy of 8-lug magazine. It is dedicated to the 3/4 and 1 ton diesel market. JP magazine is probably the best of the jeep mags, and 4 wheeler is not bad, either.

    And to make Four Wheeler even better this months contents page features a double page picture of our car flying through the air!

    I am biased but worth buying just for that :P

    Tim

  7. sorry boothy but you've been a little mislead, pump failure, dead engine or low fluid will still leave you with steering on an orbitrol setup, if you pull a hose off then the steering becomes inoperative.

    in a similar vein to a sector shaft snapping, tre's snapping, drag links, arms etc.

    I know what will break first and its not full hydro.

    theres no requirement for a mechanical link in a PLG vehicle MOT test - RTM.

    For any of the type of vehicles we are running to be LEGALLY on the road there MUST be a mechanical steering link from steering wheel to steered wheels that is of metal or material with similar properties. This is the official policy line from DfT. This is what makes a vehicle legal to be on the road, NOT the MOT. C&U is the fundamental rule that always applies. I had this discussion with the policy lead at DfT who writes C&U. Not some MOT tester who knows my aunties cousins monkey handler.

    If you are in a vehicle that is modified to full hydraulic and you have an accident on the road then you are driving an illegal vehicle, does not matter a jot if you wave your MOT certificate about. Your insurance company will declare your insurance void, although will probably have to honour any third party claim. They will then pursue you to recover this cost. Meanwhile you will be having a serious talk with the police and facing some pretty stiff penalties depending how much harm your accident may have caused.

    The defence "my hydro is built really well Ossifer so it won't / shouldn't have broken" is not very robust! :rolleyes:

    Having said that there is no problem running full hydro. Howe have been testing some in the desert well in excess of 100 mph. It is just not legal to run it on UK roads. MOT or not. FULL STOP

    Tim

    PS Chris, got an SVA for that portal conversion? ;)

  8. Tim, you've run them, I haven't. However this doesn't sound too good - the plating on the shaft of an expensive shock should last. I'd certainly be concerned if my rod that goes in and out turned brown and pitted :P

    Will

    You should stop using a water based lube!

    Tim

  9. Tim, I've heard several reports that Oram aren't really up to the job when I comes to high speed use. This may not be so much of an issue for potential customers but then why spend the extra over OME (I never had complaints with their quality) or Koni (I've heard some good reports). Unless, of course you want a very long shock in which case Pro Comp do a good range in cheap, long shocks. I've got no first hand experience Orams though so I'm only going on what I've been told.

    Big rod long travel shock for a specific purpose. Not designed for high speed use. No bypasses, no blow-off.

    Doesn't mean its a bad shock, just means it is being used in the wrong application. Never built as a desert race / high speed shock.

    Can't really make a straight comparison between a long travel big rod shock and a more normal design. What about pistons, valving, seals? More to it than two bits sliding in and out of each other :P

    Tim

    PS last bit is good natured sarcasm and should be taken as such!! Don't want to get misunderstood ;)

  10. Dont remind me pete, i nearly sent for the damn digger. what was it 3 winches ,2 snatchblocks and a quick release range rover crossmember. the winch didnt stalll either just kept pulling cars towards the mire.

    note the wall of mud and stones

    I think using a bathtub on portals with silly big tyres and digging up the course so nobody else can come after you should be considered cheating. Mind you as the last person through before you did it maybe I should be grateful??

    Tim

    PS did you have a nice weekend in Sevenoaks (or wherever it is that Jim lives?) ;)

  11. Some people have had difficulties installing these so I thought I would share todays experience of mounting some 37 x 12.5 BFG Krawlers on 17 x 9 aluminium rims with Staun beadlocks. These are the latest version with the tyre valve on a separate air channel. Didn't have the correct length valve channel as they come in 3 lengths to suit different rim widths and we really need the longest, but these ones work and are just harder to fit as there is less to tuck under the tyre bead.

    Tools required:

    1 patio

    rubber mat to protect rim

    blocks of wood, 2x2 in this case

    2 tyre levers

    2 "third hands" (the yellow things in the photos)

    bead lubricant

    compressor (little 12 volt one for me)

    Here is rim with inner bead on, on rubber mat with tyre supported about 6" so I can reach inside it

    16072008041.jpg

    16072008042.jpg

    Feed the inner bead of the Staun over the rim

    16072008043.jpg

    16072008044.jpg

    Drop the tyre down a couple of inches so the inner tyre bead drops away and gives more space to insert the inner tube.

    This is the valve flap. Fit this being careful to get the inner tube out from under it! Bit fiddly but no real problem.

    16072008045.jpg

    Now fit the outer bead with the levers, third hand tool is fantastic! Tyre lube helps the bead on but makes the levers slip off more easily. Using the great named Super Slick 'em. Probably has a multitude of uses and smells a bit citrusy!

    16072008047.jpg

    16072008048.jpg

    Being careful not to pick up the Staun liner with the tip of the lever. Finish at the valve and make sure the channel is lying properly (easier with the longer one!).

    16072008050.jpg

    Use the beadlock to seat the bead. Inflate to required pressure and away you go!

    First 1 took 45 minutes, second 1 just under 30.

    Tim

  12. tbh, sounds a bit scary for high speed events

    the saginaw box you use, you think it lasts longer than the rover boxes?

    what kind is it?

    Saginaw 4 bolt inside frame LHD, running outside on RH side of frame, becomes RHD.

    Built up by Howe. Supposed to be very good but time will tell!

    Tim

  13. I got the mark 1 set with only 1 way option & it broke a Tay :ph34r:

    He is now experimenting with the lightweight ally version sponsored by Stella.

    Did you get your pm? They are more like you need. 2 mile radius and a whole party!

    How's your wiring? I have Brassoed my axles ready for Bling! :P

    Tim

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