Gassed'58

.............. They are bolts not studs and are 5/16 BSF ............... part number 217565

Regarding the battery a Series One only actually needs a low rated one, 55 AH comes to mind as standard fittment. A modern " tiddler " will be just fine but it will look totally out of place in the battery tray so personally I'd have a battery that fully fits and fills the battery tray. Have a black battery as they look more in keeping. As said do ensure that the terminals are orientated correctly to suit the leads as otherwise you'll end up replacing these too.

Exactly, mine fires on literally the touch of the starter and doesn't need any winding over at all before it fires up Lovely little engine.

If you have the engine set up to suit the clapped out exhaust then it stands to reason that it will need tuning to suit the new exhaust. You need to double check all of the settings and especially that of the mixture. Simple stuff before stripping carbs and such like.

Definetly too expensive, I go to my local commercial truck factors on the trading estate and get charged £50 for 25 litres. £21.52 for 5 litres is dalight robbery. I find GL5 ok after many years of use. Hope this helps

Sounds like this may be the problem !!! Anyway, the steering relay is meant to be stiff to turn by hand, even a fully rebuilt and well lubed one, it is a damper after all. Don't bother changing it as they don't clap out quickly and if ok a couple of weeks ago you are looking in the wrong area.

Sounds promising for my wallet then. So £60 / £70 ought to get me a tidy secondhand carb, maybe with manifolds included if lucky ? I will have a look on E'bay and see what comes up. Thanks for the reply. Lee.

I've been looking to do the same myself, good to hear they fit. Does anyone know what sort of money a carb plus manifolds go for ?

The seal is at the rear of the mainshaft and is housed in the main gearbox casing. As a result you need to remove the gearbox from the transfer box so the overdrive must be taken off. The layshaft bearings are best done in pairs since if one is clapped then the other will have taken some abuse too. With the box out I'd also do the output shaft seals front and rear as well, quick and cheap and superb access too. Good time to check the bearing preload on the transfer box at this time as the shims are already removed for seal replacement. The main 3/4 synchro will virtually fall out of the box when the front cover is removed so take the time to change the synchro clips while you are in there too. Better to take advantage of access while it is there. Not that I am trying to load you with work of course. Hope this helps.

I need them for my wife who is short in the leg department, she also has a gammy shoulder which makes getting in the vehicle awkward. You must remember to fold them up when going through the lanes etc otherwise they get bent, my wife knows all about that !!! Regarding the left and right, they are identical both sides, easy ! The rear one is different and has a semicircular tread and different mounting brackets. The difference between side and back is easy to spot.

...............Simple answer............Yes they will with no effort. The sill holes are ready to bolt up, just need to attach the cross brace to the chassis with a nut and bolt - drill one hole, simple. I had them on my SIII and then transfered them over to my SII......

Have you set the brake pedal height as per the book ? Have you set the free play correcly at the master cylinder ? These two items are the first you must check. Try setting all adjusters all the way up and see if you have a good pedal. Then try one click backed off and compare. Clamp brake ppes in turn - flexi ones and see how things change. Following that I'd have a look at the " Series 2 club " forum as there is a masive amount of brake related information there. ( I'm of to work now ).

Hi SootySport, the kit came this morning and looks great. Many thanks for supplying it. For anyone else interested the kit is as it looks in the picture and is a preassembled kit made by " Jaycar Elecronics " and saves a lot of faffing around. There is a large amount of info / data/ instructions included with it too !!! Hardly worth making yourself at this price. Just my thoughts. Anyway, thanks again mate, guess what I'm doing today whilst it is dry Gassed'58

Ok, just to finish this one off, I fitted a replacement Edis unit courtesy of the " scrappy " for a tenner and all is now good. Running really well on default timing of ten degrees Cannot wait to plug the @Jolt in tomorrow. So anyway, learn by my silliness and concentrate on the job in hand. !!

Hi Intergenspin, thanks for the heads up, will have a look. I have a kit coming from sooty already as it will save me faffing around getting the components together, incredibly busy at the moment, but I'll probably give this one a go out of curiosity on my other wagon , I like variety. Good to have recommendations. Cheers.

HI Mike, I'll gladly have one please. You have a message. Cheers.

Just blooming inconvenient, anyway, a valuable lesson for all, luckily it wasn't the Megajolt unit. !!!

Hi Steve, no injectors or original ECU I'm afraid, sorry I should have been more precise, I'm running a 2.25 petrol with a Megajolt waiting to go on the vehicle. I put the Edis unit on the vehicle to run on test at default 10 degree to prove the set up prior to connecting the Megajolt.

Hi Dave, sounds promising, hopefully it will be ok. Location is near Cardiff. Will persevere. Working 12 hr days untill Sunday so time to ponder on it.

Just fitted my Edis set up to test run prior to putting the Megajolt in circuit and made a boo boo...I wired it up with +12v and ground the wrong way round !!!! My question is, have I killed the unit or will it still work having done this ? I canot get the engine to start though this may be for some other reason. Hoping for an answer as I have'nt got another to swop out with. Thanks.

ThreeSheds, sorry to hear it went pop ! Sootysport, also interested in the controller, what sort of money are you talking ?

Ok, thats cleared some of the wool out of my head, thanks. Looks like a narrow band sensor is the way for me then. The scrappy will hopefully liberate something today that I can use as a mock up and I'll probably use a meter for a while untill I get round to ordering up something a bit more permanent. Not sure about leds vs panel meter yet, will have a look online. Dave W, megajolt already bought thanks anyway.

I've been looking into making a home made air fuel meter and have come across this on the web which gives a good basis http://www.redline.lt/magazine/spec-featur...e/article/17/1/ I did find a drawing using two of these linked together for even more leds in the display, cannot find it at the minute. Anyway, I'm running LPG on a 2.25 series 2 with a soon to be added Megajolt and think that this sort of disply in the cab would give me some usefull info to set things up / give piece of mind without going to garages or using rolling roads for set up. I read that a wideband Lambda sensor would be the best but having spent loads recently I was wondering if these sensors are available to to robbed from a car in a scrapyard ? If so, anyone know what cars they are fitted to ? If not, anyone done this with a narrowband sensor ? I'd be glad to hearyour experiences. Any advice generally is most welcome. Thanks.

Hello ThreeSheds, did you manage to get anywhere with this idea ? I have recently come across this thread and am interested in doing something like this for myself. Cheers.