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ThreeSheds

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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ThreeSheds last won the day on September 12 2018

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About ThreeSheds

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    Old Hand

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    Lumphanan, Royal Deeside, in a farm on a hill

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  1. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    Wockets ???
  2. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    Thanks Bowie69, yes - my fridge does have a voltage sensing switch-off, but to get that to work I have to make the rear power wockets on all the time - and I am not comfortable with that you see... In the D4 both the centre and rear sockets are controlled by a 40 amp relay that it very easy to get at so I was thinking that maybe I could just replace that. Thanks for that FF - it looks like a fascinating site which I will read when I have more time, but as I said above I am looking more for plug and play...
  3. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    Hello again... It's been a while, but now I am starting to look at non-permanent mods for car camping this summer, and I am looking to power a fridge from the middle/rear accessory socket. So what I need, in an ideal world, is to replace the original 40a relay that controls these sockets, with a: 12v 40a automotive latching relay with voltage sensing.... (???) It would: Fit in place of the existing relay. Stay on when the ignition (switched feed) goes off. Go off if the supply voltage drops below a set figure (usually 11.5v but up to 12v would probs be ok) I have had a look around on tinternet, but I'm not sure I am asking the right questions, so I thought I would seek the wisdom of the forum... Does such a thing exist or am I living in cloud-cuckoo land?
  4. ThreeSheds

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    Is it me, or is it that coils were far more reliable in the 70's? I drove Macpherson strut suspended cars for 30 years before I had a coil break, but in the last 15 years, every car I have owned has broken a coil at some time... I was told (perhaps somebody can confirm?) that the manufacturers used to shot-peen coil springs, but stopped because of profits (less cost in manufacture, and more replacement springs sold) Anyway, back to the topic at hand - IMHO air springs can be great if the whole system is well engineered. And I agree with Ratty43 about loading - driving a loaded (not overloaded) 109" with a trailer was a frightening and bone jarring experience, driving an RRC in similar circumstances was way better, but driving the D4 is in a different league all together! Air springs get my vote... Rog
  5. ThreeSheds

    The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread

    I am almost tempted by that... I am tempted by that...
  6. ThreeSheds

    14CUX HotWire - Ign input - Megajolt

    Because I could! Also - I never thought about the aircon pin Also - how much extra revs does the aircon pin give? If the pump is under load I am thinking very little - my system causes the tickover revs to be (about) 1500rpm, and the 14CUX attempts to hold that ( by messing with the air bypass valve) even if it's put under load... It's complicated, sure - but fun
  7. ThreeSheds

    14CUX HotWire - Ign input - Megajolt

    Ah yes! I forgot the zener! Sorry....
  8. ThreeSheds

    14CUX HotWire - Ign input - Megajolt

    From memory (ten years ago) the above circuit without the resistors is what I used, and it worked fine. Later I put a switch which isolated two of the coils, which fooled the 14CUX into thinking that the engine was running at half the revs it was, hence it speeded up the tickover to about 1500rpm, useful for when using an aircon compressor for blowing up tyres...
  9. ThreeSheds

    Welding chassis

    I would always advise people to disconnect the battery, but normally don't do it myself
  10. Starting to look the part...
  11. ThreeSheds

    trailer insurance

    spray on rust????
  12. ThreeSheds

    Refillable spray bottles

    I have the same - they do fall over, yes, but another problem I have is inapropriate spraying when I pick it up and catch the trigger....
  13. Good point... And in actual fact making it a fit might make it worse since if it did move, the bolts would be placed in shear?
  14. ThreeSheds

    Random musings on the D4

    Thoughts about the gearbox and the flappy paddle things.. The gearbox is the 8 speed auto and it has a problem that I like to call "the min-roundabout death roll". The scenario is always similar to this (the first time): I was approaching a min-roundabout, driving quite sedately, and there was a stream of traffic entering from the right and going straight on. As I got close, braking to maybe 5mph, the next car from my right indicated that he was turning left. This was an opportunity. There was a truck behind him, but I could make the gap ok... I take my foot off the brake and onto the throttle - slightly heavier than normal since I need to make the gap... and ... and ... The car rolls sedately out into the path of the truck ... NOTHING IS HAPPENING! Getting worried now I apply more throttle, and finally after about a second, the engine revs, the torque converter engages, and the flipping thing takes off like a scolded cat. By now the truck is having a great time on his air horns. Can't say as I blame him. The problem as I see it is this: Whereas with my TD5 auto in the same situation, the box would already be in 1st (of four) gear, and applying throttle instantly causes the engine to rev and hence it starts to pull, I think with the Disco 4, the car is probably still in 2nd or even 3rd at that point, and so the electronics (when they see a larger than normal throttle applied) decide to change down a gear or two. While this change is taking place, the engine is prevented from revving (that would stress the box internals) until the change is complete. Of course by the time everything is ready to go, I have realised that nothing is happening and automatically applied even more throttle. Now everything engages and 255bhp is released which launches the car, wheels squealing for the centre of the roundbout. So now to possible solutions... I have heard that there is a software update that goes a long way to solving it. Use sport mode. Pre-select a low gear the flappy paddle shifters. I haven't yet investigated the software fix and TBH I am not entirely sure from what I have read that it is worth it. (Has anyone gone down this route? Does it work or is it only a partial improvement?) Sport mode improves the situation, but there is still a delay, and I would need to predict before I get to the roundabout/junction etc that I might need since I wouldn't want to normally drive in sport mode.. Flappy paddle shifters - well they work, but IMHO, they are not really fit for purpose (if that purpose is normal highway driving) since by half way around the roundabout I find myself still in 1st gear, revving the nuts off it and not sure where the 'up' paddle is because the wheel is turned 1800 or more. Maybe one day I'll sort it, but for now I just wanted to vent a bit...
  15. Thinking overnight on this bumper... Looks like it will be coming off again You see, from memory I would say that the holes in the chassis are about 12mm, and that the holes in the bumper are slotted clearance for 10mm bolts (which is what the original bumper was fitted with). This means a lot of potential movement.... Good when trying to line things up but bad when considering that the bumper needs to take both ground impacts, and recovery loads. So my thinking is that I should open the slotted bumper holes a bit, mount the bumper using 12mm bolts (if I can get them through the chassis), and use thick washers. Then, once the position is good, the washers can be welded to the bumper, thus effectively locking it in one position. Extra work, but I'm in no hurry... My old RRC took 4 years to get back on the road, I don't think that this will take that long but <shrug> it takes what it takes...
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