Landy7

Thanks for the info. I went searching with your paint code and I think it might be BS381 298, olive drab. In the video they also mentioned 'olive drab', which is a bit darker then nato green. I would like to keep the chequer plates and wheel arches black, so I need to cover them all up perfectly if I want to use a spray gun, so a roller might be quicker..

It's time to paint the Land Rover! Currently it's sitting like this: http://oi67.tinypic.com/2u8bd47.jpg It's a mat nato green/olive color, but as you can see on the door, it had different shades of green in the past.. I was looking at this and found the dark olive with satin finish absolutely great, it still has the military look, but looks modern: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlKPGkrZcGQ Does anyone know that color? Or RAL code? Or even what brand and where to buy it from? Second, I've never painted a car.. I've seen people do it with rollers or air brush. I have a large compressor, so air brush could be used, but I believe that's more work since you really need to strip/cover everything. with a roller, you can just carefully paint the parts you want. Do I have to sand it down first? Thanks!

The black wire is still connected to the bulkhead so that's fine. I cannot find the black/green wire in the engine bay at the multiplugs.. Just to be sure, I will connect a new wire straight from the dash to the sender, if that works then it's the original wire, if it still doesn't work, then I will replace the sender.

I swapped the 2.5TD engine for a disco 200tdi in my 1988 - 110 soft top LHD (not driven for 6 months) but now the fuel gauge isn't working anymore, stays at empty. I searched for a solution on the forum and found out that I need to look for a black/green wire. I can find it at the fuel tank, I also checked it in the dash, but can't find it anywhere in the engine bay I tried to follow it from the tank but I get lost at the tail lights.. Anyone knows where it should be in the engine bay? Or is the sender stuck after 6 months of not driving?

My bad! I checked everything again and the small tube that goes from the FIP to the turbo got disconnected during the vacuum pump installation, reconnected it and power is back!

(Land Rover 110 - 1988) I swapped my 2.5TD engine for a 200tdi (disco), drove it for +/- 50km now and the extra power is real nice! I noticed that I lost brake power, it doesn't brake (stop) as good as with the 2.5TD engine, but I did nothing with the brakes, no leaks and flued level is OK. So all I could think was the brake vacuum pump.. I replaced it with the one from my 2.5TD engine (same part nr) and replaced the seals. I just did a test drive, braking is a lot better! But I noticed that the engine doesn't pull as much as before.. Is this normal behavior? You get more engine power when the brake vacuum pump is not so vacuum anymore?

The B+ terminal is connected to a 'battery splitter' because I have 2 batteries installed, so maybe that's why it's showing 0V .. I might have an old alternator that could still be working, I will try that today.

Bummer, it's a brand new one, I already contacted the supplier (lrdirect) but I need to ship the part, after they received it they will test the part and when it's indeed faulty, ship a new one, prox. 4 weeks.. I can't keep it in the garage for 4 weeks :/

allright, I extended the thin brown/yellow wire to the alternator (D+), when I turn the ignition key, the battery light is lit, but even when the engine is running, it stays lit I connected a voltage meter to the B+ terminal but nothing, 0V .. even at high rpm's, battery light in dash stays lit.. When I put the voltage meter on the D+ terminal, I get 2.5V, is that enough? What else can I try? It looks like it's a dead on arrival part..

Thanks guy's, makes sense! Will try that in the weekend, need to extend that thin cable..

No I did not connect the thin wire, can't remember I ever did that? I thought that was for the warning light or something?

For my 200tdi (disco engine) I ordered a new Britpart DA1196 alternator, it's a 100A one, I also installed new belt. Connected battery to the B+ terminal but battery is not charging. I connected a 'volt meter' to the B+ terminal when the engine was running but .. 0V .. Did I miss something?

Well I went out and bought a LJC100270 Valve Cap, but on return, it looks different and less higher then the ones that are installed now. In attachment you can see it fitted, left an old one and on the right the new cap, but it looks like it doesn't fit that well?? Also a picture of the broken one, and the new one, looks like the broken one is a bit higher and the new one starts to bow sooner?

Thanks for the input, I think we thought of the same thing at the same time because I think I've found the problem. See attachement, the valve on the left is OK and the valve on the right is the one with the large clearance, and you can see that the metal piece on top of the cap is a lot smaller on the right, broken. Will order a new one!

I'm doing a conversion from a 2.5TD to a disco 200tdi on my land rover 110. The 200tdi is on an engine stand and I'm doing some maintenance on it. I was going to check the valve clearances and .. 1 valve (output) has a clearance of 1.4 ! instead of the desired 0.20.. The rest of the valves needed minor tweaking.. I can adjust that one valve to 0.20mm, but I'm not an engine expert, is this bad? Damage to that valve?

Thanks guys! Very helpful! I will indeed use the hoses from the 2.5TD since adaptors are different.

I'm doing a conversion (land rover 110) from a 2.5TD to disco 200TDI. During the removal of the 200tdi out of the disco, I think they dropped the engine, because the oil filter housing was broken! I installed the oil filter housing from the 2.5td engine and everything looks the same, fits fine. But I was wondering if the oil pressure is the same for the 2.5td and 200tdi? The housing may seem the same but not the internals?

I'm swapping my 2.5TD for a 200tdi. I received the 200tdi but the guy who did the removal just cut all the wires from the connector.. So I'm looking for a connector that connects the wires from the engine to the connector on the bulkhead

Those are HD spings, thought you didn't want to go that route? I think the 'normal duty' ones are RKB101111 (from td5 and up)

Thank you!

I ordered the following items: 1x Driver side coil spring - front heavy duty (NRC9448) 1x Passenger side coil spring - front heavy duty (NRC9449) Is it because of the weight of the driver when driving alone that there are different coils for each side or due to the position of the engine/gearbox? I'm asking because I have a LHD, so I'm not sure if I need to place the driver side coil at the driver side or passenger side, since it's probably build for RHD