Chicken Drumstick

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Chicken Drumstick last won the day on November 4 2016

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About Chicken Drumstick

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  1. I have to say. I personally love big fat wide tyres for the monster truck look. But narrow tyres often go so much better on U.K. terrain. Real 7.50's are a really nice size. Good steering lock, quick responsive steering off road. And often grip way better than wide tyres unless you are on sand. Narrower tyres often give better road mpg too. So to that end if anyone wants 7.50's I'd advise them to go for it.
  2. It sadly is a common trait these days. More so in the remould market. That they sell the exact same size tyre and just stamp one as a 7.50. But they aren't. They are 235's and often wide 235's. And makes buying proper 7.50's even harder.
  3. A 180hp 3.9 V8 doesn't need much flow though.... I struggle to believe flow is really an issue worth addressing unless you are adding forced induction.
  4. Depends entirely on the tyre in question. As there seems to be no recognised standard on where the width of a tyre is measure from, i.e. is it bead to bead, shoulder to shoulder, or tread to tread. And if the latter do you include large lugs that stick out from the tyre. I/we have a lot of tyres. And the proper 7.50 x 16's are all way narrower than the narrowest 235/85R16. And the 235's vary massively. I don't really have the right pictures online. But these are 235's These are 7.50's These are also another set of wide 235's, treat is way more than 180mm In fact, many of the 235's we have are as wide or quite a few cases wider than an 8.25 x 16 tyre. These aren't 235's, but demonstrate the variety of physical sizes for a given tyre size spec.
  5. The thing to consider is, are you going just for noise, or for performance. Tubular manifolds flow better than the stock log style ones, but in all honesty, not to any amount that really affects performance on a stock RV8. What they do typically do is a thing called exhaust scavenging. The longer the primary pipes the better. This can provide a noticeable difference to the engine. Although as a rule it'll move the power curve slightly to the right... so some people may claim it feels less powerful low down. But probably is more a case of just feeling more revvy at the mid and top end. The issue is, I'm not sure there are many long tube headers available for a 90. Rimmer Bros list some that look interesting, although maybe still a little on the short side. Short primary pipes will scavenge at high rpm... as in higher than the RV8 revs at. Which is why you want long primary pipes, to get the scavenging in the lower rpm. Now, it is possible to strangle a V8 running a Y pipes and single exhaust. But the RV8 is not a HP monster, so you don't need to go overboard on anything stupid, but if you are after power, then it's all worth considering. On a stock engine, good breathing mods will make the engine drive and feel nicer. More free revving and should promote some power. Their biggest gains however will be if you combine it with a cam or cam & head mods. Good breathing mods, such as tubular manifolds will affect the a/f ratio, so you may need to compensate for this somehow to get the most from it and no negative effects. As for the actual exhaust, really depends on your budget. Rimmer Bros sell an entire system with manifolds, no idea how good it is, but it's a one shot deal. A custom exhaust however will give you a lot more freedom. And remember, even if you do go for off the shelf or a custom exhaust, there is no reason you couldn't get it altered afterwards by a custom exhaust shop. So if it turns out to be too loud or too quiet, you could add/remove a silencer, or go for a different type/size silencer. While on this, different silencer types will make it sound completely different too. Chambered silencers vs glass pack vs straight thru. And they can have a serious affect on flow rate too. Only thing you can do is some research on what you think you like the sound of. However, I would say, no two RV8's ever sound quite the same. I used to run a cammed 3.5 RV8 in my TR7. I swapped it for a 3.9. Same exhaust including headers and same carb and inlet manifold. But they sounded completely different.
  6. A 235 is actually a heck of a lot wider than a 'proper' 7.50. It's a real shame the market has been polluted this way, so much so that it's now somehow taken as acceptable. Technically a 235 is also too wide for Series LR rims. You'll normally want a 6j rim as the minimum width. Btw 7.5" is only 190mm.
  7. Yeah just me having a dumb moment I think
  8. ok, thanks. Hadn't noticed it was a link when on my phone, lol Interestingly that link shows two possibilities and the replies after it have two further people claiming they can't find the numbers on the actual chassis either. Will have to have another look at mine. Ta
  9. Funny I don't see anything in the quote just 'Here you are' then blank space.
  10. Ta. Afraid I can't see anything in the post you quoted. And I guess this is the question I'm really asking. Is that D1 or D2 you are referencing as I've seen people say front RH chassis rail by the bolts for the steering box. Google seems to throw up at least 2 or maybe 3 different locations. But I'm yet to find anyone actually claiming if any are correct or showing a photo. Thus far I've not been able to find any on my Disco chassis but unsure if I'm just looking in the wrong place. Thabks.
  11. I'm not sure where the tyres came from, but might well have been Vass. I have One Ton rims that came from their and are moderately local to me. My Uncle sourced the tyres a good number of years ago. We have 5, one brand new with the little knobbles on the tread still. 2 part worn and 2 a bit more worn. I'd love to find an extra 1 to replace the most worn pair. But no luck and I suspect silly money. I did speak to someone who reckoned they could source them, but would need a few months lead time and I think was coming in at over £400 a tyre!! Bar grips look cool, not too sure about their road manners though. But I do keep thinking about getting some for my other Land Rover.
  12. As others have mentioned, the 109 One Ton model came standard on 9.00 x 16 tyres. As did all of the Land Rover Forward Controls (Series 2b and 101). However the 109 One Ton was lifted from the factory, it has a different spring mount and a longer shackle. Fitting longer shackles is easy, but you will slightly alter the pinion angle of the diff, hence why LR also changed the mounting points. But for most people it's not a big deal to just run the shackles. However be warned, 9.00 x 16 tyres are rare and there is very little choice in tread patterns and they are also expensive. They also vary in height considerably. I've seen some hardly anymore than 33" tall, while others are 36" tall. I believe Michelin have often cited a 225/100 16 as a 'similar' size. According to the maths these should result in 33.72" tall. I say this, as obviously 36" tall tyres are going to be huge on a Series. And they will affect gearing, performance and risk of axle breakages. This is my Series, I'm currently running some Michelin XZL 8.25 x 16 tyres. This are even rarer and fall in between the common 7.50 x 16 and the 9.00 x 16. These are significantly taller than a 7.50 x 16 XZL and are taller than 235/85R16's by an inch or so. I'll be honest and say, I think a 9.00 x 16 is it was taller than the 8.25's (which it should be), then it'd be a little too tall unless you have beefed up axles and plenty of power. When the 8.25's are worn out, I'll probably have to replace them with 255/85R16's as the closest modern size, although they are fair chunk wider.
  13. I'm sure this has been asked loads of times. But Google isn't being exactly definitive in it's answer. Can anyone tell me the exact location (a photo would be great) of where the chassis number should be stamped on a 200tdi Disco 1 please? Many thanks
  14. The other thought is, while crawling around at 5mph might result in electric fans being on and using power, it's not as if you are needing the extra power at that speed, so it matters not that they are using some.
  15. Just curious, does anyone know of any options for some exhaust manifolds for a V8 90? The vehicle in question is a factory V8 with the LT-85. It had a custom stainless exhaust many years ago, basically from the Y piece back. We fitted new downpipes then. But one has rotted through and looks like the actual log manifold has had it too. I've seen some tubular manifolds listed for Classic Range Rover's and the p38 seems to use a different manifold. But does anyone know what fits and works on a 90? Not sure how much bulkhead and chassis clearance there is by comparison. Thanks.