Chicken Drumstick

Haven't seen this one posted. Pretty good write up IMO and some interesting points.

What brand, where they remoulds? A 235 should be distinctly narrower over a 265. Remould 7.50's can vary quite a bit, but 'new' no-remould brands should be fairly even with sizing. A 265 is substantially wider than a 235.

All/most of the reputable brands should be a good tyre. Really depends what your are after tread wise. As for size. 235/85 or 7.50 x 16 are great sizes that work well on a Land Rover. A 265/75 is about the same height but fatter. If you want taller the 255/85 is a nice tyre. But expensive and very limited choice of tread. 285/75 not quite as tall but taller than the others. But a lot fatter. That’s about your choice in 16” unless you want fatter again and arguably too big. There is a distinct lack of tall thin tyres. A 9.00 x 16 would be nice if there was some choice.

Its a good simple unit used in 100's of different vehicles and well proven. It is no power monster, although back in the day it was pretty good compared to contemporaries. I currently have 3 of them and have owned more of them. They are a nice way to get 200hp and a smooth running awesome soundtrack. These days though you can have another 100 Horse Power+ and as good or better mpg from a more modern V8. In the USA it would be easy and cheap to pick up an LS/LQ Chevy engine for very low cost. Or even a 5.7 Hemi from a Dodge/Chrysler. But getting a 4.0/4.6 RV8 over shouldn't be all that hard being as they were sold there too. Which would make for a more factory and "Rover" setup.

Auto box I agree, I'd personally prefer a manual. But a V8 goes with a 110 like butter goes with bread. The factory even sold them with V8's fitted

I would too. I think the top spec is about 60k Aus$, which would be about £32k here.

Looks to be more than I thought. https://shop.cummins.com/SC/product/cummins-r28-turbo-diesel-crate-engine-5467036/01t4N0000048ikGQAQ For the UK/EU it'd be a really nice engine bar the price. In the US I can only see it making sense if you plan on doing big miles each year and need to watch the mpg. But anyone spending this kind of money on an engine is unlikely to be fussed about mpg and general running costs I'd have thought. Looks like an LS3 crate engine has gone up in price, but still half the cost of the 2.8 Cummins.... I would think a 5.3 cast iron block LQ engine from a junk yard would be a nice engine and likely the cheapest route. Only real issue is what you do about the transmission. There are a few LT230 to GM auto options, but not much choice if you want a manual. Doesn't look like the op has come back though

The Tank looks great, some good Oz coverage of them. Didn't think they were available in the UK though?

Isn’t the Cummins something like $12-15k? And would still need loads of parts and adapting to fit in a Land Rover. A crate LS is I think around $5-6k. But tbh you’d just go to any junk yard and pick up a running 4.8 or 5.3 for $1000 if you are in the USA.

I had Rough Country shocks on my leader above and no complaints. But I used to run +2 ProComps on my coiler 88. I forget the exact model, got them from Llama4x4 iirc. They lasted well, never leaked. Did rust a bit, but not quickly. Only replaced because I eventually pulled the eye off the top of a rear one. Replaced with Britpart Celluar Dynamic. The Britpart handle way better with loads less roll. But ride quite a bit harsher.

Lift will depend on which springs, brand, spring rate and how saggy your current ones are. I'd suggest some good modern gas or twin tube shocks. If you move the upper mounts you can get a much longer shock and more flex too. Although you may wish to do some other supporting mods too. Not sure on brands these days, Heystee used to have the reputation, although I couldn't get on with them when I went to buy, so I bought from Rocky Mountain Spares. Biggest thing I'd say is, don't buy high spring rates unless you need the loading capacity, it'll ride rock hard and bouncy otherwise. Soft springs will give a good ride, but reduce how much you can haul without lots of suspension compression. Softer springs will give more body roll too. Really miss my leafer.....

Not sure how standard it is. Looks shiny and tidy for ex mil. Guessing those pics are of it in the U.K. as it doesn’t look much like Fl. It does look nice though. You’ll probably want to change the tyres too. Those “Security” remoulds aren’t great on road or off road. I think most NaD diesel Military 110’s have the 1.6:1 ratio transfer box. You may want to bear this in mind as it’ll give super short on road gearing and a low top speed due to gearing.

No idea why you’d want a turbo diesel if you are in North America. The only reason turbo diesel was popular in Europe was down to the fact we pay considerably more for fuel. The petrol (gas) V8 was better in every regard other than mpg. It’s not as if the diesel units are comparable to a Cummins 5.9 or a 6.6 Duramax. The diesels are unrefined, small displacement, noisy and down on power and performance. Don’t get me wrong. I have a Tdi Land Rover myself. For the U.K. it is sort of ok, but access to much more affordable fuel and I’d personally think you’d be utter mad to want to fit anything like a Tdi in it. As for suitable engines. Depends what you want to do with the vehicle at the end of the day and what you are planning on doing with the transmission and driveline. Land Rovers are not designed for huge Bhp. You could swap out the axles, gearbox and transfer case for non LR items, but by the time you’ve done this and swapped the engine. You’d have to ask why bother having a Land Rover if you have nothing really left of it? If you want to keep it "Land Rover" swapping in a 4.0 or 4.6 Rover V8 from a p38 Range Rover or a Discovery 1 or 2 should be fairly straight forward.

You really need to crawl under and take a look or maybe take a photo and post here. In theory I'd guess it probably would have had a drum equipped Salisbury axle, but it is possible that it has a basic Rover axle. As you just don't know what has been done to it in its lifetime. you might also want to check the front diff. It isn't unheard to find out people have fitted a Range Rover/Ninety 3.54:1 to only one axle, ignoring the fact a Series would be 4.75:1 as standard. Which then often results in breaking one diff or another.

https://www.flatdoguk.com/disco-2-std%2Fhd-1~456