Hamish Grundy

I am running auto yes. I have found that 600rpm is the target idle for an auto when in gear. So if I sort the switch problem then that should sort it. I will have a look at fixing the fault properly first Micheal then see where I go from there. It’ll be out laying out for the majors this weekend so it’ll have to stay as it is for now.

Throttle is fully closed, have adjusted stop as plenum is new. Have checked every hose to do with the air intake. Most other v8’s I have had have idled about 750, but I have never checked the target rpm before. I do have a fault to do with the gearbox but would that cause the target rpm to be lower?!

I should also add that the stepper motor gets to the point that it’s reading 0% at 600rpm. Hence I went down the air leak route.

Hi all. Firstly apologies as I’ve not been on here for so long! First time in a while and. I need some help. 😢 I have a 4.2 which I have fully rebuilt. It is running on megajolt and 14cux injection. All runs fine except the idle speed. I am monitoring everything on rover gauge and it is asking for a target idle speed of 600rpm. I have set the base idle to 540ish rpm. I have used brake cleaner to look for an air leak around the plenum and trumpet base but all is fine. I would like an idle speed more like 750. It is quite lumpy at 600!! I will try to upload a few pictures. Any help is greatly appreciated

ive tightened it up but its still leaking, just wondering what seals the splines? surely there should be an oring maybe?

Hi, i have done a search and could only find leaks from the o ring on the back of the hub, mine is leaking down the splines of the shaft, i found that the nut on the half shaft was loose but it does still leak, what should seal this? i was thinking of putting an oring behind the nut. have i got something missing? thanks alot. Hamish

im hoping to make a tray for the winch that bolts in using the front tow point bolts and the bumper bolts and the panhard rod bracket mounts. and have a tow point within that. should work i hope. i still want to do alrc as enjoy it. wouldnt miss majors and nationals etc.

hoping to fit winch between the wings.

thanks for all the replies, i think i will go for the champion to start with due to cost. when i biult the 80 i fitted a s1 style grille so am hoping the winch will nestle between the wings nicely. i am hoping that maybe doing trialing for as long as i have may allow me to drive abit more than i winch maybe. il have a look out for a local event and go along for a look first. i wouldnt biuld anything else i dont think as i enjoy doing the alrc events so dont fancy a full on challenge truck. but you never no!!

can anyone help? please

Hi,firstly my apologies for not being on here for such a long time. Recently i have been looking at getting into challenge events with maybe MOC or midwest. What i am wondering is....Can i stick a winch on my ALRC ccv 80 and compete in class 1?? or is there more to it? and has anyone got any suggestions on which winch to start with? been looking at a champion HS 9500. any good? many thanks Hamish

sorry i meant tomcat springs in the last post, not tomcat mounts as i put, i use tomcat springs on the back mines an 80 300tdi auto and its fine with them, standard 'old' disco springs on the front.

hi, when i biult my 80 i was going to fit shocks with turrets but the travel is restricted by the spring seat, as the axle drops the wheel goes under the vechicle and catches the chassis or spring seat. i am running plus 5 rough country shocks with challenge mounts on pin pin fixings, with tomcat mounts. from what i understand they are fitted like this to give better damping, due to using softer springs. hope that helps

i fitted the crown wheel off the p38, its narrower, and fitted fine, it doesnt wine at all, i fitted this as a cheaper way of getting myself a 4 pin, i cannot afford machining costs etc, it is not a bodge, its been in there 3 years now and has never played up at all (touching wood) the question was asked will it fit, yes it will and without spending alot of money. if you want to go to the extent of that cost that is up to you, i just used what resources i have to do it cheaply, surely that is what competition is all about, ive done everything on my 80, and and proud to say i have, it is not bodged as you put it, any one can buy a machined 4 pin. i just prefer to make the best of what i have and save money in the process. and as future reference i had biult it after reading a thread on this forum.

i fitted the crown wheel off the p38, its narrower, and fitted fine, it doesnt wine at all, i fitted this as a cheaper way of getting myself a 4 pin, i cannot afford machining costs etc, it is not a bodge, its been in there 3 years now and has never played up at all (touching wood) the question was asked will it fit, yes it will and without spending alot of money. if you want to go to the extent of that cost that is up to you, i just used what resources i have to do it cheaply, surely that is what competition is all about, ive done everything on my 80, and and proud to say i have, it is not bodged as you put it, any one can buy a machined 4 pin. i just prefer to make the best of what i have and save money in the process. and as future reference i had biult it after reading a thread on this forum.

all it required was grinding to allow the bolt heads to clear the casing, i have no pics of it as its in the motor now, but i assure you it is in there, it was an evenings work. have you tried fitting the p38 crown wheel on it?

p38 4 pin diffs will fit, but only the centre of it. buy a complete 4 pin p38 diff, remove your diff, remove the diff centre and crown wheel, unbolt crown wheel form the centre part. remove p38 centre and crown wheel, unbolt crown wheel. bolt your ORIGINAL crown wheel with your bolts to the p38 centre, fit in to your original casing. a small amount of grinding may be required if the bolt heads catch on the casing, but you will see this as you offer it up. remember if you do need to do any grinding remove the pinion bearing first. i made a 4 pin like this for my 80, 3 years later havnt touched it. hope that helps

great, thanks alot, i had it priced up at a garage to do the sump gasket and front crank seal, just because i cant be bothered to lie on my back gettin covered in oil again £198inc vat, guess il be getting covered again!! thanks again. Hamish

hi all. i had to replace the sump on my discovery the other day due to the front edge leaking. i cleaned up the block and the new sump,and used a suitable sealant, cant remember the name but it wasnt silicone. anyway after a few days it has began to leak again at the back this time. i cant find a gasket listed anywhere so am assuming it is supposed to be a liquid gasket, what sealant to you all use? i dont mind if its expensive, its a carp job to do without having to do it twice.! ha. thanks again. Hamish

yeah that does sound like it to me. thanks for that, any idea how to get the key out?

Hi all, i bought my discovery in august 2010, ive had quite a few problems with it since. but the main issue at the moment is the key. when i bought it the key was broken off in the barrel, there was still half left so it starts and ran fine at the time, however recently it has failed to start a few times, the other week after a short journey i stopped it the left it for 5-10mins, went back to it and it span over but wouldnt fire. got out locked it, unlocked and it started. it did that 3-4 times since. then the other day after a short trip again, i got in turned the key and nothing at all. all the usual lights came on but wouldnt turn over. tried locking unlocking etc made no difference. left it for 4 hours ish, started. its done it 3 times since then. im wondering if the broken key is anything to do with it. i swirted wd40 in the barrel and it does seem better so far. how can i get the rest of the key out? its a n reg 300tdi disco. 196000. cheers hamish

update....ive blanked the egr and replaced the top hose, it has stopped smoking and fuel consumption seems alot better so fingers crossed its sorted, but seeing as i dont use it very often il have to wait and see. thanks for all your help.

ive just plumbed my waste gate pipe into the manifold and t'ed off that to a gauge. i then blanked off the pipe going to the wastegate and left the fuel pump pipe on there. working well so far. thats on my 300tdi though. hamish

yes i think it did earlier when i was sat at the lights, its hard to tell realy, bit of a mix of black and blue. ive taken the breather off air intake and blanked it off where it goes on to the turbo pipe. also when i rev it flat out a bit of smoke comes out of the egr valve?? is that right, my dads doesnt do it.

personaly i wouldnt bother with plus 5 shocks on the front, i run standard length rough country shocks on the front, the amount of travel i have on the back more than makes up for it, there isnt many times i get cross axled, i just want a better shock that might stiffen up the back end, with the tomcat springs its a bit bouncy at times.