isbjorn

hi. The rear hub on this defender does not look like they normally do. Is it just a hub cap thing or why is it so square and without the normal rubber top? Its a 1999 td5 110 def standard. Thanks

Ok. Will do. Still a bit strange that its only every xx time I start... thanks for the tips.

Hi. Wanted to ask a quick question. About once a week when I start my 96 disco it doesn't behave properly. After ignition it stays on 1000 rpm instead of falling down to 500ish. When driving I can get it lower by slowing down on hi gear, but on idle its always over 1000. Then after a short while it starts reving up and down, up and down. From maybe 1000 to 2000 and back. Over and over for ever. Restarting the engine works sometimes, but not always. Last time I just ignored it and drove on the hi-way for 1 hr, it then went back to normal. Ive disconnected the MAF, and that didn't help. The v8s are not my strong side. Any tips? thanks

Well. Since the new one was broken and the old one didn't work. I moved some parts around and ended up with a semi new starter that works grate. I was also a bit more careful with the torque this time.

Not sure. Im guessing I tighten it to hard... It was super stuck when I removed the old one and required a lot of force. When installing the new one I just some muscle, but not nothing extra ordinary.... Apparently I was wrong. Anyone got the torqnumbers for it? The lower bolt hole also got a crack, but I'm guessing thats from the vibrations due to the top part being broken...

Problem solved. Removed it and it was quite obvious....

Well, the new one is a LRT00169 = 9 teeth, and the old one got the same. If the new starter isn't miss labeled they should be the same. And the body is exactly the same. Manual gearbox.

Is there any need to adjust the starter or check the clearance to the flywheel?

Well. It really sounds like its the starter making those horrible noises. Its only while cranking, and long as I'm holding the key in starting mode. Is there any way I could have mounted the starter wrong?

Hmm, There is a new quite nasty hard metallic grinding? sound when turning the key. Only until the engine starts. Maybe around around 1 second. Is that normal? Its a remanufactured Bosch starter. Thanks for any thoughts.

Hi. Thanks for the tip. Didn't help thou. Ended up removing all the electric cables going to the servo box as well as the Fuse. That stopped the whole ABS thing form happening. And no ABS warning light. And no ABS

I just replaced the starter. That solved everything. Thanks for the help.

Well, now its dead. Clicks but can't rotate the engine, no sound what so ever. Ordered a new starter so we will se if that helps. Always wait until its to late is my new motto! Cheers

Hi. I got this problem with the ABS kicking in when I'm doing my first brake after starting the car. It only happens maybe 1/10 times. I then have to pump 3-4 times to get any braking power to talk about. Its just making classic ABS noise and vibrations in the brake pedal and a very very weak braking power. I then removed the ABS 30 amp fuse and thought that was that. But yesterday starting the car and pulling out in to a slope. The brakes hardly worked at all. It just made a tjunk, tjunk, tjunk and the pedals stopped quite hi up. It was a lot of resistance in the pedal but pushing it hard didn't help much. I tried to pump but had to restart the car, which didn't help, then suddenly it was back to normal again. Quite scary. It has also happened some times after driving a while... Ive bleed the system and the brake fluid is new and fresh. What is the next step? Its not loosing any fluid what I can se, unless its a super slow leak. (also got this squeaking noise when driving with probably is connected to the front brakes, maybe unrelated, got new wheel bearings all around) Super thanks for any advice.

Well. Brand new batteries, and the earth points should be just fine. I have to dubble check. Still don´t make sense since its very very unconsistanst. Just got a new fault as well. The key refuse to rotate when trying to start him... Also quite random. Anyway. I will investigate further and let you know what i find.

Shouldn't that give a starter problem quite often. And not only 1s every 3 days or so? And the starter might be worn out, but why would that only show when the car has been running and is warm

Hi. Ive got a 96 Disco 1 V8 ES. And it normally starts directly. But when its a bit warm or quite randomly it takes a bit more time (feel like its getting worse). It might take anything from 2-7 sec to get the engine running. It sound like the starter cranks the engine very very slow and by holding the key for a long time it finally starts cranking faster and then starts. Then it runs perfectly. I read about the spider problems and it sounds probable, but I'm not sure if the slow cranking can actually be a symptom of that? If so I can just get the by-pass thingy. Just wanted to be sure first. It got new fresh batteries and the connections look good. Cheers and thanks from switzerland.

So we can safely assume there will be coming more to the market in the future.. How about the price picture. I guess they get sold by date or milages, whatever comes first. Found one 10 000 miles for 7 grand.. Sounds quite fair to me. What do you recon?

Hi. Im wanting to buy a 130, 300tdi ambulance. But I wanted to check with you guys how hard they are to come by. There is 2 nice ones for sale right now, but I would rather wait a year before buying (got some other projects to finish first).. But I can't remember seeing them for sale very often. Do you recon there will be more for sale or has the army already sold all of theirs? And what would a decent price be? Cheers

Well, Thats the thing. I have been going over the frame and its all in good condition. Can´t find anywhere as bad as this, or remotely close to it. The truck is in good condition, full size intercooler and what have you not. Its just a prime fine example of a healthy 200tdi converted OneTen. So Yes, I will keep it. I could of course swap for a galv frame. I recon it would cost 3000 GBP all included (ink install and some bits and pieces). But since the rest of the frame looks nice, and its a lot of money. I rather repair it. I don't have the skills myself, but I will check with a local garage. Thanks for all the inputs and I¨ll keep all the advices in mind when deciding. Cheers

Hi. Ive got a a bit of rust on my Hi-cap frame and I just want you opinion if you think its possibly to simple weld it, or what should I do? The rest of the frame is in good condition, its only these two spots, by the rear bumper rubber thingies.. Thanks. Left side Right side

Fantastic. Many thanks.

Come one. Someone must be able to just bring a ruler out to there truck in the evening.. Just the height from tailgate to roof would do.. Please

Hi. Can anyone be a saver and quickly/ruffly do a sketch measurements of the hoop sticks for a canvas back on a 110 HCPU... They cost an arm and a leg so I figure I will make my own. But I dont know the height, the radius and the incline. Or possibly take a photo straight from the back without the canvas (and take a height measurement of a hoop). Then I can copy it (in the computer) and make a drawing from that. send i to "act[A]norly.com" Please Something like this is what I need to build.

Do I have to empty the transferbox or can swap the gasket without?