Jaroslav

I checked it this weekend and, indeed, the manifold to exhaust joint is leaking. You can't see any smoke but the hand feels puffs of air when the engine is working. Will fix.

Uh, no, I can't test this theory. If I remove the bulb, how will I know it's functioning properly? I better find the damn resistor.

Aha, I should fix it then, because if the warning light gets blown I'll be stuck on the road. I can probably test this theory by removing the warning bulb. Thanks for all replies, guys! /Jaroslav

No, it's a brand-new battery and I had the same problem with my old one. Unlikely, because the battery light doesn't come on back when the engine returns to idling.

What's the purpose of the Ignition Light Resistor in my 1987 110 2.5 N/A Diesel? I'm wondering if this resistor could be reason why the battery warning light doesn't come off by itself when I start the engine. Once I rev the engine up a little bit, the light disappears and the battery seems to be charging OK. I read somewhere that it means that the alternator is not excited properly when it is happening. It's not a big problem, but I'd rather fix it if I could. I am speculating that with this resistor blown (connected in parallel to the battery warning light), there might not be enough current to be coming through one of the alternator's circuits and it doesn't self excite. Doesn't the manual say that before investigating alternator problems one should check the battery warning light first? I would check this 100 Ohm resistor - if only I could find it on the truck! I've seen a picture that shows that it has to be under the dash board, on the right side (on my RHD vehicle). Is it supposed to be mounted somehow or simply burrowed among the harness wires?

I don't think it's coming from underneeth the vehicle, but I will definitely check my exhaust piping. Instead of lifting the roof top flap, is there something I could install in front windows that would deflect incoming air inside?

Hello all, I'm struggling with exhaust fumes getting inside the cabin of my canvas-top diesel 110. I've tried to drive with both back flap open or closed, but couldn't detect a big difference. The only thing that helped somewhat was (1) closing the back flap and (2) raising a portion of the canvas's front bead (above the windshield) to create an inflow of air when moving, which, in turn, creates extra pressure inside to keep the bad air out. Could someone share their experiences and ideas. Best Regards, /Jaroslav

Thanks! This is what I need. The web site is funny though: it lists part names and prices without any pictures, so you can only hope that you've ordered the right stuff.

Guys, The canvas top on my MOD 110 shows signs of aging. Although, the material itself is in an excellent shape, it's missing many straps, that seem to be simply disintegrating. I'm worried it will fly off one day on the road. The flex window is also broken. Replacing the whole top seems to be a silly idea given its cost and the overall good state of the top. I was wondering if there is a place on the internet where I could order a supply of khaky cotton straps (with the hardware) from? The color is probably not critical, as I could paint them, since the top has been painted several times anyway. Jaroslav

Well, I don't think the solar chargers are supposed to recharge your battery; their goal is to keep a charged battery charged. I read somewhere that any battery will eventually discharge naturally even when there is no load connected.

Well, I don't see any breather tube though, except maybe... there is a tube insert (not sure how it's called - funnel). Perhaps it got into a close contact with the rubber ring inside the cap. Anyway, I think now that it wasn't such a good idea to fill up to the cup. Next time I'll make sure there is enough fuel to top the tank only - just in the middle of the rubber hose that connect the tank to the outside opening, which won't be a big deal to replace should it ever rust out. /Jaroslav

No need to jump start anything... got myself a battery tester that shows voltage under a load. The battery was dead indeed. By the way, the solar trickle charger, I mentioned above, almost killed my other battery. I have an old minivan on my driveway; to prevent its battery from discharging I connected it to a trickle charger via a cigarette lighter socket. Trouble is that a couple months later the battery was dead. I think it was because the windshield was covered with snow most of the time. I figured the charger should have protection against draining battery when there is dark (like at night). Go figure. Anyway, I've returned the faulty charger and got myself another one (from another place and at half price). It looks awfully similar to the previous one... probably made in the same factory somewhere in China. I'm testing it in complete darkness on my marine battery now (which shouldn't get damaged when discharged completely); hopefully this one is better.

Hi there, I have a "hydraulic" question... I am having a trouble in explaining my observations. The last fall, after I placed my LR into the winter storage (in my unheated garage) I've topped the tank with diesel fuel (it reached the cap). It was suggested by somebody to me as a way of preventing moisture getting into the tank and rusting it from within. A couple of days ago I noticed a diesel fuel spill on the floor. My heart sunk because I thought the tank is rusty. However, I couldn't really locate the place of the leak. I've opened the tank and looked inside; it's still full, but the rubber tube that connects the tank to the outside is now empty, i.e. the level dropped and some of the fuel had disappeared. Then I remembered that I've been noticing slight fuel odor in my garage for the last couple of weeks. I was wondering if it could somehow got syphonned outside due to temperature changes? Could it be due to liquid volume changes as a result of temperature fluctuations? Is it reasonable to lose probably a couple of liters of fuel this way? I'm out of ideas :-( I live in Canada and it gets really cold in winter around here, although this winter hasn't been very cold. I am not sure, but it appears that the smell appeared only a couple of weeks ago when it got unusually warm (+15C). Regards, Jaroslav

How for Christ's sake, could you possibly clean it all so well? I've struggled while cleaning a small wiper motor, which I ended up submerging in turpentine completely. What were you spraying it with? /Jaroslav

Yep, I got myself a solar trickle battery charger (costs $30 around here + tax). /Jaroslav

Hi all, It's me again with an endless supply of silly questions :-) I've got a battery that seems to be empty: it doesn't turn the starter (but has enough charge to turn on the lights). I can only blame myself for killing it: when I just bought this 110, NA diesel, I kept starting the engine several times a day, but since I couldn't legally drive it (needed to pass the test first), I was never actually recharging the battery. Anyway, one day I discovered that the battery is no good. I put it on my micro-controlled charger for deep cycle marine batteries. The charger blinks its LEDs for a few hours and then declares the charge to be complete. Now, putting the battery back to the vehicle produces the same results - no cranking. I bought a battery tester. When connected to the battery contacts, the tester shows "green", i.e. the voltage level with no load is OK. But once I place the 100A load, the voltage drops to zero! The electrolyte levels and gravity are OK. I had two theories: either the battery is sulfated (has no capacity), or the charger (being a deep cycle one) is not suitable for car batteries, although I really can't see why. So, I borrowed an old unregulated car battery charger. When I connect it to the battery and set it to 10A, I can see the voltage climbing steadily: I didn't have the nerve to watch it cross the 15.8V mark, since I was afraid of frying the battery. Is this battery dead for all intents and purposes? Cheers, /Jaroslav

Sorry, what does that mean - "threadlocked"?

Hi all, whenever I unscrew a bolt or remove a nut I put some grease on the thread before screwing it back. I do it because I want to protect them against rust and also make the job of undoing them easier in the future. At some point I was using the lithium grease, but then I got concerned that it could actually get hardened, especially when subjected to heat. So, now I'm using the regular ball-bearing petroleum-based grease. I was wondering if I'm alone greasing bolt and nuts and is there anything wrong with that? Is there some special compound that was designed specifically for that purpose? Thanks in advance, /Jaroslav

Unfortunately, being unaware of the intricacies of the diff flange nut replacement I removed the nut when I was investigating the clunk in my transmission some time ago. It took me a lot of effort to remove it, so I tried to put a comparable effort when I was putting it back. Now, is there any way to set the pinion bearings back to the correct preload? Provided I didn't overtighten the collapsible spacer, can't I just remove it and try to tighten it till the required resistance to rotation is achieved? As I understand it, the spec applies to the bearings only; since I have a complete diff, can't I try to measure the resistance to rotation on the pinion free play? Not sure if I'm making any sense here. Jaroslav

Yes. It makes a clunk whenever engine's speed doesn't match that of the wheels: if I'm not reeeaaaly careful in releasing the clutch or when I drop the gas pedal so that the vehicle "runs" into the engine. It feels like there is a lot of slack somewhere in transmission, but the clunk is definitely coming from somewhere in the back. When I was replacing the U-joint in the drive shaft - the one that is attached to the parking break side, I do remember trying to see if the drive shafts wobbles. I think it was rock solid, but I'll the do the PTO check anyway. BTW, would the clunk be present if I merely depressed the clutch (to let the transmission rotate freely) and depressed the brakes pedal? I would assume that a clunk due to worn a-frame bushings would be present (but it doesn't happen on my truck). /Jaroslav

Thanks a lot, Colin! I'll punch it as soon as I come home. You've got a very nice web-site. I'm gonna read it all. BTW, what kind of grease is that? The WSM refers to some Ragostine Listate (NLGI-2 Lithium Grease?). We don't have it here in Canada. But, I've got plenty of Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease. I don't think it's lithium-based, but the manufacturer says that it outlasts "conventional lithium grease" two times over. It also says that it repels water, is wash-proof and was specifically designed for agricultural use (with infrequent service periods). Would it do here? On the same topic - the wheel bearings are supposed to be oiled with Shell Turbo 41 oil - I figured it would be regular compressor oil, right? /Jaroslav

Hi guys, I'm trying to refurbish the wiper motor of my 110, 1987. I took the motor off the vehicle and took it all apart, except for two last parts: the drive gear (7) doesn't come off the gear box, even though I removed the gear shaft retaining washer and circlip (6); see the pic below. There is something that holds the gear shaft and doesn't let it come off; there is only a small free-play of a few mm. Could it be the dished washer (8)? Although I'm not sure how it could it possibly hold anything Any ideas before I give up on leaving it dirty (or smash it in a rage attack). /Jaroslav

Hi everybody, The windshield wipers on my 1987 ex MOD 110 seem to be very slow. They do work, but very-very slowly. I took the motor off and I'm going to overhaul it (to the best of my abilities). But I suspect that the problem is also with other rusty parts as the vehicle hasn't been driven a lot lately (I just bought it). I looked at the parts diagram... it seems that I will need to take the whole dash board apart just to get there to the parts :-( I think I'll need to take the wheel boxes (that convert cable movements into wiper swings), cable and tubes apart and lube them well. So my questions are: how do I get there? Is it enough to lift the upper strip of the dash board trim? my WSM says that I need "Ragosine Listate Grease" to lubricate the gear wheel teeth of the Wiper Motor. What the heck is that? Will my Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease do? it also says "Use Shell Turbo 41 oil sparingly to lubricate the bearing bushes...". Any ideas what can I replace this oil with? can I lubricate the wiper cable using the same graphite lubricant I use for bicycle chains? Thanks in advance for any help. /Jaroslav

Am I reading it correctly - you bought it without a test-drive? Where are you from? Here in Canada they'd let you drive the vehicle before you're buying it - most of the time in sales person's presence, but if you look respectable enough, the dealer might even give you the keys to have the vehicle overnight. /Jaroslav

Guys, What the heck is this "a-frame bushing"? Could somebody please post a picture? I have the same "clunk problem". How can I check if the a-frame bushings are to blame? Thanks, /Jaroslav