Landy7

I've secured the glow plug rail connector so it doesn't touch the steel fuel pipe and replaced the 60amp fuse. Result video cold start: It starts a bit better and the smoke clears after 5 seconds (before it was 10-20 seconds). I'm no puma expert, is this normal? I think it's best to check the glow plugs, still a chance that one of them (or more) are not working properly.

Well, I've found this topic : https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/84217-Puma-Glow-Plug-Error-Code I checked the 60AMP fuse were the glow plugs are connected to (according to that topic) and .. it is blown! I also checked the "Connector holder" in the engine bay that houses the red wire connection to the glow plugs, and it's also loose like in that topic. The connector once did short circuit with the steel diesel fuel line because I can see small 'burn' marks on both of them, so that shot the fuse I guess. That would mean that no power is going to the glow plugs right now.. Weird that the glow icon in the dash behaves normal? Doesn't it check the temperature? Or is just time based? I'm going to secure the connector holder and install a new 60amp fuse and see what gives. Can I just go into an automotive store and ask for a 60amp fuse or does it need to be a LR one?

Thanks for the tips, I will check the glow plug fuses and replace the glow plugs to be sure.

No I haven't.. I do not have a device to read fault codes and I don't like taking it to the dealer.. I've searched for an affordable device that can display codes and found this one: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ Looks like many people use it, not sure if it can display all codes? It's only 79$...

Hey, I have a Defender 110 with the 2.4 puma engine (2008). It starts tough on cold and smokes for about 10-15 seconds. The smoke is white/grey with a bit of blue. When the engine is warm, it starts right away without smoke. Also no loss of power. When driving, no smoke, no problems, no warning lights,.. The injectors have been tested and cleaned, no problems. Could it be the valve stem oil seals? When the car is parked, oil drips in the cylinder(s) and burned off on start? Video (it's a very windy day, but you'll get the picture):

Yes, I know, EAS 😋 I bought myself a P38 - 4.0 V8 Bosch - 1999. She has been sitting still for 4-5 years and I'm bringing her back to life cause she is too pretty to throw away! I have a Land Rover 110 next to it but no P38 experience. First time I towed it here and tested her, the EAS took a few minutes but after that it raised to normal and even the extended ride height worked! After that I parked her in the garage, disconnected battery etc, and the car putted itself on the lowest ride height, not sure why, could be my fault.. Anyhow, after replacing brake discs, pads, steering damper, track rod, drag link, .. I started the engine again after a month and waited until it would lift itself up but after a few minutes, still no go.. The EAS compressor was so hot that it took a break. After a few tries (letting the compressor cool off for 30min) it lifted up to the normal ride height! I drove around the block a little and tested the extended ride height but no go .. only the back would raise, not the front. I've parked it yesterday evening and I've just checked today and she is still on the normal ride height, so didn't drop overnight. A few questions.. - I don't think rebuilding the EAS valve block would help since it does not drop (leaks?) ? - Could it be the reservoir that's leaking and thus needing the compressor to work overtime ? - The seal in the compressor could be worn out thus not producing a lot of pressure? I'm thinking of disconnecting the output on the compressor and test the pressure.. Can I do that by hand? Put my finger on the output? Or do I need to buy some sort of pressure gauge? I think it would be a good idea to find the reservoir and look for leaks with some soapy water when the car is turned and the compressor is doing his thing. Some other ideas? 🙂

I bought myself a P38 - 1999 - 4.0 V8 but the battery is dead, it's a 12V - 110Ah - 680A that's currently installed. I don't have the owners manual and can't find the right specs for a replacement battery online. I'm not sure that the one's installed now, is an original spec, maybe a left over one from the previous owner.. In my local shop, online, I can specify my car, and it recommends me a 12V - 68Ah - 550A, not sure that's correct .. Anyone here knows which battery I should get?

Ok thanks, will disassemble it and take a look. There was no friction in diff lock and handbrake on, could take a hill without any problem :/ Difflock off and handbrake on, I cannot move the car ..

No, almost never touched the clutch! EDIT: The only thing I guess that could have happened, is that I've forgot to disengage the parking brake.. When the parking brake is on, I cannot get the car to move, obviously..., but when diff lock is on, I can drive the car with the parking brake on, is that normal behaviour? (I'm not an expert, but the parking brake is on the LT230 in my case I think, transmission brake?)

Well the gearbox and transfer box are a bit 'leaky', so I was thinking because they are hot, that's were the smoke/smell comes from, but it only happens when diff lock is engaged, that's a mystery for me.. I drove hours without diff lock, and no smell, all went perfect, and if I drive a few minutes with diff lock engaged, I get smoke in the cabin and burned oil smell..

I'm the proud owner of a 1988 Land Rover 110 with a 200tdi engine, LT77 gearbox and LT230 1.4 transferbox. 6 months ago, I've tested the diff lock by lifting one wheel and tried spinning it with diff lock engaged/disengaged, all went like it should, no problems there. Also the LT230 had been rebuilded, was a 1.6 before. I've never needed the diff lock, but last weekend we went to a 4x4 parcours (was super fun!) with a lot of mud and steep hills. When we arrived at the track, I've engaged the diff lock but remained in high gear and first gear. After a minute or so on the parcours, the cabin started to fill with 'smoke' and it smelled like burned oil.. I've let it cool off for a few minutes and turned the diff lock off. The rest of the parcours went great, without diff lock engaged. I engaged it again and after a minute, the 'smoke' and smell was back.. Can't really trace it, but the smoke comes from the floor, first row, gearbox?? I drove around the parcours for hours, without diff lock engaged, no smoke, no smell, everything went fine.. If it became a bit tricky, I engaged diff lock just for that specific hill and turned it back off after, that worked perfect. So, as an 4x4 amateur, I asked some other guy's if they had diff lock engaged and they all had diff lock engaged the whole time, never turned it off on the parcours.. But they were driving low gear, I drove high gear since I could easily do it all in first high gear. Any idea what's wrong?

You can use the same drop arm, but it's a bugger to swap it! Mine didn't came lose, had to grind it off.

Fixed! I checked all the connections and the small wire on the alternator, for the charge light, had no cable insulation at the end and was dirty, I cleaned it up and everything works perfect again. Added some insulaton to prevend it from happening again. Thanks guy's!

I checked the pulley but it was still very tightened so I assume that's not the problem. Will clean all the connections tomorrow.

Great tip! That could be it since I needed to swap the pulley over and was not sure on how hard to tighten.. Will check tomorrow!

Thanks, I already tightent the belt, same result. Will check the connections again.

I had a bit the same problem, braking power was very low, took the vacuum pump off and it was missing a gasket.. So I assume it was not 100% vacuum. Put a new gasket in place and fixed.

I changed my 2.5TD engine with a 200tdi. The alternator on that 200tdi looked a bit burned, so I just took it off before placing the 200tdi. I went for a britpart 100amp alternator, fitted it, but nothing.. Send him back and received the confirmation that it was a dead on arrival part and got my money back.. So I ordered a britpart 65amp, installed it and all fine.. When I started the engine, the alternator light went out immediately, and the light on my battery splitter lit up, all good! After a few weeks of driving, after starting the engine, the alternator light would only go out, if I revved the engine a bit, read that it was normal so all still good.. But week after week, I needed to rev more and more to make the alternator light go out, and if I was idleing before a stop light, the alternator light would come up again. Now, again a few weeks later, the alternator light doesn't lit up when turning the key and just flikkers very soft when driving .. the light on the battery splitters has the same, soft flikkering, so not enough power.. Should I stop buying Britpart stuff or can something else cause this? Bad earth?

I had some breaking issues, breaking power was low, I disconnected the vacuum pump, cleaned the surface, used new gaskets and breaking POWER was back!

Thanks Paul, 16x7 it is .. I'm not a tire expert as you've all read and when I look for black modular 16x7 I get wheels with an offset 8 and 11 .. I've read wat offset means but they advise to buy wheels with the same offset as the default ones. I have no idea what offset my current wheels have .. Is this something to worry about?

Thanks! 8" will be too wide I think? Stretching the tire.

This will be an easy question for some people but I can't find a definitive answer.. I have 2 sets of tires, BFG Mud and General Grabber TR, both are 235/85 R16. The mud's are on discovery 1 steel rims, bought the car with it. Now for the General Grabber's im looking for new rims. I was thinking about the 16x8 black modular, is this a good fit? Or better 16x7?

Found the problem .... We had the idea to disconnect the black/green wire from the sender unit and hold it to the chassis, to see if the fuel gauge would go all the way to full, to verify if the cable is still OK, but when we did that, the fuel gauge did not move, but the Parking brake light lit up So it was clear that there was some weird wiring.. Went into the booth and apparently we switched the connectors for parking brake and fuel gauge, they have almost the same colors and have the same layout FIXED!

I swapped my 2.5TD for a disco 200tdi some months ago, did it all myself and really learned a lot! A 300tdi is cheaper to find, but I didn't want to modify the chassis and some parts of the 2.5TD are the same on the 200tdi so I have some spares now. Got a Steve Parkers exhaust downpipe and the turbo from a 300tdi to fit it nicely.

Oh thanks! I thought olive drab was darker then nato green..